Bi-color LED implementation

[Bret608]

Hi everyone,

I'm working on a Wolfshirt that will have the octave on a footswitch. The enclosure I plan to use has just one LED drill hole.

Would it be possible to use one of those bi-color LEDs, so that it's not lit when the effect is in bypass; is one color when just the fuzz is on; and is another color when the octave is on?

Thanks,

Bret

[midwayfair]

Hi everyone,

I'm working on a Wolfshirt that will have the octave on a footswitch. The enclosure I plan to use has just one LED drill hole.

Would it be possible to use one of those bi-color LEDs, so that it's not lit when the effect is in bypass; is one color when just the fuzz is on; and is another color when the octave is on?

Thanks,

Bret

yup. This would be easier if I drew a picture, but here's detailed instructions:

Use a DPDT (or 3PDT, but you'll only be using two rows) for the octave footswitch.

Wire the 2-color LED to the octave footswitch with the anodes on the top and bottom rows of one of the columns. leave the cathode disconnected for now.

Wire the current limiting resistor to the +9v, and run a wire from the other side of the CLR to the center (common) pole of the octave footswitch in the same column that the anodes are on. When you flip the switch, it will provide power to one or the other color.

We still need to connect the cathode. Fortunately, this is how we normally turn an LED on or off, by wiring it to the on/off footswitch such that it's shunted from ground when the effect is off. So you just run a wire from the cathode to the top left of the footswitch (in the madbean standard wiring diagram) like normal.

[jkokura]

Nevermind...

Jacob

[Bret608]

Thanks Jon--that is totally clear. I'll probably make use of a 3PDT wiring board (or maybe even DPDT with Millenium Bypass), but it sounds like I can make the bi-color LED work with that kind of wiring scheme just fine.

The octave switch pads on the PCB will just go to the center of one of the outer lugs on the other (i.e. non-LED) column of the DPDT, right?

[midwayfair]

Thanks Jon--that is totally clear. I'll probably make use of a 3PDT wiring board (or maybe even DPDT with Millenium Bypass), but it sounds like I can make the bi-color LED work with that kind of wiring scheme just fine.

The octave switch pads on the PCB will just go to the center of one of the outer lugs on the other (i.e. non-LED) column of the DPDT, right?

Yes, use a different column. You will need to wire it up exactly as if it was a SPDT. Keep in mind that's basically all a 3PDT is -- three switches next to each other with the same trigger.

IF you're using a switch wiring board, you should have a pad for the LED's negative side. That's where you want to put your cathode's wire.

[Bret608]

I'm all set, now just to pick a color combination!

Don't worry Jacob, we still love you! With folks like Jon jumping in on this thread more often, that will surely free up more of your time for all those lovely PCBs you have in the works! 

[dc001013]

Does anyone mind posting or emailing me a diagram of this with 3pdt, 2pdt and with wiring board? I've always been interested how people do this. I think I understand but a picture says a whole lot more to me. I'm also interested in tri color leds since that's the only ones I've seen at smallbear.

Also, which wiring board do you guys usually use considering you use one and also where do you guys get your multicolor leds?

Any help would be appreciated. I think a drawing of this should be a template.