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Current lover

Started by robrhy, November 18, 2014, 03:23:49 PM

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robrhy

How do you wire up the current lover without the DPDT filter ?

Govmnt_Lacky

Do you just want the Flanger?

If so, then you could just omit the switch and hard wire the switch pads on the PCB to mimic the connections made while in Flanger mode. Pretty simple actually... if that is what you are wanting  ;)

robrhy

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on November 18, 2014, 03:33:10 PM
Do you just want the Flanger?

If so, then you could just omit the switch and hard wire the switch pads on the PCB to mimic the connections made while in Flanger mode. Pretty simple actually... if that is what you are wanting  ;)

Yes,Flange mode only.

Govmnt_Lacky

When looking at the build document.....

Jumper the MIDDLE LEFT hole to the BOTTOM LEFT hole. Also....

Jumper the MIDDLE RIGHT hole to the BOTTOM RIGHT hole.

This is when looking at the DPDT switch hole pattern on Page 1 of the build doc.

EDIT: Keep in mind that a lot of the set up and alignment needs to be done in the Filter mode.

robrhy

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on November 18, 2014, 04:14:03 PM
When looking at the build document.....

Jumper the MIDDLE LEFT hole to the BOTTOM LEFT hole. Also....

Jumper the MIDDLE RIGHT hole to the BOTTOM RIGHT hole.

This is when looking at the DPDT switch hole pattern on Page 1 of the build doc.

EDIT: Keep in mind that a lot of the set up and alignment needs to be done in the Filter mode.

So would it be better to leave the switch in until the board is biased,then remove it ?

Govmnt_Lacky

Quote from: robrhy on November 18, 2014, 10:21:11 PM
So would it be better to leave the switch in until the board is biased,then remove it ?

Honestly, I would defer to the build doc. If you feel comfortable doing it AFTER hard wiring to flange mode then by all means... go ahead. Otherwise... put in the switch for the alignment then remove it.

Up to you and what you feel comfortable with.

Scruffie

If you're using a frequency counter, as long as you measure at the slowest sweep when setting the clock, should be close enough, just makes it a little trickier as you have to wait for the sweep to get to the bottom every time you adjust.

If you're doing it by ear anyway, I don't think you'll notice much difference between setting up in flange or matrix mode.
Works at Lectric-FX