I'd consider it if we could have a lightweight division. I doubt I could win anything competing against the experienced guys with refined techniques. For one thing I don't know how to do graphix, which is kind of silly I guess since i have photoshop and illustrator skills. I just don't have any idea how to go from pixels to reality...
How would it work anyway? Would everyone build the same project?
I totally get where you are coming from on the graphics. I was in the same boat (and still am to some extent). I use my own modded version of frequencycentral's OHP Transparency Method
http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=6145&start=0&hilit=enclosure+tutorial. Here is what I do for my graphics:
1. I import the drill template page of the project PDF into GIMP (freeware Photoshop-esque program for Mac) at 300dpi (i think).
2. I create a layer on top of the page and label it "Decal." Than with the drill template layer selected I use the elliptical select tool and copy each drill hole and paste it on the "Decal" layer. Then I make a box that is smaller than the border, so that I have some "wiggle room," so that I know where to cut the graphic.
3. I add the actual picture in a layer underneath the "Decal" (so the drill holes are on top of it) and place it where I want and scale it however I need to. Once I have it where I want it, I usually merge that layer with the "Decal" layer.
4. I add and position any text that I need (each word is it's own layer).
5. I print out a test page on regular paper, cut it out and make sure it will fit on top, place the knobs on it to make sure that the text is readable.
6. I then make any adjustments to the text I need, print another test if necessary, and once it's all good I merge everything so that the only layers I have left are "Drill Template" and "Decal."
7. Print the final graphic. Make sure you print it to MIRRORED to the rough side of the transparency.
8. Now that I have the graphic I follow the tutorial in that link, EXCEPT, I have had no luck applying the graphic with just clear coat like he does, so instead I use 3M 77 Spray Adhesive ($10 at home depot). You don't have much time for wiggle room, but it hasn't hurt me yet.
9. Once that's totally dry (it will leave a slightly rough finish, so I mask the sides with blue painters tape), I start applying light coats of clear coat until the clear coat and the graphic are seamless.
10. Once all of that is 100% dry, I take my trusty razor and cut out the holes and start populating the box!
Hope all of that makes sense. If you give it a try and have any questions, let me know!
Ian
