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Well.... I should have went with my gut instinct and put this in a 1590bb. And use REAL  shielded wire.....
But no, I had to struggle and strife and fit it in a 125b.

Well, it works and it's a pretty heavy fuzz. Does not like my old 1967 p-90's, tho: hums like a mofo. Well, they hum a bit anyway, with any dirt pedal.



I've started painting my enclosures instead of buying them painted already.  For the price of paying for the pre-painted enclosure, I can buy a can and paint 10.

Link to demo thread....
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=10773.0


I need to just throw the damn stranded ribbon cable in the trash..... Solid core is really the way to go.


This thing is way too much fuzz for my style.... But I climb mountains just to get to the top, not because there's anything at the top I want.

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[DAMMIT.]

Spent 3 hours trying to stuff a board into a 125b  that's normally fitted into a 1590bb, struggling with wiring (I suck at wiring), and after routing everything over/under/through/around........the cheap plastic jack I got from tayda stripped out at the threads.

Stopped myself from throwing the pedal across the room, and decided to vent here, instead.


$#%$#$%&*.





That is all.

Wait, that's NOT all....

Got that crappy jack out, soldered in a good one, got everything done......

Bad pot. audio goes in and out when the pot shaft is jiggled. dammit.

but wait....wait......

bad footswitch. just took it out of the tayda bag, untouched until now. all soldered in. audio goes in and out with every stomp or jiggle.

no, cant be. my luck cant be that bad.... check the wires, solder joints...rule everything out.

yup, bad switch.


DAMMIT.

with the new job, i have so little precious time for things, and  i feel robbed of my time, even more than the money for the crap components.

and there aint no refund for time.

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I cant, for the life of me, figure out how to set the stop on this damn switch so that it give four throws instead of 12. do i need to open it up?

I'm a moron. I'm sure it's right there in front of my face and obvious, but i cant figure it out.

Here's yet another demo, no processing, just a Zoom Q2HD and amp. Dr Z Maz 18 set clean and PRS with Lollar Imperials.
I just built it with stock "Burst" values.
Noticed that wire routing is very important on this circuit. Also shielding. It will whine when cranked unless input and output are separated and shielded.

All in all, it's pretty organic sounding. And that's my thing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzCF2FhLByQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Just throwing this out there in case anyone does an etched version....
I tried fitting up a black inductor from a vox V847, and the active pads (the ones that have traces to the rest of the circuit) on the etched version wont line up with the active lugs from the inductor. The inductor has them caddy-corner, but the pads and traces on the etched pcb layout only connect to the front lugs, so one lug gets no connection. I dont know if it's just a funky inductor they use, or what.

But, hey, that's why i have  whipples and fasels ....

(after my last fiasco/fail on the original weener, i thought I'd etch this one, so i dont have feel like a failure AND have to look at a nice, professionaly-made PCB just sitting there, laughing at me.)

Since Jimmybjj posted a pic of some new ink , I thought maybe some other might have some nice ink to show off.

I've got a couple, myself. I'm a firm believer in only getting something meaningful, so I dont perasonally do  flash or filler. that being said.....


Done by my kid's Godfather, Mark Mahoney of Shamrock Social Club.

and this one is my fiance:
.

Is it feasible to make a tonestack with a blend pot, without losing too much signal?
I know the BMP tonestack pulls some signal out of the circuit, so is there a way to split the signal before the stack, say, with a potentiometer, so you could kind of balance the un-filtered signal with the signal going thru the stack? Of course, i guess the tonestack wouldn't be as effective when blended, but that would be ok....

curt

is there something akin to the BMP tonestack (like the one over at Beavis) that is active, with , say, an FET boost pushing a clean signal thru it? I guess it would actually be a buffer at the input (or output of the tonestack)?

trying to find something small that i can incorporate into an already built circuit, possibly on a piece of perf, that can borrow some power from the rest of the circuit, and keep the signal above unity, without too much distortion.

It was the Shocktave circuit, on veroboard. I had used the Octavia logo as part of the artwork.
Since losing my job, I've decided to sell whatever I dont think I'll use too much. (i can always build more if i want one, right?)

Turns out Chicago Iron holds the trademark for the Tychobrahe Octavia.
They got ahold of me on eBay and asked me to remove it, and of course i did, and apologized. I told them that it was a personal build, and I was selling a couple of DIY things to help pay bills.

Then after watching the youtube demo, they offered to buy it, so it "would be off the market". I said there was nothing to worry about, I didn't want any problems, I would not put it back up for sale. But they still bought it.

The guy from the company (Kurt) sent another email asking for more info about the circuit, if i build for a living, etc.. I told him that it was not my design, but I did have some ideas to make it track better, but hadn't tried those ideas on this particular circuit ( I'm breadboarding the synthbox V2 for the experimenting).

