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I think they are marked on the side with an M or L.  Because it's easy to mix them up.

Just made my day

Love it, cool faceplate looking all 3D

Nice! Get a scrap enclosure and then make a file where you can test different settings all in one or two setups. Usually you can assign settings to a color in your file. So mark 1 is blue, and you make the settings for blue 20p,50s, next mark is green, 30p, 50s, etc.

Sometimes makerspaces have a sheet where people can post their settings for different materials. Might save you some time. If they don't have that, it can buy you some cred  to set one up.

Fwiw the laser I used to use was similar specs and pretty much 50-60% speed and 30-40% power was about right in most cases. I generally err on the conservative side and run multiple passes if in doubt.

Definitely try some acrylic etching and cutting.

None here either, beautiful stuff!

snip... I figured if we had some of these and made hole for 1290A,B,BB,125B etch then you just need to tell the software the coordinates of each template hole. Not sure if this makes sense or not as I and visualising it in my head. Which can be dangerous.

That is exactly what I meant when referring to "offsets" - not sure if the software supports it or makes it intuitive though.  But, failing software support, you should be able to set your zero manually for each cutout and probably be close enough.  I like your thinking, dangerous or not.

I tried that masking tape thing too with similar results.  Unfortunately, you are basically hardening the glue instead of burning it off.  And you can burn it off, but my experience was the tape caught on fire at the higher power/slower feed settings.  Which is all kinds of fun in itself but best avoided imho. 

One thing I didn't try, but intended to, was "masking frisket paper" which is used in airbrushing and typically has a lower tack strength.  It might be worth sticking it to a piece of something flat like glass, etch it, and then trying to use it as a reusable spray paint mask on an enclosure.

I went through this a while back on the big laser I used to have access to and made acrylic locating jigs, cut on the laser.

You can't cut acrylic on this but cardboard should work.

I'd build a little tray that fits relatively snug to the perimeter of the frame/base.
Using the cardboard cutout idea, you could cut out interchangeable pieces that fit your tray for different enclosures.

Alternatively you could put in offsets and place your cutouts and program your etches  accordingly, maybe even fit them all on one sheet.

So cool to see these working, wish I'd had the time and money to try them.

Interested to see how they do with filled vectors/raster etching.

Cool builds!  I like the pewter wrinkle finish. Kind of a throwback look but with a modern 1590a sans serif spin.

Have to laugh at this thread because I just yesterday finished an npn smd tonebender layout. I also did one variant with smd and npn germs. No mojo and submojo.

But also smiling because of the lone smd resistor on the switch pcb.

Totally love it. Had a small home built wah shell on the to do list forever. Very inspiring.

Try using isopropyl as a lube when drilling aluminum- I got that tip here somewhere, it works great

I have had the same experience with the tayda 4558 and tL072s, but fwiw I use the smd versions.  I had a number of TL072s that were simply bad- I think I bought 10-20 and after 4 were doa, I threw out the rest - likely an ESD issue on that particular batch.

The 4558s worked, but sounded dramatically different than the ones I got from mouser/digikey.  My first batch were from Tayda, and I figured I just didn't like the 4558s in my builds.  Once I got them elsewhere, I was pleasantly surprised.

I think they buy B stock when they can and (most) people, who aren't intentionally overdriving them, probably wouldn't notice any difference.

Fwiw There are at least a few Linux distros that are aimed at cnc. I haven't looked in a while, but most should be better than what ships as oem. I'd check for one that is USB drive based so you don't have partition any hard drives, etc.

Might also be worth swapping the controller pcb.

Sweet build

Such a situation would've caused some havoc for just about anyone.

But you did a great job, and even cooler, you were able to troubleshoot your miswire successfully.

I probably would've drilled a new hole for the dc jack and found a way to plug the original hole (or not).  The stomp hole is placed a little high too.

Anyway, you're probably already thinking about the next 3 projects...!

Cool build!  Neat idea with the paint.