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Gravity Wave (Verified)

Started by selfdestroyer, February 22, 2016, 10:18:55 AM

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plush

#60
Quote from: Boba7 on February 01, 2017, 10:23:19 AM
But it wouldnt be difficult to just take out the rate pot of under the jack and see if the ticking goes away.

And the dust caps protect from contact, but won't do anything again lfo ticking or other interferences.

Hope you get rid of the ticking!!

Even knowing that it won't help, I took everything out. Nothing has changed.

Dust caps... I was not talking about dust caps, but about the potentiometer body. It is made of metal and acts as a shield when connected to the grounded enclosure.

I appreciate your willing to help.
Thanks.

Boba7

Quote from: plush on February 01, 2017, 10:51:14 AM
Quote from: Boba7 on February 01, 2017, 10:23:19 AM
But it wouldnt be difficult to just take out the rate pot of under the jack and see if the ticking goes away.

And the dust caps protect from contact, but won't do anything again lfo ticking or other interferences.

Hope you get rid of the ticking!!

Even knowing that it won't help, I took everything out. Nothing has changed.

Dust caps... I was not talking about dust caps, but about the potentiometer body. It is made of metal and acts as a shield when connected to the grounded enclosure.


Oh yeah you're right... sorry I couldn't help much. Did you try a tl062 or tl022 instead of 072 for the lfo?

plush

#62
Quote from: Boba7 on February 01, 2017, 11:17:29 AM

Oh yeah you're right... sorry I couldn't help much. Did you try a tl062 or tl022 instead of 072 for the lfo?

It uses LM324 for the LFO, not 072s.
I've tried 3 different 324, with no success.

Boba7

Quote from: plush on February 01, 2017, 01:14:30 PM
It uses LM324 for the LFO, not 072s.
I've tried 3 different 324, with no success.

Oups sorry again then!

lars-musik

Quote from: Scruffie on January 27, 2017, 10:59:48 AM
I should think it'd be fine as designed for bass, the signal caps are quite large already and dry signal is always mixed in.

Perhaps increase C1 to 220nF.

pin 4, negative to pin 11.

Thanks very much for your input Scruffie. I realized that there is not much bass loss to be expected from the filtering in the circuit. However, *I think* the depth pot determines the amount of dry signal mixed to the delayed one, and thus creating the chorus sound .If I dial in an especially crazy sound yet want it to be more subtle or less deep, a dry-blend feature is helpful. I finished my built and included this feature and really like the result.


Scruffie

The depth pot is actually a wet level control, but if separate wet and dry controls work for you that's the main thing.

I just noticed something else that I think might be a tracing mistake, C19, usually a cap like that would be found between pins 1 & 2 of the LFO schmitt, not 1 & 3. It forms a low pass filter that can help with tick and smooths out the LFO.
Works at Lectric-FX

pierre67

I just finished mine and it sounds really cool with R9 1K, C9 3,3nF and 2,2µF (MLCC) for C20...Great project !!!

bsoncini

This thread inspired me to build one. Built on veroboard from the layout at the tagboard site.

Still haven't boxed it (missing some of the exact pot values) but sounds real good so far. No ticking even with my wires dangling all over the place.

wainer said

Good night, I made this pedal but it presents a horrible pop when triggered: even without the led! Does anyone have any suggestions?

thank you

selfdestroyer

Quote from: wainer said on January 25, 2018, 11:51:59 PM
Good night, I made this pedal but it presents a horrible pop when triggered: even without the led! Does anyone have any suggestions?

thank you

Are you testing this pedal by itself or with other pedals? I would isolate it with just your guitar and amp.

what are you powering it with? If its a OneSpot, is it the only thing plugged in or is there other pedals using the same chain? Try it with its own power source.

Making sure that R1 is 1M and not 1K or any other value.

All I can think of off the top of my head.

Cody

wainer said

Quote from: selfdestroyer on January 31, 2018, 08:01:31 PM
Quote from: wainer said on January 25, 2018, 11:51:59 PM
Good night, I made this pedal but it presents a horrible pop when triggered: even without the led! Does anyone have any suggestions?

thank you



Are you testing this pedal by itself or with other pedals? I would isolate it with just your guitar and amp.

what are you powering it with? If its a OneSpot, is it the only thing plugged in or is there other pedals using the same chain? Try it with its own power source.

Making sure that R1 is 1M and not 1K or any other value.

All I can think of off the top of my head.

Cody

The only way I found was to put a buffer in the pedal output.

Thanks

Philtre

#71
Just built this, nice. However, the  Rate is a bit fast, so I plan on replacing C20 (470nF). Some people have used 4.7uF and others 1uF. Which is best? I guess that 4.7uF is the slowest rate?

Edit - I used a 4.7uF polarised. That works nicely. :-)

zoof

R9 1K, C9 33nF and 4,7µF for LFO. Works like a charm! Cool pedal!

Philtre

Quote from: zoof on February 24, 2018, 06:42:04 AM
R9 1K, C9 33nF and 4,7µF for LFO. Works like a charm! Cool pedal!

The vero layout at the link above is using R9 1k, but 3.3nF for C9.

zoof

The vero layout at the link above is using R9 1k, but 3.3nF for C9.
[/quote]

I haven't boxed it yet, so maybe I'll try a 3.3nf and see what it does.