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Howdy.
I did a fuzz face project in Eagle, based on the General Guitar Gadget '70 fuzz schematic here:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_ff5_sc_b70.pdf
(I added the optional components on mine)

I had boards fabbed, but I'm having a problem with D2 overheating.
It won't bias properly. For reference, my voltages are:
Q1: C=.99 B=.39 E=.17
Q2: C=.52 B=.89 E=.40
The transistors are a 2N2369 in Q1 and 2N3904 in Q2.

I've attached my layout and schematic. Maybe there's something obvious I'm overlooking, but I've checked all the values and orientations of the components, and replaced C4 and C6, as well as changed D2 to a 1N4001.

I kind of don't want to run my probe with the board overheating.

this is a fairly simple circuit, but I'm stumped, so I appreciate any suggestions

they don't have a small price break at 10, but 200 have gone from $4 to $2.80

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/271-10K-RC/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG%2fNICg4NOtz51bQLKR8aMJE%3d

Starr tele/ Blues Junior/ King Tut

http://www.starrguitars.com/

http://www.rullywow.com/product/king-tut-fuzz-pharoh-clone-pcb/

I'm tracing a circuit in Eagle.

I'm having a problem adding a "Vx" reference point to an opamp - it's part a of a dual opamp.

When I "add" the part from the library, the preview shows pins 4 and 8, but when I put it in the schematic, those pins don't show. So, I can't add either the "Va" to pin 8, or the GND to pin 4, as the schematic calls for. I can draw those parts, but without the pins, the connections aren't reflected on the board.

Am I using a wrong part, a wrong method, or what?

I've added "Vb" successfully to another part of the circuit.
I've also successfully added a "Vx" to an opamp in another circuit, since the inserted part displayed the pins, so I'm a little stumped.

thanks in advance, and in addition, I'll continue my search for an answer

On my facebook feed, Skreddy commented that he's now using a 3PDT wiring board. Analog Mike chimed in, and said he thinks they pop less. Is that true?

Although I have a Grapevine board, I couldn't resist ordering a Catalinbread Dirty Little Secret. After all, I think Brian gave a nod to buying the pedal, even after they posted the schematic online, etc ....

The clips made me seriously interested, despite the fact that I have a bunch of great overdrives.

Anyone with an original DLS is encouraged to chime in.

saw this demo on Reverb.com .... shit ... how many of you can say your hair got in the way of your playing???

anyway ... probably not totally practical, but like a lot of fuzz pedals, a heckuva lotta fun

what's the Octavia, an octave above?   .... this is two sub octaves

Howdy,
I built a Quadrovibe ... the bypass works, the LED works, and flashes in time with the speed knob, but the lamp doesn't cycle off, ergo ... no effect

anyway, does anyone have any suggestions? from reading the build docs, my next guess would be to take a look at trying different values in R16 & 17.
another thing is that when I first adjusted the trimmers, I had to get the Chop close to all the way up before the lamp fired.
one other thing I should mention is that I used an ON/ OFF/ ON DPDT for the switch... I'm gonna put in an ON/ ON in a couple of days, when I get the part

thanks for your help!

 ... and do you happen to know how they're mounted?



thanks kindly!

The other day I was checking out of my Mouser order and noticed a page that read "A ... Berkshire Hathaway company". Wow, that's Warren Buffett's investment company.

Yes, it's true that Mouser is a big company now, but it started small. Years ago I got Craig Anderton's book, and Mouser was one of a handful of suppliers then. Since I lived in San Diego and they were local, I started ordering from them. The other day I was going through my storage and found an old Mouser box with some mojo parts, and an invoice from 1995.

Anyway, you can read Mouser's history on their site. As I already knew, it was started by a high school science teacher who had a hard time finding parts for his classroom projects.
I suppose there's a lesson there: start small and dream big ... or something like that.

Hello ...
I'm looking for a good Tri Vibe board, maybe one that will fit in a 1590B.

I did a search and saw the ChiBoy board, but that's a bit larger ...
I'll keep looking through my searches in the meantime, but I appreciate any suggestions!


Thanks kindly!

here's a pin header for the Zero Point SDX breakout board connection:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=M20-9991046virtualkey57420000virtualkey855-M20-9991046

this looks like the right part, but please verify, since I haven't placed my order and seen one yet. They may have others if you search, but this was the first one I found.

Howdy
I'm working on my second Kingslayer.
On the buffered wiring, one lug of the switch has four connection - two 68k resistors, the 100k resistor, and an output wire.
Does anyone have a tip for wiring this? I had a heck of a time with the first one!
I'm thinking of tacking a bit of left over lead above the lug to make a more convenient terminal.

thanks in advance!

[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/gary-carr-6/01-1[/soundcloud]

Here is a mudbunny, made to '71 Classic Triangle specs.
Sounds great!
For reference:

Mudbunny Green Russian Voltages
      Q1:      Q2:      Q3:      Q4:

E -     0.94      0.13      0.14      0.15
B -    1.52      0.72      0.73      0.73
C -    4.54      4.45      4.57      4.55

Transistors were 5088s: Hfe 479, 486, 486, 489

[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/gary-carr-6/green-russian2[/soundcloud]

Hello all!
I have a mudbunny Mayo, built per the parts list with no substitutions.
Everything is working OK, but I'm getting intermodulation, with some frequencies more pronounced. Also, for example, if I do a slide down a whole step on certain notes, it sounds 'sour'.
My voltages look like this:

      Q1:      Q2:      Q3:      Q4:

E -     0.02      0.04      0.02      1.18
B -    0.62      0.65      0.62      1.77
C -    3.86      4.32      3.60      4.83

I wanted to ask if anyone has run across this specific problem.
I've built a couple other mudbunnies without this problem, so it's buggin' me.

I'm reading some tech articles for ideas, and I plan to double check my parts, but in the meantime, I hope you can help me narrow down the area of concern.

first of all, a word of thanks to the forum, to Brian specifically, and to Jacob for the tutorial on his test rig ...
I've actually been building for quite a while, but very unsuccessfully ... GGG projects, BYOC projects ... even going back to Craig Anderton's book years ago ....

this little pedal represents a couple of firsts for me:

• first time I used a test rig before boxxing
• first time I drilled a box successfully

the build is pretty straightforward: I used the BOM for Mouser, with 5088 transistors ... after testing, I added the two omitted components, and optimized the transistor positions ... the Hfe ranged ~500 - ~600
For the sound file, I used a custom parts strat (USA Custom Guitars) with Duncan pickups through a DRRI. Please forgive the lousy recording on my $2 PC mic. I'll work on that, but it is what it is -- I think you get the idea that the pedal is fat and 'resonant' .  You can hear me switch between neck and bridge positions before I got rudely cut off.

I'm using the Mudbunny as a learning tool ... moreso than to cop anyone's tone. In the past, I've favored Tonebenders and Fuzz Faces -- I love both, but I think the Muff is a little less "quirky".

again, my sincere thanks to the forum!
- Gary








[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/gary-carr-6/mb[/soundcloud]

howdy ...
I've just built a Mudbunny Triangle.
I have a specific question:
on the mudbunny triangle parts list, the input resistor - R2 - is listed as 3K3. Most versions I've seen have this as 33k or 39K -- both the mudbunny versions, and other ones out there.
so is the 3.3K listed correct?

and thanks ... I know this is treading old ground for many of you, since this project has been here a few years ... I was just a little late to the party! 

- Gary