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Need an assist. I have a DOD FX22 Vibro Thang that is giving me nothing but static noise on the output. Looked at wiring... no dice. Checked for proper voltages and grounds... all look good.

Schematic:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bhlvlrxp1mu44tk/FX22.pdf

Here are my voltages:

U1/U2: LM13600 (Numbers in RED are different on U2. All other voltages are same as U1)

1) 1.27
2) 1.10
3) 4.40
4) 4.40
5) 5.58
6) 0
7) 5.58
8] 4.40
9) 4.40 3.23
10) 5.58 4.40
11) 9.5
12) 5.58 4.40
13) 4.40
14) 4.40
15) 1.10
16) 1.27

U4: LM358

1) 2.5 - 5.1
2) 2.5 - 5.1
3) 2.5 - 5.1
4) 0
5) 2.5 - 5.1
6) 2.5 - 5.1
7) 2.5 - 5.1
8] 9.5

So... the voltages all look pretty good to me. My LFO appears to be working. All of these were taken with the effect bypassed and all pots full CCW.

I would audio probe but... I have no idea what to listen for and where to listen for it. Not a lot of experience with these OTAs. Can anyone offer an idea of what to listen for and where?

I have 2 LEDs that are "in circuit" and when the circuit is turned on.... one of the LEDs is pretty bright and the other is quite a bit more dim.

I used my DMM to make sure the LEDs checked out and when I put the DMM in Diode check mode and properly biased the LEDs.... the results were the same. LED#1 was bright. LED#2 was dim. (The LEDs lit up when I tested with the DMM)

Im pretty sure that both LEDs came from Tayda so I am suspicious of their operation at the moment 

Could this just be a matter of the "dim" LED being somewhat faulty or just that one is ultrabright and the other is not.

Both are Diffused Red LEDs.

Opinions??

10% off everything (except painting/powder coat/drilling services) until Midnight on July 4th! 

Gonna make the write up short and sweet as this is my second attempt. The first one was long and pretentious and I just didn't want to post it.
These are my latest addiction. Lovetone FULL-SIZED clones in 1590D enclosures. All of them have full functionality and they all have Black PCB etched faceplates that were liquid tinned.
Some shout outs to my peeps that helped me through...
#1 Ian (LaceSensor) without whom none of this would happened. Inspiration and several emails later (I swear he knows exactly where the problems are) and I have some AWESOME Lovetone pedals!
#2 Jim (electricstorm) without whom the ??Flanger wouldn't have happened. Jim, along with Alanp and myself were involved with the ??Flanger re-birth. Most of the work was done by Jim. I hope things are better for you brother!
#3 Ben (rullywowr) who provided me with 2 of these PCBs etched as part of a trade. Spectacular work my friend!
#4 Juansolo who assisted me with the Doppelganger build document.

Cheers to you all..... And on to THE SHOW!!!

First up... The ??Flanger




Next.... The DoppelGanger




Finally.... The Meatball




And Finally.... The Group Shot


I am currently in work on the Wobulator and the RingStinger. As soon as I get them ALL out and completed... I will be more than happy to share with those brave souls who would attempt the builds!

Cheers 

Just used the first of many of these DPDT footswitches from Tayda and noticed a very loud POP when they are stomped (not only mechanical but also audible in the circuit)

Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue AND is it the switch or do I need to add a pull down resistor at the input?

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/stomp-switch/dpdt-compact-stomp-foot-pedal-switch-momentary.html

I have a special kinship with ExpressPCB in that.... it is the only layout program I know and am comfortable with 

I am planning to learn DipTrace BUT.... in the mean time I want to get some PCBs done.

Does anyone have a good library for ExpressPCB that will share it with me? I had someone send me one long ago and sadly, it is gone 

I especially need ALPHA Rotary Switches. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! 

I just placed an order about 15 minutes ago and for an experiment.... I chose the DHL Express shipping 

I am interested in how much faster it will arrive. Does anyone have any experience? 

Went to Tonepad for the first time in a LONG time and saw that after 4+ years, there was finally a new project added. The Rebote 3. Got pretty excited until I saw this:

"Given the recent abuse of the info posted at tonepad we've been forced to implement a crowd-funded (or pay-per-view) way of posting the pdf. Once each batch of 50 boards is sold a new area of the pdf will be revealed in the following order: parts layout, schematic, and finally ready to transfer and traces images. Only parts layout will be available until we sell the first batch of boards. And customers will receive printed documentation to complete the project."

What "abuse" is Francisco talking about? And... is this going to be the norm with newly released projects?

Can anyone tell me where to find these? I see them on a lot of builds being used to keep the In/Out jacks look more "flush" with the enclosure but, I have no idea where to get them.

Thanks!

Does eBay turn a blind eye to people who use auto-bidding or sniper programs?

I was always under the impression that eBay frowned on this activity. I suppose they dont care anymore. I recently saw an enormous amount of bidding activity on an item I was watching. I was curious so, I looked up the bidding history.

