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If you use lumberg input jacks and a smaller 9v jack, you shouldn't have any problems. The jacks will let you drop the board lower than normal jacks.

Those were out of stock, so I've got regular open jacks and a small dc jack.
Only options I have other than spending a lot of time on desoldering is a spacer or a different box, I've already got the spacer half made.

Make it happen. That's what diy is all about!


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I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you are not going to be able to fit it in a 1590A as you have built it. You need to use low profile Electrolytic caps like the ones linked to the Mouser cart in the build doc. It appears that you have used 11mm standard electros here. That size will not work for any 1590A build (the tallest cap you can fit is 7mm).

This is partly a failure on my end. I generally specify "low profile" electros in the Shopping List but I did not in the IMP doc b/c I linked to the ones I use for 1590A builds. I should have done both of these things to ensure there was no confusion.

So, there are a couple of options. You could go with what you've got and put it in a 1590A Tall enclosure like this
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/small-bear-tall-a-size/

Or replace the 11m caps with 5mm ones. If you want, I can send you the caps you need to replace. I should have enough.

I just noticed that was going to be an issue, while I was ordering I was thinking it might need low profiles and saw them in the example pics.

Looking more like it will need about a 1/4 inch/5-6mm riser even then. I'll work it out.
I think I can make it work by moving the drill holes for IN/OUT/DC up a mm or so and create a spacer for the backplate.
Did you see my post asking if I can use the bean on my greenbean? I want to use it as a literal name since the box is green and well the bean. I'd just need a PSD of the bean itself if you have one.

If you use lumberg input jacks and a smaller 9v jack, you shouldn't have any problems. The jacks will let you drop the board lower than normal jacks.

Nice fuzz, it's great for bass too. When are you building a fuzz factory? That thing is chaos.


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I built a fuzz factory last year, Dan (jjjimi84) painted me an enclosure with Roger from American Dad. It's a wild one for sure. I'm getting a new bass so I'm gonna try this out on it as well. I'm also gonna do some bass pedals soon too.

Now you're speaking my language. My favorite fuzz for bass is a green Russian. Never left my board for the few years I was playing in bars. Sounded great for the sabbath song paranoid.


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Nice fuzz, it's great for bass too. When are you building a fuzz factory? That thing is chaos.


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I've been eyeballing it for years.


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Very nice. That's a great sounding pedal.

Hmm... I've never had issues like that and I just eyeball the measurements. It's typically rock solid after a couple days. I do know that it cures better in warmer temperatures.  Are you working in a warm environment?

Nothing new, same I always work in. It's about 70 in the house. I ran out, so this is the replacement, it may be a bad batch or something.


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I use enviro as well. I'm not crazy about the latest enviro lite, it keeps pulling away from the decal underneath. I think I'm going to go back to parks glaze.


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I highly recommend using a heat gun after your initial pour and take into consideration the ambient temperature that your project is curing in. It may take a lot longer to cure if it isn't within the specs written on the data sheet.

This


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Lots of YouTube videos.


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Very nice man. I must have watched the videos and read over everything about 100 times. It's a great pedal.


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Nice! Cost wise, how does it compare to just buying a premade one like this for example?


https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/LittleIMP--whirlwind-little-imp-lo-z-xlr-to-hi-z-1-4-inch-inline-impedance-matcher


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Damn, sometimes I wish I wasn't vegetarian. That looks amazing.


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I would buy that and all the other ones cause that's what we do.



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Nice


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