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it DID work fine before i put in the LED.

ill pull it out again and see. I was having a problem with a huge buzz - but i realized it was nt grounded (sittign on the carpet outside the enclosure) when I connected the grunds with a temporaty wire - perfect.

I assume that once its in the enclosure it will be fine.

The led lights up btw... But no sound

I'll check again tonight.... thanks

pretty sure I had it right, but .....

B

Thanks I did that and now there,is no sound at all.  Bypass works, but no fuzz.

Hey all

Can I get some advice on how to add an led to a battery powered positive ground mangler? I'm using some ge transistors from small bear ..I,don't want a road rage board in this.

I found the wiring diagram on the mangler project page, but its left me a bit confused :  the diagram shows the black lead from the battery going to the flat side of the led and the round side then going to the footswitch (top left pole).   Where does the 9v power wire to the pcb connect?

Thanks

Barry

I am looking at the BOM for the green bean and it refers to a 20kW pot.

what the heck is a W pot?

The first pic was an error - trying to past in thegraphic.

I used the small square poly caps in the appropriate value - 100 n and 50n as required (I used 0.1 uf and 0.05 uf) for these spots on the board.

I am going to check the orientation of the elctrolytic caps I used as well, and then go over the board for solder birdges / errors.  

I may post a photo tonight.

My snarkdoodle build is not working. I am startign to debug, and have a question:

I use radial caps rather than axial and use the middle pads as shown in the pic below.

is this correct?

Thanks

Can I ask one last question please - the switch I have is on-off-on.

Will that worjk or does it need to be on-on (two throw).

i think I might have bought the wrong switch.

Thanks

The schematic is in the build document and clearly shows that the boost switch is the only connection of the gain pot.

The forum is here to help if you need to know how to make a mod or don't understand a portion of the schematic. Even the most experienced folks here have to ask questions.




Thanks, yeah I should have asked. Actually I'm not well versed on schematic reading, but have built lots of effects and several amps using layouts. I guess that maybe on future instructions  for the WHRL snarkdoodle Brian could change the word 'omit' to 'jumper pads 1+2' . It might just save some poor fool from making the same mistake as me...or am I the only one thats done this

So I connect pads onea nd two on the PCB with a jumper wire if I want to omit the switch?


thanks

Thanks.

I'll hold off on it until I get a tube amp.  I am thinking of building one of the kits from modkits for teh 2w tube amp, or there is a small Vox tube amp that looks pretty good, or the Litle Night Train Head (run into the Pathfinder as a cabinet).

Barry

A bit confused about the wiring to the Raod Rage 

Ive attached an image with my question:



thanks for the help.

I was reading the build documents for the Rangemaster and it says its not recommended for solid state amps, like my Vox.  Is there any impact on the sound when using this pedal for solid state? IS there any treble boost or is its goingt o end up a volume boost (I have the Thunderpuss for that purpose).

in an ideal world (and a deeper wallet) I'd have a tube amp, but I don't.

to build, or not to build? That is my question.

Barry

...it's a Big Muff run through a David Gilmour.

Madbean  - when is the David Gilmour pedal comng out?  can't be that hard to design a pcb to mek us all sound liek him, can it?