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I have a piggy back question off this. When the rate pot is turned almost all the way down but not, my rate led stops flashing.  On the way down it get dimer and dimer until off. I've used rate LEDs before and they flash full brightness but very slow.

This is what the swap of the cap at C22 fixes.  Change C22 from a 1uf to a 4.7uf or 10uf and that will fix it. 

I'd add a Fuzz War or Ultra Stoner to the list

No seriously, I think you have it pretty much figured out. You can still mount the tube inside the enclosure, if you have enough space, eg. Thomas' tube driver or wiring the valvetizer to some kind of L-shaped piece of metal to hold the socket.

You know, mounting it with a bracket inside the enclosure would be the best, but I'd need some serious handholding for that, I've not done any metal work.  Well, other than drilling enclosures.   

I keep coming back to THomas' build here:  http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=18394.0, which is just an epic build.  It would be perfect for my monthly acoustic gig, but I'm not sure that having a tube protrusion would be good for me since I want something I can just throw in my acoustic bag, which might get jostled a bit. 

So with that in mind, can you guys point me in the direction of a solid state project which might fit the bill as a front end for an acoustic multi?  I love the idea of the toobey goodness offered in the valvetizer, but is there a way to accomplish something like that solid state?  I'm sure there probably is, to an extent.  I'd then add a Bear Hug for compression, probably a Six Shooter or 5 Band EQ, a Cave Dweller for a little delay and a Tenebrion for Verb.  I may also throw in a Chorus board that I already have, then the Line Driver for direct out. 

Thoughts are appreciated!  Thanks. 

In the US?  I usually just add what I need to my Smallbear or Tayda order.  If I'm trying to get one with an interesting or good looking paint job I go with Pedal Parts Plus, but they're a little more expensive.  I've also ordered from Bitches Love My Switches & Mammoth, but I've a few with quality issues in the past, e.g. paint chip or screws that don't align with threads. 

Bump on the transistor question.  Looking at the Harbinger schem, is it Q13 that's actually controlling the speed?  Seems more likely that it's Q11 & Q12, but I'm likely not looking at it correctly.

Can someone confirm the tranny controlling the speed and if it just needs a transistor with more gain?  I should have several different options I can try, e.g. 2n3904, 2n5089, MPSA18, etc. 

Thanks!

EDIT:  I'm good!  stuck in a 2n5089 for Q13 and a 4.7uf for C22.  More speed and Rate LED pulses at lowest speed setting now.

Dude, although that's not my guitar tone palette, that is one flexible and great sounding amp!  Talk about a ton of features too. 

Holy smokes!  Those look fantastic.  Well done sir!

Gah, your multis kill me.  I really want to do a multi for my acoustic rig, but I just haven't gotten to it and I certainly wouldn't do it justice like you guys. 

It's always surprises me to see DIY guys that like macs. 

Doubly so, it surprises me that more DIY guys don't get their hands dirty with Hackintosh's.  You get the power of a Mac Pro, the ease of use of OSX, but the price of a PC.  I mean, that's pretty much all I'm ever looking for. 

I have nothing against Windows and even thought about just going back to PC, but I use Logic just about exclusively for DAW and Final Cut X for video stuff.  I could go with Pro Tools, but I really am just not up for making that switch right now. 

I have a Hack that I built in 2011, built on a Gigabyte X58 board with an i7 950.  I have two SSD's for OS, and 3 1TB drives in RAID for storage.  Admittedly I'm still running Mavericks, but this thing has been solid through several upgrades and it still churns through projects.

Like peAk said, you'll get a bunch of opinions on this.  Building a PC (Hack) isn't difficult, seriously.  The Hackintosh community has gotten this down to a science.  You just take it slow, follow their guides and you can get it going. 

Just my .02

Hey guys,
Looks like we lost some posts discussing swapping out C22 to provide the ability for the Rate LED to light at lower speed settings, but I can't remember what the suggested values were.  Seems like there was also talk of swapping one of the trannies, maybe Q12 or Q13, for an MPSA13 for more speed.  Any direction on increasing the speed and getting the rate LED to show lower speed settings?  It's not a deal killer and my preference would be not to go desoldering resistors around the speed pot, but thought I'd ask if it's an easy fix, since I socketed C22 and the trannies.  Thanks!

Said before and I'll say again, why choose?  Hackintosh

Mine has been rock solid since 2011 and I'm getting ready to update parts & OS.  This is something that deserves consideration. 

Apparently my post got lost from the crash today so I'll repost.

Here's my board after finishing up the Harbinger One.  I'm pretty much done with my board at this point.  I may swap out a drive here and there for interim periods, say a Rat for the Klone, maybe a Timmy for the Morning Glory.  Will probably try a different fuzz here and there, but overall I love the pedal line up I have and what I can get from them. 

The only commercial pedal, other than the VP Jr and the tuner is the TC Electronics Nova Delay.  This is such an underrated delay pedal IMHO.  It has tap tempo, 9 presets, several delay types and subdivisions, 3 different modulations, analog "color" and on and on.  Fantastic unit.  I picked it up mint for $120 on ebay.  You can't beat that with a stick. 

The Multiplex Jr is always on, set as more of a doubling effect and the Nova handles anything beyond that.  I run into tuner, then left to right along the bottom to VP Jr.  Then jumps over to Harbinger One and out through Nova. 

I know.  I was like, "you won't make me be productive!  You CAN'T MAKE ME BE PRODUCTIVE!!"

I was over at the BYOC forum, but got tired of the 11:1 post ratio of people not being able to get the Confidence booster to work versus legitimate conversation.  God bless those folks. 

Jonny, thanks for the suggestion -- not sure if I have any 2.2uf caps floating around at the moment, but I can definitely try a 1uf in the meantime. Will report back.

I can drop one to you if needed.  Let us know how the 1uf and tweaking the trimmers affects the thump. 

Yep, had that.  I tamed it by going to at least a 1uf, maybe even a 2.2uf (electro is fine) for C22 and then finely tuning TR3 & TR4.

I got out the thumping and now the Twin Peaks resides on my board.  It's got a hair of noise, but not too bad.  Try switching C22 and really tweaking the trimmers and see where that gets you.