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But if I can't put the CL anywhere on the board without issues, it's unusable.

Does your amp have an effects loop?

Thanks for replying. The wires' proximity doesn't seem to matter actually, I move them around and nothing changes. So I'm skeptical shielding will help. I can try un-grounding one of the jacks

Reflex reply to any build with a clock or LFO. Shielded wiring will avoid a lot of wiring issues involved with these.

As stated above, make sure you are testing your build ALONE (Guitar > Pedal > Amp) as it will avoid any unnecessary interferences.

I hear 2 things....

I hear LFO ticking at all settings and I also hear 'whining' that gets more pronounced as the Feedback is turned up.

Recommend that you replace all of your Input and Output wiring with shielded (RG-174) wiring to get rid of the LFO tick. Be sure to ground the shielding from these lines only on one side (at the jacks). Also recommend adjusting your Feedback trim to get rid of the whine.

EDIT: Another idea is to remove the ground from EITHER the Input or Ouput jack but not both. Grounding one of the jacks will also provide ground to the enclosure and thus, the other jack by its contact with the enclosure.

Apparently VERY late to the party. What's the deal with this??

The 33uF caps (C26, C27, C35) are tantalum (supposedly bipolar??), but are oriented off lead length (no pole indicators) just in case.

Fairly certain that Tant caps cannot be bipolar. Unless you use 2 in series with the same polarities connected like C27/C27).

As long as you put the longer lead into the (+) pad then you should be ok

Possibly use a 10mm LED?

What would you do with the existing LED?

Acetone would gum up the paint, I imagine. But, if it's on bare metal it might do the trick. Or, just sanding it off in that case.

Thanks Brian! The silkscreen is on a powdercoated enclosure. Its an old Morley-style wah enclosure (Bad Horsie 2)
I prefer to leave the powdercoat in tact hence the hope for no sanding 

Anyone try to remove silkscreen from a metal enclosure? What did you use? I tried nail polish remover but it doesn't seem to work. Gonna try straight Acetone but, wondering if anyone has other ideas.

Thanks 

Joe Gagan might be able to make you one, he's seller "kalena_5" on eBay

Unfortunately the Joe Gagan route is a no go. Apparently he thinks everyone is out to get him and I somehow am at fault for that. Oh well, $45 for a wah pot seemed steep to me.

Any other ideas from anyone? Thanks!

Is that an anodized black footswitch or is that just the shading from the picture? If the former.... where did you get it? Love it!!

Can anyone tell me what is the bushing and shaft length is for a standard cry baby wah pot? I need to fit an A1M pot into a cry baby shell and need to know what to order.

Thanks! 

EDIT: Or... anyone know where I can get a ready-made A1M wah pot?

The oval (labeled 12MHz) is for a clock crystal like this:



EDIT: If you are asking about the ovals labeled 15p or 20p then those are ceramic capacitors.

Happy Birthday! Many more to come!!

We have all used the cheaper IC sockets in our builds. The ones that look like this:



My question is... how do you seat the IC properly? I have always had issues with the IC sitting crooked or not seating well. Any trusted methods to share? Never have a problem with the machined IC sockets.