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have you read this:
https://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/FuzzFaceFAQ/FFFAQ.htm

Steve measures his transistor sets in an actual test circuit. I assume he uses math to figure out his resistor values.

in that article, he tells you exactly which gains work best in the circuit. The problem is that Ge gains vary a lot, so as he says, in order to keep costs affordable, he broadens the allowable gains, thus the tweaked resistor values. Note that those values are for the stock circuit, with fixed resistors. That is why a lot of folks nowadays use a trimmer -- it's adjustable!

anyway, I don't know the exact math he uses, but I measure my transistors for gain, set the bias, then LISTEN ... articles always mention that 4.5v setting, but as you know, actual voltage varies. In fact, I just got through testing an Axis circuit that sounded kinda crappy at 4.5v, but sounds great at 4.8v. Go figure.

anyway, I don't know if any of that helped, but the Peak tester is great for sorting transistors quickly, whether it's Ge or Si, NPN or PNP. you can also use it to verify the pin out if you have any doubts. That allows you to buy stuff like Small Bear's bulk trannies, and save some dough.

I love the sound of that clip ... from the few things I've seen, DeadAstronaut is certainly doing some creative stuff.

Also, props to VIPfx. I love the Silk Hat. I also have an All Star Reverb board that I haven't built yet. It looks as if the Chasm is no longer available from him ... well, he did say it wouldn't last!

you may have gotten lucky with your transistor gains!
I've found some OCxx batches are very consistent ... I have a batch of OC75s that are all right around 80.

it's not so much a problem if you're doing a one-off pedal, but if you want to reproduce a few, it's probably a good idea to go with the conventional wisdom and check the gains.

nice job

Benders are my favorite fuzz!
When built right and biased properly, they are so vocal and expressive, with just a little bit of unruliness.

Anyone here ever looked at opening an account with Alpha?

no, but I have requested a quote for the pc mount pots from Mouser.
I think it was 85 cents each, with a minimum order of 1000 -- for each value.

not to be a naysayer, but I began to question the whole klon thing when I read in the Premier Guitar interview that he was trying to design something that would retain his tone when he played his tele through his Twin in small clubs   

I would think you'd want the boost on a switch.

The later version is in the discontinued projects.
I did a search, and according to Brian, "I also updated the "Silverfox" to ver.3, which is almost the exact same as the previous, but on a slightly smaller board."

muy bien hecho!

1.3 oz. / 36 grams

quite a few folks have said that the particular transistor is less important than the gain

I've also seen comments that the Mk I is notoriously difficult to bias properly ... not that I would discourage you from building one -- I have a MK 1.5 by BMF pedals.
If it was me, though, I'd have to do a little digging about the transistor gains.

just FYI, I think you can use Photoshop for $10 a month ... FWIW

I've only had a transistor come loose from a socket once. That's after being shipped around the country to several different people.
Anyway, there are a few benefits to sockets, and I always use 'em.

with practice, it's easy to tell when a transistor is well-seated

personally, if I needed additional security, I'd probably use silicone sealant, which holds well enough, but is also fairly easy to remove

I think the real part should be a 3362"P".
open the data sheet from the link you provided for your part, and compare the orientation between the two parts. basically, you just need the middle pin to be ... in the middle. you should be able to get your part to fit, although those pins are kinda short and stiff -- be careful, especially if you just have one!

as pointed out above, the main thing is to get the middle pin correct: since it's a variable resistor, it will work either way to find the 4.5v bias point. it's just good practice to put it in correctly

without seeing your caps ....

the square pads on the board are positive ... the long leg of the cap goes to the square pad

with axial caps, the indent is positive side -- check the build doc

does that help?