Desoldering issue OSH PARK pcbs

[teknoman2]

Can somenone give me any tips how to desolder easily components on Osh Park pcbs?
I have a desoldering pump but every time its very difficult to desolder on these pcbs,
Do you think a better desoldering pump will make my life easier?
I have this one,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industry-Solder-Sucker-Desoldering-Pump-Removal-Vacuum-/200965322230

Everything goes well when I desolder my etched pcbs, I am facing this issue only on Osh park pcbs.

[Vallhagen]

I guess this is a through-hole issue, not really an OSH-park issue? Correct me if wrong.

There's nothing wrong with your vacuum pump I guess, but yes it can be tricky. I use a combination of solder braid, vacuum pump and A LOT of swearing ... sometimes it is easier to add some solder before you take it off.

Cheerio

[teknoman2]

Yes its a through hole issue and its not an quality issue of OSH park,
Yesterday I spent 30 min to desolder 2 capacitors and I finaly desolder after a lot of swearing and one finger burning....
I thought it was my fault of using a lot of solder but finally after a lot of try outs I believe its the desolder process its self.
Do you think a desolder iron will make my life easier?

[Vallhagen]

Do you think a desolder iron will make my life easier?

Yea... I guess so. But I never have bothered getting one myself, I consider it a bit overkill. BUT that's just me.

And also: when I desolder 2-legged components (caps, resistors...) I use to cheat: I heat it while pulling one leg out of the hole with a pair of pliers. Then, when the component out of the whole its easy to remove residual tin.

[RobA]

...
And also: when I desolder 2-legged components (caps, resistors...) I use to cheat: I heat it while pulling one leg out of the hole with a pair of pliers. Then, when the component out of the whole its easy to remove residual tin.

I basically do this too with caps and resistors, but I usually don't even try to save them. I just clip the leads off, clamp the forceps on the lead and use their weight to pull the lead out when I heat it. The lead usually takes a bunch of the solder with it. I then use the solder wick to take off enough of the rest of the solder to clear the hole. It's much faster this way and I figure the reduced risk of damaging the PCB is well worth the cost of the wasted part. (I socket any parts that have real value).

[gtr2]

Yeah, two sided boards are much more difficult.

This works well, especially for the cost.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731

But...this works AWESOME.  I bought one about 4 months ago and wish I would have long ago.  I can desolder a cap in 2 seconds flat.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Desoldering-Kit-With-808/dp/B000ARPULW

Josh

[Bret608]

I have a similar pump to you, teknoman2. I start out as Vallhagen and RobA do, but here's my specific technique for clearing the hole once the component is out: I use one of those "third hand" tools to stand the board up vertically. I get a little solder on the tip of my iron and apply it to the pad on one side of the board. Then I place the pump on the other side. Which side doesn't matter; just put the pump on the side where you can get it to be flat on the surface of the board most easily. I usually like to do it on the component side so there's no chance of the iron hitting a component.

Once you see the solder flow, hit the button and that should clear the hole quickly.

[catfud]

I use the same method as Bret608. At times, with too much desoldering and resoldering the desoldering pump has managed to suck the metal pad off the PCB, which is a bummer when it happens, not sure if I'm the only one with that knack...