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I threw up tonight for the first time in 17 years. It was not cool.


Anybody else with a similar streak?


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I've had 2 turds out of my last batch of 20 from mammoth.

If I'd have purchased 8 alpha's from PPP I would have spent 3 more dollars and had like 4 hours less frustration. my time is worth way more than 75 cents an hour.

That is all.

Are these the same thing? 1n270 and CD SN 270? I have a pair of blue and black diodes that are really little (1n4148/1n914 size), and I kinda doubt they're germanium... But I could be wrong. They're in a bag from Mammoth labled 1n270, but look more like BAT diodes to me.

I don't have a macro lense, so can't post pictures.

I am having many problems with two bootiquey bluesbreakers which I recently finished building. One is a KOT clone, and one is a Morning Glory Clone. Both are built on Aion cerulean boards. I have checked and double checked the construction and values of each board, and I am having similar problems with both.

On the KOT clone, I am having extreme popping when engaging the 3pdt. I also am not getting much volume out of the effect. Or at least as much as I'd expect.

On the Morning Glory Clone, i was getting excessive popping when using the switches, (clipping and high cut in this version) and after reflowing the solder on one switch, nada. I was also not getting any(!) clipping.

These two simple builds have me stymied. Should I go through and check voltages and whatnot? Neither problem seems to be related to build or component issues... but I am not a very experienced troubleshooter.

as a clean pedal platform?

Hey, did you know that this thing still works if you leave off this cap? I did, accidentally, and mine still worked. It wasn't very loud, but it worked.

Why? Is the electrolytic just a power-filtering cap, or does it have some other function?

Hello smartie pants guys.

You know what I would love to see? A 3pdt daughter board that would work with buffered bypass boards, like the Kingslayer and Aion Klone.

Double box: runt plus mudbunny or double mudbunny?


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So I've had a Kingslayer built and working for acouple of months. I tried to build a buffered bypass version, and I couldn't get the buffer to work. I said "screw it" and decided to box it up true bypass today.

I ordered some Tayda enclosed jacks, and tried to use those in my build.

I put the pedal into a 1590b with just enough room at the top. Drill the holes, put it in, wire it up. Those tayda jacks are kinda sorta impossible to figure out, but I looked and looked and figured that I got it wired right.

Wire the switch, plug it in... Horrible ground noise only.

Take it out, look at the jacks again. Still can't figure how anything different would work.

Reflow solder. Same stuff. Pull out terrible tayda jacks, put it nice normal visible open jacks in, resolder, done.

Plug it in, turn it on, full on Kloney goodness. Turn it off - no noise. Mother of pearl.

Reflow all solder on switch... look over effect to see if something has grounded out... etc. Wiring is correct. Mother of pearl.

Repeat that process 2x. Finally get out the multimeter, and start checking the switch for continuity. The bottom right solder lug is the culprit. Mother of pearl.

Pull switch, re-wire, install and wire in effect and jacks again and we are done.

And that's how I spent my Saturday afternoon.

Quick Question - Is there some reason that people don't offer amp PCB's with off-board pots & tubes? It seems like this would be a logical next project for pedal guys.

Question... Are these things OK?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-5-5mm-X-2-5mm-DC-Power-Supply-Metal-Jack-Socket-/390295632191?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5adf6eb93f

I thought I remembered somebody complaining about these shorting out on enclosures... but I could be wrong.

Hello fellas -

I am trying to build an Aion Cerulean, and the BOM claim that f1 and f2 have to be jumpered for the effect to work. For the life of me, I can't figure out what F1 and F2 are... Any ideas?

Quick question - I have been populating an Aion Cerulean (KOT clone in my case0 board, and I had a couple of clipping diode questions.

As some of you might know, that circuit is super flexible. Like, too flexible for me.

I populated the clipping diodes as follows: Standard silicone clipping diodes in d1x and d2x, and in the other diode sections, 4 symetrical 1n914's and 3 asymetrical BAT41's.

First question - will this work?

Second question - will it sound OK?

Has anybody had bad experiences with these cheapies? I can't imagine they're any different than the ones that the vendors here sell.

If I didn't ask, I know that somebody would tell me that they're all duds.

Quick Question - are the Tayda PCB mount pots different than the ones you get from Mammoth? They look like the mount is not 90 degrees in the pictures, but I wanted to check before I bought the same product at twice the price from Mammoth.

Life is good in my world.

Hello Fellas,

I have been thinking about which pedals to build for a bass player. I know that there are some DIY PCB's which are designed for bass, and those are a given.

Have any of you guys ever wired up an overdrive with a clean/dirty dual gang pot as two pots to use for bassists?

This seems to me to be the simplest solution to the problem of a circuit losing low end. I'm thinking most specifically about a Klone or JMK's Clean Drive. I guess the OD-820 from Aion would work the same way.

Hello Folks

I have a weird problem with the drive side of my voxy brown. I tested the boost and it works fine. I then tested the drive side and I am getting no drive. Weirder still, when I turn the treble knob up all the way, I get no signal. I am pretty sure I didn't wire the pot wrong, although I will go check that now, and I can't figure out why that would make the drive not work.

I tested the voltages, and at q1 I am getting 3.14 volts. Is this a problem? Do you need to know the ## of the other transistors to give me more input?

Thanks for your help.

Those dudes are horrible. i traded a DD5 to them for a palmetto boost/OD. (This was before I started spending all of my money on solder and enclosures, obviously.

The kid who runs that outfit bugged me throughout the process of the trade. I got the pedal, and the stupid thing didn't pass any signal when bypassed.

The inside of the pedal looked like absolute dog crap when I opened it up - hot glue dripped all over the place, sloppy wiring, and a goofy little vero board with about 3 components on it.

Ridiculous. I mailed it back to those goobers and they don't respond to emails, and haven't returned the pedal to me.

I would stay as far away from them as I possibly could.

What sizes do you guys use?