Messages

Lace

What about this?

http://www.runoffgroove.com/tri-vibe.html

I am also interested......

Gledison

How bout these?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Draper-22164-10pc-Set-Of-1-4-Sq-Dr-6-Point-Deep-Metric-Sockets-/261389834224?pt=DE_Haus_Garten_Heimwerker_Handwerkzeug&hash=item3cdc0c57f0

Peter

Started with this kit in 82, still have a box of PCBs that I need to put in a rack.

http://www.synthfind.com/powertran/powertran-transcendent-2000-4/

There is so much good info on the web, I suggest you start at muffwiggler.com

Peter

No, same as a resistor, they are non-polarised.

Peter

Here is a balancing amp PCB design.

Peter

http://twin-x.com/groupdiy/thumbnails.php?album=487

 

I heard about this combination and how quick it was, couldn't wait to try it.

I went through this same process as you, carefully measuring quantities, getting the right concentration of H2O2, etc.

Took absolute ages. Then I found a webpage (unfortunately gone) about a guy who built his own 737 cockpit to fly in conjunction with MS Flight Sim and who had to etch his own PCBs, and the solution was really simple.

Get the etch going as above, and then slowly add H2O2 until you see a sudden change in the surface of the copper. It is almost like a clear circle emerging outwards and the PCB, and the etch really starts happening. Sometimes I only pour a little H2O2 in and other times what feels like quite a lot, but the boards etches really quickly, almost before your eyes.

I battled for years with Ferric Chloride and other etchants, this was quite amazing for me. I don't heat the solution at all.

Good luck.

Using Rick Holt's 555 SMPS (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=74088.120 Page 6-7). Though Cleggy has used a bigger inductor. Tried a Nixie PSU and it created a lot of noise for some reason. This one is not ideal on vero, but seems to work fine. It's been given a good long test.

Thanks for that.
Peter

Brilliant job. I like the 'wolf in sheep's clothing' idea.

How did you do the 12v - 190v conversion?

Peter