Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Remember all the really, really stupid shit you said and did as a teenager? All the cringey clothing you thought was absolutely trendy and hip?
Imagine if you grew up these days, and both photo and video of all of that would live in the Internet forever. We're lucky. Only our mates remember that stuff, and we can claim they're just remembering things wrongly.
Right? I get enough random instant replays upstairs without zucky's help. Glad I'm rid of that place, all the same…If an egg yolk is cooked all the way through, I don't even want itYolk, yes; white, no. This? HELL no:
Thanks for the kind words guys!Love the artwork and your nomenclature for the circuit. How'd you print the faceplate? Separate prints or do you have a dual extruder?
Neither actually. I have an Ender 3, so nothing to fancy. There is a feature in Acura called pause at height (under modify g-code). Tell it what level to pause at (by checking the preview) and to keep the nozzle warm while it’s paused and you can just switch out the filament for a different color.
It takes a little practice and usually there is a noticeable artifact when it starts printing again (look at the e in tone), but it’s a very cool effect.
I usually aim for a three layer base and three layers with the color, depending on how much there is.
You also need to push all the excess of the first color out before you start the print again.Sharp, very cool art work! How are you attaching it to the enclosure?
dave
I just use the nuts from the switch and pots to hold it in place. I’d find a better solution but since these are just for me I’m not worried about it.
As far as the artwork, I actually found it on thingiverse, which is a cool resource for open source 3d printer designs.
The Trident in the middle is a national symbol for Ukraine btw, and the design is very similar to a lot of their folk art.
Nice salvage! JB Weld is good stuff. Often when I do a fill and redrill job I find it necessary to do an additional skim coat of JB Weld using a razor blade as a trowel.
Is that gray primer or paint in the last pic? I like that color.
It was actually a two part process. I backfilled the top row initially and after that cured, I then did a front fill with an old credit card swipe. The front was sanded afterwards. I drilled a larger LED hole next to the center footswitch but it was out of line so I filled all of those and did the little 3mm holes instead.
What I did do, was fill the little gaps around the edges with superglue and then sanded that flat.
The paint in the picture is my usual paint - black etching primer - that looked grey in whatever light I took the photo in. It got a light sand of 800 wet/dry to get rid of all those little bumps over the top. The sticker goes on after that and it gets 3 coats of Upol Clear to finish.Quoteonly those transistors would feel better soldered than in sockets. It will bring in time transient resistance (mostly for oxidation and mechanical shocks during handling) and so worse sound - noise, distortion. My opinion...
Any empirical evidence for that? I can see them having less possible movement when soldered, but the other stuff....
