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I just started to use the opto-tron, as it is much easier to find a good DPDT than a 3PDT of equal quality. Josh's boards are top quality, really convenient, and the optocouplers are not that expensive when you buy 10+ of them.

Also, I'm working on making my own small footprint, soft-touch 3PDT switches to use in my 1590A builds, they still need a bit of testing but I'm nearly done.

To be honest, I've given up on 3PDT switches. The Alpha 3PDT is pretty nice, a bit stiff as most 3PDT switches, but nice, and far better than the usual blue switch from the far east, but I did not find a source for it in Europe, and although PPP sells it for a fair price the cost of shipping overseas is bit off-putting. Still, if you want a good 3PDT, that would be my recommendation.

I noticed that Mouser sells Bourns 9mm pots (search for 652-PTD90) for a rather decent price ($1.7). Has anyone tried them? I am wondering if I should give them a chance, or just place another order at Tayda just for pots and forget about them.

http://fr.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Potentiometers-Trimmers-Rheostats/Potentiometers/_/N-9q0ypZscv7?P=1yzshlv&Keyword=652-PTD90&Ns=Resistance|0&FS=True

Thanks! So it's slightly taller than a 1590A, it would be fun to be able to get those enclosures. Anyhow, that's a cool little pedal.

I think their SL Drive is similar, small jacks, 9V battery and amazing use of the space inside the enclosure. It's nice to hear they sound good too!

Out of curiosity, how tall is the enclosure?

I guess the momentary has a "jason" marking on the side while the other does not?

If the etch solution isn't working well, just add more H2O2.

That would be the best thing to do. What activates the acid is the oxygen; not enough oxygen = slow action. But the more you add H2O2, the more you dilute the muriatic acid (this is why the stronger 30% hydrogen peroxide is better), so you have to find a balance. I read that some people just "add oxygen" by letting the acid container open for a while, but it may be worth a try (provided there is no child or pet around).

– by "it does not work', do you mean that there is no sound at all?
- all the versions you listed have 2n5088 in the BOM, so I guess you used them and followed the silkscreen orientation, but in case you used different transistors, check that their orientation is correct.
– check the transistor voltages with your DMM

If you do not have one, build an audio probe (it's easy) and run it along the signal traces (follow the schematic) to find where you "lose" the sound.

Also, pictures of the other side of the board(s) could be useful.

I have ordered from them seven times since last August, and each time I received my order within five days, so I would be enclined to think that you have been very unlucky — twice. Then, maybe I have just been lucky. I have always ordered small quantities and common parts, so that would lower the odds that one of them delay the order. Still, their communication regarding stocks and delays seems to be rather poorly handled.

Not voted yet; I would have chosen "on occasion" (say, one or two per month), but that would also depend on the shipping cost (I live in Europe).

If you also offer powdercoated enclosures, and if the price of the enclosures + shipping (without the price of engraving) is competitive with PPP, yeah, I would certainly choose you over them.

Super clean work on the board, and the enclosure is awesome, how did you do it? Printed decal?

[provided]

An interesting read: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=6723.msg57589#msg57589

There are more discussions that would be very instructive for a first time builder, so I heartily recommend that you search the forum a bit. There are lots of treasures of information to be found by every newcomer. There is nothing wrong with asking questions of course, but doing a bit of homework will help you tremendously.

As for your specific questions, I'll disagree in part with rullywowr:

And while you can usually replace an electro with a film, you usually cannot replace a film with an electro. 

True, you can usually replace an electro (polarized) with a film cap (non-polarized), but you can also usually replace a film cap with an electro cap provided you take care of the polarity (watch the schematic to see where the higher voltage is; that's where the + of the cap will go).

the consensus is that films sound better than electros so films are often found in the audio path.

True. But the consensus is also that it does not matter, and that you do not even have to use "audio grade" electro caps in the signal path; it will sound just fine (and you won't have to deal with a brick-sized cap).

I guess it will be the same as with 9 mm pots. They'll add values over time.

Yea the look of older parts is very cool.  People always love older stuff.

Yeah, but put anything under a blob of goop and tell them "there's magic underneath" and they'll positively go crazy.

With this one I'm hitting 500, and I'm joining you in thanking everyone around for making this awesome community.