Then I asked if he was thinking about marketing the circuit.

Havent heard any answer to that question.

Interesting, tho.

Since I've got so much free time on my hands lately, I decided to finally box one of my FET boosts up properly. I've been playing it while housed in a 4-hole enclosure, with no bottom plate on it, for months. Just couldn't see any reason to mess with it, since it's just for me, and I don't care much for looks, I'm a practical guy;D
You can guess what circuit it is......


Extra points if you know where the graphic is from.....

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I have never liked playing out of dirt pedals too much....I am more of a booster guy, because I own what I consider the best sounding amps out there (Dr Z Maz 18, and a Tone King Metropolitan). So for a little more gain, I just prefer to push the preamp tubes with a SHO-style circuit.

But this thing.....if I close my eyes, it's like I'm playing straight through my Maz, dimed. Hands down the best dirt pedal I've ever played through. And so tonally versatile. I am blown away.

I modified the etched board for a trimmer for bias, and used an AC176, hfe 83, very low leakage.

So I decided to etch my own macheen board, came out okay, and checked out good for continuity. Populated it, went to test it.....Nothing.
Dammit!
Since it's such a small circuit, component-wise, I decided to just do another, this time on vero, a Sabro layout (which he did using Brian's schematic)

Boom. Same thing.

After examining the traces/copper strips on both boards under a light, everything looked kosher, but just to be on the safe side I went between all the traces with an exact-o knife (I just recently bought a Hakko solder station,  but it arrived with a rather large chisel tip, so precision was not so good )

Still nothing on either board.

Well, time to bite the bullet and get out the audio probe. So I worked my way back, from the output.
And you know what ?
Both boards lose the signal after the drain pin on Q4 ( BS 170).

I've swapped the BS 170's out with a few others, and no love...

Before I go through and take voltage readings off the bjts, I wanted to check and see if anyone else has had this issue building this circuit.....I find it hard to fathom that I could screw up two different layouts of the same circuit, the same way....

I've checked the component values, in fact, I've gotten into the habit of reading all my resistors with my meter first. And everything is as it should be, as fast as I can tell.....I'll post a pic of the component and trace side shortly.
The more eyes, the better.....


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This is Joe Davisson's Shocktave, on vero.  Basically the same as a madbean octavomit.


http://youtu.be/gDhMoYR0COI


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This is a self-etched madbean Octavomit , in my second attempt at etching an enclosure.

My kid liked the first one I did on vero so I made him this one.
The trimmer on the pcb is an idea I got from cortextualizer, to bias the #2 transistor to 4.5 volts.




Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Guts.




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I actually had few issues using the vero layout of Joe D's  shocktave circuit, aside from getting the flip flop transistors matched....sounds awesome. Gigantic, really.



Built with recycled capacitors, led, bezel, and some of the wire.

YouTube demo

(I finally got a semi decent audio/video setup)

[I feel so green]

My graphics skills, both on computer and by hand, suck.
That being said, my first attempt with waterslide decals.

Heavily modified Clari(not), on self etched madbean board, with added feedback control + switch, fuzz lift, and switchable foot control of modulation by way of external photo resistor.
I came up with none of these mods, they are others' ideas.
The vactrol is a different one then called for, and I'm not sure how different the sound is to using the right one. But it's pretty out there.

I found out after building it and doing the art that there is already another pedal with the same name.
Curses, foiled again!

And the ugly truth inside...

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Is there a way, and had anyone succeeded in going this? Could it be as easy as adding a  taptation pcb?


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Just a quick build report. Finally finished a board I etched, drilled and populated , threw into a hand painted enclosure.
It's a gift for a friend.


Forgot to take a gut shot, but it was nothing special anyway.

I used vac51 vactrol that I grabbed from apex Jr. seems to do well in this circuit. Gets very choppy, sort of like the bass in the mid section of "one of these days" by Pink  Floyd.

My good friend did a nice hand painted picture on a 1590 bb for me, so in return I'm going to build him a nice effect and give it to him in the enclosure.

But, what to put in it? Fuzz is not his thing. He's into western swing, jazz, and Chet Atkins style guitar....I'm thinking a tremolo, or a reverb.....


Thoughts?

Here is a quick, crap quality demo of Jon's Clipper Ship Boost/Overdrive circuit in action.  
Jon has a better quality demo of it, played thru a clean amp.
I always play with my Dr Z Maz 18 set to drive the power tubes into saturation. And the preamp volume is at about noon.
That's how I roll.

I go back and forth between lollar imperial pickups, stock humbucker and split coil, on a custom made PRS.
The quality is just a digital camera mic, so, yea....don't expect Dolby.

And don't expect phenomenal playing, I spend more time soldering than playing nowadays.

I'm sure you all know how THAT IS....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3j9fKxk6_24&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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