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Hall of Fame switch replacement.

Started by jolly1423, July 02, 2014, 07:16:11 PM

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jolly1423

I have buddy who had the switch crap out on his TC Electronics HoF pedal. He tried to replace it himself but he burned/lifted all the solder pads for the switch lugs. I tried to visually trace where the go to attempt to jumper the lugs to their first destination but I can't make heads or tails of where they are going. For the most part they don't seem to go anywhere. First, would jumping them even work? And if so, does anyone know how to do it or can you point me in the direction of a resource? Thanks!

copachino

we need images; otherwise; a cristal ball will be enough; we cant coment if we cant look; so please upload pictures
Affiliations: madbeanpedals fan and pedal porn lover....

jolly1423

Well I'll have to pull the switch again so I can get a pic of the back side as that's the only place there are any traces that I can see. I'll do so when I get a chance. I just thought someone might have dealt with this pedal before and have the experience or resource already. Wasn't expecting any crystal ball action ;)

copachino

Quote from: jolly1423 on July 03, 2014, 03:52:40 AM
Well I'll have to pull the switch again so I can get a pic of the back side as that's the only place there are any traces that I can see. I'll do so when I get a chance. I just thought someone might have dealt with this pedal before and have the experience or resource already. Wasn't expecting any crystal ball action ;)


jajaja, i know, it was just a woke, but sometimes things are easier with images, so we can see what really happen and where you should rewire
Affiliations: madbeanpedals fan and pedal porn lover....

jolly1423



So on the component side it looks like 1 has a trace to 4 and 2 to 5 which makes no sense to me and I can't see anything else. I numbered the holes for easier reference.

rullywowr

#5
As it turns out, this appears to be a densely packed, 4 layer board which is common with digital circuits such as the HOF.  The through-hole parts which were ripped out most likely connected to copper layers which are sandwiched between other layers.  Normally, you can probe each hole and trace 4-layer circuits with a DMM, but since there is no more copper to do this...it will be pretty much impossible.  You may get lucky if there is any residual copper in the 6 holes and you can fit a dmm probe in there...

Additionally A replacement part can drop in but even IF you knew where to attach wires to other parts of the circuit, it won't stay in the hole since the pads are lifted and there is nothing to solder to. 

EDIT:  I think it may be simpler than I originally thought.  The HOF uses a momentary switch to actuate the bypass.  I would try shorting the two silver "pads" (in the center of the switch) when the unit is powered to see if that switches the effect.  If that is the case, you could possibly use a momentary switch tied to those two pads to switch the effect.  It looks to be a DPDT momentary non latching and that would make perfect sense.



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jolly1423

The simple solution of shorting out those two solder pads didn't work. Throwing in the towel on this one but thanks for the help!