Turns out that 1 bidder was able to put in 16 bids, $2 at a time... and each bid had no more than 2 seconds between them 

So either this person is the fastest fingers on the Internetz OR he was using an autobid system.

Thoughts??

I have reached out to the wah master... Joe Gagan but, I figured someone here might know as well.....

I am trying to install a Wah pot gear onto a solid shaft 24mm pot. The gear has a small through-hole on one end for a small metal dowel. My question is this:

What can I use to drill a hole through the solid metal shaft so I can install the dowel?

The dowel pin is very small so I was thinking about using a PCB bit BUT.... those are very delicate and will most likely break while drilling the steel/aluminum shaft.

Anyone done this before? Advice??

Looking for the schematic on this. Cannot find it for the life of me 

Mostly interested in the implementation of the Tone stack on it. Where, how, and why?

Anyone got a linky or a file for a brother? 

I happen to have an Ibanez CS9 that I would like to fully ressurect. The problem is that someone CUT OUT the DC jack from the PCB and it is gone forever 

I was thinking about cobbling it together to just run on battery power but, I dont work that way. Now, what I am thinking is that I would like to fully rebuild the PCB with the same layout, size, etc. as a drop in.

PROBLEM: I have no idea how to use any of the PCB layout programs! 

Hoping some kind soul here that is familiar with these programs could do an etchable layout for me.

Any takers?  I could provide pics of the trace and component sides of course...

Hey all....

Its been a while since I have messed with a BOSS pedal and I need some guidance. I have a BOSS CE-3 and everything works great on it EXCEPT for the Check LED. When I plug in my 1Spot the effect works just fine sound wise but, I get no Check LED to indicate it is engaged.

Is this normal? If not... what could be the causes?

EDIT: Check light works just fine on battery!  Whaaaaaaaa

Larry's (armdnrdy) Mutron Flanger project. Hands down one of the best flangers I have used. The sweepable filter makes it exceptional! Unfortunately.. it must go  but, I wanted to throw up these pics here to encourage more builds. YOU WONT REGRET IT!!! Sorry for the blurry pics... it was a big coffee day for me!



And... some guts!!! The PCB is missing the 4011 clock chip in the picture. Also, the LED/LDR board has a 5mm Yellow LED installed which I replaced with a 3mm since I failed to read the build doc COMPLETELY!  :icon_redface:

Looking to make a purchase from user name: janeh2100 on eBay

Anyone have any good stories... or horror stories?

Looked for recommendations for a Delay as I have gone without one for quite a while and I was steadfastly pointed towards Josh's Multiplex. It WAS NOT a bad decision!

I really didn't want to go BBD on this and I already had a stockpile of PT2399s (Directly from Princeton so I knew they were good) so I decided to get the PCB from him and make a go of it! Went totally stock on this one and I must say, this is one of the most versatile and incredible non-BBD delays that I have ever played through. I love the flexibility that the 2 Delay controls give me and the momentary ramp up for the Tape stomp just makes it over the top.

Etched faceplate is courtesy of Jon (Hope all is going well for you bro!) He is a class act and helped a fellow brother out when I needed a quality job as you can see.

No regrets here. Just pure AWSOMENESS!!!

Does anyone have a good source for the low profile 5-6mm high electro caps? 1-100uF?

I am running out of my stock and looking for a good deal for some future small-ish enclosure builds 

Thought it would be cool to see things that the good little girls and boys got for Christmas. As well as show off your Christmas goodies! 

This is my SWEET Christmas morning surprise!!!


1996 American Standard Stratocaster. Maple neck. OHSC. MINT!!!!

Totally surprised with this one. I can usually guarantee knowing what I am getting but this..... this was a shocker!

OK.... who is next?? 

My latest creation...

The Madbean M117 Flanger. This build went about as easy as a build with a SAD1024 can go!  Straight forward build of the madbean M117 self-etched layout. Using the Road Rage PCB to run the circuit at 15V (NICE!!!) and a left over Mammoth 3PDT board to try some clean wiring techniques. Was a bit skiddish and installed the SAD chip only after ensuring ALL of the voltages were correct, the clock was properly set, and all components were TRIPLE verified! 
NO NOISE at all on this one! Actually a pretty hassle free build! Used a 47pF for the clock cap. Started with a 68pF and worked my way down until the clock was set from 32KHz to 920KHz on the max CW and CCW of the Manual pot. Trimmed the Feedback to jjjjjuuuuussssssttttt get to self oscillation at max setting.

There is NO substitute for the old MXR M117 flange. Warm and lush just as expected. Definitely can tell a difference between this and ANY MN-based flanger.

The enclosure is a PPP pre-drilled 1590BB in Silver Vein powder coat. Looks AWESOME in some lighting situations.





Sorry for some of the crap images... I haven't eaten dinner yet and was a bit shaky....