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I bought corona virus stocks companies developing and "cure" but more importantly the testing kits. CODX so far is skyrocketing. If you want in, now is the time. Just saying, I've doubled my money and then some.


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Have you checked your components for correct values and polarities? Have you reflowed all of your solder joints?

Too bad it doesn't sound as you'd like, but regardless of the circuit, that's a super neat hidden LED- I totally wouldn't know it's there without the gut-shot!

Thanks, I have been doing all of my builds this way for a couple of years now, I think it looks unique. I learned it from Juan Solo I think.

what don't you like about it? I built a BYOC rangemaster as one of my first builds and love mine. I have experimented with various germanium transistor gains, but I think having the frequency toggle switch gives it more versatility with different guitars. What amp are you running thru? It looks good, I would rock it!

I have build the madbean rangemaster and the naga Vyper on vero, they both sound great. I need to explore a higher gain tranny for this one.

This is the last of my rangemaster builds. I started it about the same type as the vyper, before I ordered the Madbean board. It's my least favorite sounding so far.



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Those are awesome looking. Your style is really evolving, I like the looks.


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That is very kind of you to notice I feel like every 2 or 3 years I make a bit of a leap in design and execution. It just goes to show everyone can do better no matter what level one is at! Hopefully that does not come off as egotistic.

No, not at all. I really like that you are still branching out.


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Those are awesome looking. Your style is really evolving, I like the looks.


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XD I am just imagining poor Brian filling up all the future orders of the sales thinking what the f**k did I just do -_-

Bwahahahaha you can't stop us!


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Did I miss the sale?

No, that January sale will drop any day now.


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Just finished up a Cornish Duplex for a woodworking friend of mine. He digs llamas and goes by that name online so we added it into the graphic. Never heard of this stuff before and looking up the price on the real deal.... Those prices are silly.

I went with Aion pcb's. Solid boards, not that I've got much experience with them but the spacing is good and the build doc is laid out nicely.









I think it turned out pretty good. The G2 is weird as hell for being a muff clone. It's got a ton of low end, very fat, and below unity. I did some digging and it seems like the G2 just is a quiet circuit. Here's the write-up in the Big Muff bible. www.kitrae.net/music/Music_Muff%20Inspired%20Pedals%20and%20Clones.html#G2

"It is very quiet, even with the gain maxed. It has a similar quality to a Tube Driver at full gain. It sounds great with slightly dirty amps. The only drawback that I have found with clean amps is that even at maximum sustain, the gain is not very high. Since I prefer slightly more sustain for leads, I often boost the gain of my Big Muffs with a driver pedal or compressor, so it is not really an issue."

We weren't sure of the effect order so I added in a toggle. It's definitely G2->SS3 though. The other way around is flub central, way too much low end on that G2. Aion's build doc even has a suggested mod section to help take the mud out. I ended up adding in an LPB-1 to get it back to unity. By itself, I don't much care for it to be honest but as a slightly dirty boost for the SS3, it's killer. Great sounding distortion that cleans up and responds to picking very well.

Phwoar! These graphics look really impressive dude

Thanks, man! I appreciate it.

Very cool man. Someone here was selling boards too. I really like the combo. Seems like the G2 is a hybrid muff / overdrive if i am remembering right, that may be the SS2.


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Load all resistors and diodes, snip.
Load all electrolytics, snip.
Load all film caps snip.
Load all transistors and sockets, whatever is left, snip.
Solder everything in one go.

Meh, it works for me.

How do you keep everything in place before turning it over to solder?


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After


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I prefer Thonk over Synthcube. I've ordered two big ticket kits from synthcube, and both times, there were shipping screw ups. Thonk are much more reliable, IME.

My experience also.

I've never ordered whole kits, just parts.

I think maybe clear up-close pictures of both sides of the board along with voltages on your pt2399s. If you can record a small bit of what you're talking about, that may help. Reflow all of your solder joints and make sure all of your values and polarities are right.

This^^^



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I measured the voltages at the pt2399:
1 - 5.0V
2 - 2.53V
3 - 0V
4 - 0V
6 - 2.5V

A  pt2399 has 16 pins


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