Deadringer confusion

[Liam]

Hi,

Just finished a build of a Deadringer.  Is the wiring guide for the fabbed version correct on the Boost LED?  I've managed to confuse myself a fair bit looking at the schematic.  It does appear with my build that the Boost control is active when the LED is off, and inactive when it's on.  I've built it as per the wiring guide with very little in the way of subs (470K for 500K and 22K for 25K for Drive and Tone pots).

Aside from that everything seems to function as it should.

Thanks

Liam

[jkokura]

Hi Liam,

Without seeing your build with my own eyes, I think the chances are high you can easily fix this problem. What you need to do is switch which side of the pole your LED attaches to. If you currently have the LED attached to B-1, you need to move it to B-3. Does that make sense?

What's likely happened is that you got the three wires from the boost switch location mixed up. I'd need to see pictures for sure, but I doubt Bean's document is wrong. It could be, because I haven't tried wiring it up. Needless to say, it doesn't matter as just switching the LED wire to the other lug will fix time problem for you.

Jacob

[Liam]

Thanks for that Jacob, I guessed it would just be a case of swapping the LED over to the other pole.  The reason I was confused is that I'm pretty confident I've wired as per the wiring guide, and haven't got the boost switch wires mixed up.

I'll swap it over.

Liam

[dwstanford]

yeah, i had the same problem.  the led should be attached to to pole 3 instead of one.  (bottom instead of top).  that fixed it for me.

[Liam]

Swapped it over now, and all is good, thanks for the replies.

Another question, is the "softer" clipped sound MOSFFET or Silicon?  I know I could check the circuit, but was wondering if anyone knows off the top of their head before I label it up.  I'm guessing the softer one is MOSFET.  The mid boost vs. flat is interesting too - subtler than I'd have thought.

Killer pedal, I wasn't sure if it would be as good as the Fulldrive 2 I got to play with last year, but it seems like very much the same thing.  I jumpered out the "C" of the FCV control as I didn't have the right switch, and don't think I need another clean boost.

I'm fast becoming a huge fan of Mad Bean projects.  5 down, all have worked brilliantly, I've already gigged one of them (Sunking), and I'm guessing at least 2 of them will make it onto my main pedal board soon.

Liam

[dwstanford]

I haven't looked at the schematic lately, but on mine the settings are pretty similar as far as clipping goes.  but the mosfet is a little beefier on the bottom end and a little more compressed.  It sounds a little more like authentic tube amp crunch to me.  The fcv switch on mine is very different on each position.  The flat mids position gives you a soft clipping, fat sounding overdrive and the vintage position is a harder clipping stage, but still very smooth sounding.  I can tell you that this pedal is very responsive to your amp also, though.  I've played it through six different amplifiers and it responds differently on each.  Sometimes the sil/mos switch made no difference in the sound, And sometimes the clipping stages were more defined depending on what I was playing it through.  I noticed that it sounds it's best to me through a tube amp that's just about to break up.

[Liam]

I just stuck a reply on the bottom of your thread in the build reports!  Yes, I think I've got all this the right way around.  What a fabulous sounding pedal it is too.  I've been messing about with an old Princeton Reverb at home, but for live use it will be through a 100 watt Matamp and a 4 x 12 or a 100 watt JMP Marshall.  It's a seriously good OD pedal, rivals the Sunking for just sounding like a quality piece of kit.  I get exactly what your saying about the sensitivity to the switches varying with amp and settings.  I also notice the boost has less and less extreme effect as the gain goes up.

I only ever play through a tube amp that's just getting crunchy, so this is my sort of pedal!

Liam