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5) Neptune Delay -- this is a black PCB, and I'm not sure which run it's from. Another CJ PCB (I have a few ...). To get this, answer me this: If I take away one of Neptune's points, what is he holding.

Have fun!

Is it a pitchfork? I'm feeling there is a clever answer to this

Hey Jimi, I can send you mine layout (verified) with onboard pots if you want..
Brane

forgive my ignorance, but what kind of layout is this? Is it a vero layout?

I use a ditto looper, record a chord progression and then let it endlessly loop. Make sure not to record your favourite chord progressions as you'll start hating them after your debugging sessions

Get or (if your up for it ) buld a looper

Take a look at this:

http://www.schematicsunlimited.com/v/vox

EDIT: Not sure if it has the right AC50, the ones in the schematic are only normal and brilliant

Wow really digging the unicorn skull on the back of the PCB. What the difference between the Chimaera and this PCB?

Is one aimed for the DIY community and the other for your in-house production of pedals?

I'd try it out without a DI box first, no need in buying something you might not need

From what I read is that it's not the normal inherent clipping, its a defect in the model. The gain knob doesn't lower the gain as much as it should on line/inst (I forgot which one). The microphone gain works fine. The issue seemed fixed on the 2i4 as it had the pad switch. Apparently using a DI box also helps on the 2i2 model

I dunno if its a widespread issue, I hear plenty of people use the 2i2 on youtube without any clipping

Just a small heads up:

Apparently the 2i2 has clipping/gain problems if you plug your guitar directly into it. It should be fine if you mic your amp. Not all people report the problem, but you can google around for "2i2 clipping" and read some forums.

back when I was researching an interface for myself the above was the only thing that was detracting me. But since I was going to mic my amp its all fine

This is purely anecdotal so take it for what its worth. I used to have volume issues, they usually happened when I use the boost switch. I would switch on the boost and it would be relatively quiet and then after awhile it would be on full boost.

I don't really have this issue anymore (at least I don't notice it). Here is what I did to fix it:

1) Use the reccomended TL082 instead of a TL072

2) I've used the 100ka for volume and 500ka for gain

3) I've isolated the back with electric tape to prevent and short circuits

4) I don't really use the boost switch that often I prefer it in one position. However I've played around with it and I don't have any volume loss

To be honest I use this as a set and forget type of pedal. I have a tubescreamer running into it and only use it if I need some extra gain

Really depends on what you are after  Here is some of the stuff I am currently practising

Blues You Can Use By John Ganapes. I actually finished the main book a year or so ago and am currently going through More Blues You Can Use and Rhythm Blues You Can Use. In either case the main book is pretty good for learning bluesy stuff. The songs are diverse and it teaches you rhythm/lead/and a study song. I find the rhythm part lacking in the first book but it picks up in the other volumes. Very drill-sergeant like

Mickey Baker's Jazz Guitar Method. Very godly for various jazz chords. Stick with the method and they will flow through your fingers. Takes a long time to go through each lesson

Tom Kolb's Soloing Strategies. Im not doing this one as much as I should. I tend to ignore the theory and jump straight to the solos. It has a variety of styles so thats good

Barrett Tagliarino's Guitar Fretboard Workbook. Very good theoretical foundation. Unfortunately I had to drop it. Ill probably pick it up later.

Barrett Tagliarino's Chord Tone Soloing. I'm trying to break out of just playing the pentatonics and this book seems to help

For ear training I have a program called GNU Solfege. It has various ear training modules (even chord recognition) but I use the melodic interval section. I have it setup so it plays a melodic Interval (For example Root to 7th) and then I recognize it on the guitar. Pretty simple but Im working up on consecutive Intervals. I am up to 4 so for example it plays Root - 7th - 3rd and minor 4th. It is all in different keys so for example the 7th is the root for the 3rd and the 3rd becomes the root for the minor 4th. The goal is to try to get it all in one try.

Of course thats all useless without actual song transcriptions. I use something called "Transcribe!" for mine. Pretty handy. It can slow down licks and change keys (so you can take an Eb recording and put it into E). Pretty useful for learning stuff thats already transcribed too

If Interested I can expand on each one

Small update - I haven't tried the mod yet. I feel like an artist - who tries to add the finishing touch to his painting and ruins the entire thing. I'm going to keep it boxed up for now and if (when) something breaks I'll try out the mod

There is a sonic difference, but the phasing is so subtle in either direction and the sonic difference is... well... Subtle!  Basically you get more wet signal in one direction and more unaffected dry signal in the other.  If you want my opinion, I prefer the phase 45 stock and don't have the mod on my phase 45 build. It is really a personal preference. for the most part I prefer simplicity over bells and whistles. That being said, I have sold a bunch of PCBs with the mod included and people seem to like it for the added versatility. If you go with it and find that you agree with me you can always just keep that know at 12 o'clock

Is it possible to remove that depth mod from your PCB? Maybe solder a resistor instead of Pot? I find it hard to find the right settings to bias the phaser

I re-tried it. This time with
A1 - Cathode

A2 - R6

When I turn on the effect, the LED Indicator is On, but the LFO LED is not pulsating (depth still works, speed does not affect rate)

Turn off the effect, both LEDs are fine

I haven't done a sound test, but I assume since the LFO is not pulsating it won't work.

I'm going to re-try on a clear head tomorrow. Its probably something simple I'm missing.

Here's a stupid question - the anode is negative and usually round pad and the cathode is positive and usually square pad,?

By the way really appreciate the help!

I tried pin 7 - A1  and anode - A2; the LED is always on and not pulsating. The actual LFO is also not working (although I can control it's brightness with depth)

Then I tried the
LED cathode to A1, connect A2 to R6/R7.

and it almost worked!! THe reverse happened:

when the effect is on, the LFO is off (no sound just noise)
and when the effect is off the LFO is on and pulsating (even though my signal is bypassed)


I tried switching the A1/A2 in that case and it all stopped working

So Close!!

for the r6/r7 option I just connected it to one - the r7