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91
General Questions / Re: PCB Design Software
« Last post by Chinaski on February 11, 2024, 04:56:59 PM »
I'm still on Eagle…

I've attempted to move to KiCad several times and I think I need a good set of YouTube tutorials to get it straight.

I think since we mostly are dealing with through-hole it's not as widely catered to. But I could be way off. I think even though I've borrowed some footprint libraries from some other members, the rest a eagle connects everything at the symbol/schematic stage of design is what I'm used to. Also that everything is in a singular library, not segmented into symbol and footprint

Maybe I need to look a bit harder :P

Haven't tried diptrace. Haven't finished my dive into Flux.

Call me old fashioned, but I don't want cloud only. The cloud is just someone else's computer you have no control over. Whatever my Eagle replacement ends up being, I want it all local.
So it’s not just me, Kicad footprint libraries are arranged horribly.


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92
Open Discussion / Re: NGD
« Last post by gordo on February 11, 2024, 03:56:43 PM »
I had, if memory serves (sketchy lately) a 68 Deluxe gold top that had the mini humbuckers.  Back then everyone routed them out and installed humbuckers.  Stupid mistake but I was the second owner.  The body was intended to house P90's but Gibson's workaround was the trim ring and mini-humbuckers.  Those guitars had a sound of their own.

I'd kill to have that guitar back, even in it's routed form.  At the time it was the last of the mahogany necks before they switched to maple.  Maple????
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Open Discussion / Re: non-conductive hardware mounting
« Last post by jessenator on February 11, 2024, 03:29:24 PM »
Just from my observations, the pins are wet small and most likely not strong enough to hold the board without a little help. That’s just my thought, anyway.

Totally. Totally agree agree they're necessary for stability.

Curious why the drill points need to have pad-like contacts on them and they can't just be drilled out and that's that.
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Open Discussion / Re: non-conductive hardware mounting
« Last post by jimilee on February 11, 2024, 02:32:01 PM »
So this came out of observing a recent troubleshooting thread, but it's made me wonder: why do components like 9mm pots have "pads" where the metal spring-lite clasps mount to to the PCB?

Why is it metalized? Can it just be a drill in the gerbers with no pad? I suppose structural strength, but then again, fiberglass or whatever resin compound it's made from isn't exactly flimsy.

Just something I've wondered about.

In other applications it could be a grounding point, but if there's no conductivity, ground included, then why?
Just from my observations, the pins are wet small and most likely not strong enough to hold the board without a little help. That’s just my thought, anyway.


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95
Open Discussion / non-conductive hardware mounting
« Last post by jessenator on February 11, 2024, 01:05:38 PM »
So this came out of observing a recent troubleshooting thread, but it's made me wonder: why do components like 9mm pots have "pads" where the metal spring-lite clasps mount to to the PCB?

Why is it metalized? Can it just be a drill in the gerbers with no pad? I suppose structural strength, but then again, fiberglass or whatever resin compound it's made from isn't exactly flimsy.

Just something I've wondered about.

In other applications it could be a grounding point, but if there's no conductivity, ground included, then why?
96
It's possible the noise will go away once it's PCB built and everything is shielded in an enclosure. Also, stick a couple 470uF caps and a 100n film cap in parallel to decouple the main power supply if you haven't already.

470u?! I think the largest I’ve ever had on hand is 220u… would that work? I also have a LOT of 100u.

Everything is powered from 9v into two 5v converters (l7805s - one powers the LEDs, the other powers the relays). Typical setup for those - 100u, 100n, 7805, 220n, 100u. I separated the LEDs cause they were originally making a LOT of noise. Realizing this may be due to the grounding issue where I separated audio ground from the system - Once I connected audio/system ground, a lot of the noise went away, but there’s still a faint high pitch…

The arduino is so far powered by USB, so that could have implications - I’m just not sure how to connect actual power since I think it’s center positive.

I’ll make another video this morning, the noise is far better once I connected audio ground to the system ground.

That looks like a huge and awesome project.

