Author Topic: Re: 3PDT Breakout Soldering..."Just to Clarify"  (Read 2372 times)

K3yPr0gg3r

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Re: 3PDT Breakout Soldering..."Just to Clarify"
« on: July 28, 2016, 06:54:34 PM »
Hi,

I'm working with breakouts on my 3PDTs, and I want to make sure I'm NOT burning them out when I solder. So, (PhotoRed1), do I solder the entire lug, (sides, hole, inside, etc.), OR (PhotoGreen1) solder the center of the lug and two connection blobs on either side, OR (PhotoYellow1) just put two blobs on either side of the lug? Using Rully, or GTR Pedal.com breakouts. Soldering PCB pins seems to be easier, (Ben's Detour PCB).

Thank you,

somnif

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Re: 3PDT Breakout Soldering..."Just to Clarify"
« Reply #1 on: July 28, 2016, 07:29:23 PM »
As long as there is metal to metal bonding, it doesn't really matter how its looks. When I work with them, I tend to end up with "hole half filled" looking bonds, but thats mostly because I dont feel like pumping 2 inches of solder into each hole.

Think of the width of the leads on components, it doesn't really take a lot of metal to shuttle electrons around. Just make sure the bonds are solid and test for continuity, and it should work out fine.

neandrewthal

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Re: 3PDT Breakout Soldering..."Just to Clarify"
« Reply #2 on: July 28, 2016, 09:22:27 PM »
I go for the fill `er up method, for aesthetic reasons (can`t stand to look at them with only a little solder), to be 110% sure without needing to test and I like shoving 3 inches of solder into them (I use really thin solder).

I think most or all 3PDT stomps are epoxied around the legs anyway so they withstand a bit of extra heat.

Stomptown

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Re: 3PDT Breakout Soldering..."Just to Clarify"
« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2016, 10:04:23 PM »

I think most or all 3PDT stomps are epoxied around the legs anyway so they withstand a bit of extra heat.

But keep in mind, all apoxies are not created equal and some actually melt pretty fast when excess heat is applied.  For that reason I always take my time and let the switch cool down between soldering each lug. 

rullywowr

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Re: 3PDT Breakout Soldering..."Just to Clarify"
« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2016, 08:25:52 AM »
It really is personal preference whether you "fill er up" or just tack one half of the lug.  Either is acceptable.  The most important thing is to not overheat the switch.  I think most of us have done it - you know that feeling when the red epoxy starts becoming fluid again...  I like to run my iron hot (750F) and not spend more than a three count.  If you want to "fill it up" and can't get all of it in 3 seconds, just do half - let it cool and come back to it.

1.  Use a flux pen to coat the 3PDT PCB and lugs liberally with flux (this is optional but helps a lot)
2.  As each column of lugs are connected (vertical columns) use the following pattern to solder in this fashion:

s = soldering this lug

s x x
x x x
x x x

then

x x s
x x x
x x x

then

x s x
x x x
x x x

and so on.  It really doesn't matter how you mix it up..just try NOT to do this (soldering the column vertically in succession).

s x x
s x x  (don't do this!)
s x x

I like to solder with no more than a "3 count" and like Stomptown said...give it maybe 3-5 seconds or more before doing the next lug.





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