Blue Steel LED

[greysun]

Dumb question - I just got a couple blue steel boards.

I did not get any boards for 3PDT switches and was just going to wire it "classic" - which makes me think that I need to manually add a resistor with the LED, where it used to be on the main board and is no longer (or at least so far as I can see in the schematic).

Can someone verify please?

[madbean]

That is correct. You will need to manually wire a CLR if you are not using one of the bypass boards. Most of the designs since 2024 are set up this way to make all the drill spots for the LEDs consistent (16mm to the left of the 3PDT). If you want a bypass board, I'm happy to drop one in the mail to you, no charge.

[greysun]

Ah; see this is what happens when you don't pay attention, hehe...

I'd need 2 of them... and could always shoot a Zelle payment or something... just PM me details.

I gotta wait for my tayda order with my enclosures anyway, so I have a little time before I'm boxing em up. ;-)

[greysun]

Decided to get the board going while I wait on a couple caps and resistors. Just gonna do the keeley mods - was originally gonna socket em, but life's too short.

Of course I ran out of 2k2, so had get a parallel situation going at r10 - worked great with that open space.

Trying to use up some enormous 47u electros in c28 and c27 cause I'll have a little room with the 125b and really just want them gone.

What I thought was a 100ka in my stash was actually a 100kb, and I only had a 9mm 100ka, so got creative to make that work with some perf board and leads, as well as making the 250ka dual gang - this lets me have a little play, but keeps things relatively stable when I'm tightening everything up.

Once I get the foot switch board and enclosures I'll be good to go (I even have some 10kb trimmers - BUT, if in a pinch for future, I assume a 20k is fine, it'll just be harder to hone, yes?)

Thanks again for all this!