What does perturb me is that as you Arduino cycles, the noise changes. That leads.me to believe either it or its supply are the source.
That being said, start with adequate filtering there. ¿Maybe? even a ferrite bead if you want to get fancy.

Also, on Brian's coattails, any change with all pedals bypassed vs all bypassed and all powered off? If so, try to narrow down which one.

Could also tin foil hat the Arduino and see if that depletes it. If you find that's the origin and filtering/changing supply doesn't remedy it, you may have to try a different model or find a shielding solution. Oh, also, run it headless(no screen) if able.

Really want to see how this comes together as it's freakin awesome!


First off, thank you - when I started it YEARS ago, not many folks had used this method with an Arduino - it was sort of a hacked instructable that I happened upon. Now it looks like others have tried similar to varying degrees of success. I have a good feeling about this one, though - Some folks at the Arduino forum really ran with it and insisted I use better code, then helped get it beyond where I thought it would land, so I’m excited.

I think filtering is the key here - perhaps specifically along where the relays are powered. You also mentioned tinfoil hat-ting the arduino, which means I should probably figure out the center positive supply. I have an adapter, I just need to wire it correctly.

I did try disconnecting and reconnecting the pedals, as well as just bypassing them all - same noise, but again the ground issue resolved a lot (But not all) of the noise.

Not sure what you mean by headless/no screen? I’m running pins right into an arduino mega, so there’s no screens attached yet.

I’ll post the completed project here; realistically, probably March - I’ve had the enclosure for years, and it’ll be super custom (tuner, tap, master bypass, etc.), so I gotta be realistic - but it needs to get done and the parts out of my closet drawer. I still have to layout and order the PCBs; probably through JLC, even though I’ll get more than I need. Annoyingly, I had single coil relays that worked fine on the breadboard, but through a misunderstanding on the Arduino forum about how they were triggered, I ordered dual coils. Turns out they essentially work the same way in this context, but I think I can account for that in the design of the PCB and either version can be used. Guess I’ll have an extra, hehe…

More to follow… will employ some of these notes this morning…
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Requests / Bandwrecker w/ lofi echo?
« Last post by buck3t5 on February 11, 2024, 04:34:01 AM »
 Bandwrecker with a lofi echo? Maybe into a simplified cavedweller with fixed dwell/echo and shorter delay range?
Vol(trim?)/Freq/Rate/Time

98
That looks like a huge and awesome project. I'm not terribly well voiced in Arduino but pretty good on the audio and RGI/EMI side.
Hopefully, as Brian said, it all goes away once in a box. I definitely think your noise is originating internally though, not stray environmental noise. If it's possible, turn off any unused radios(wifi, Bluetooth...).  Adding extra filtering to all (3?) power supplies would be ideal. With that much cabling in you test setup, your probably just picking it up from that. What does perturb me is that as you Arduino cycles, the noise changes. That leads.me to believe either it or it's supply are the source.
That being said, start with adequate filtering there. ¿Maybe? even a ferrite bead if you want to get fancy.
Also, on Brian's coattails, any change with all pedals bypassed vs all bypassed and all powered off? If so, try to narrow down which one. Start with any pedal with a charge pump/buck/boost. Could also try running just a bunch of patch cables through the loops(no pedal) and see if it's cumulative/additive as more pedals are added.
And of course, wiggle any wires where data and audio cross.
Could also tin foil hat the Arduino and see if that depletes it. If you find that's the origin and filtering/changing supply doesn't remedy it, you may have to try a different model or find a shielding solution. Oh, also, run it headless(no screen) if able.
Hopefully some food for thought and something eventually helpful. Really want to see how this comes together as it's freakin awesome!
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Open Discussion / Re: NGD
« Last post by jimilee on February 10, 2024, 10:07:07 PM »
Perfect Les Paul… P90s and a Gold Top. You are now considered complete.

Until future GAS attack….
It’s a perpetual state of being for me.


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100
Open Discussion / Re: NGD
« Last post by blearyeyes on February 10, 2024, 08:14:33 PM »
Perfect Les Paul… P90s and a Gold Top. You are now considered complete.

Until future GAS attack….
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