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New Octavia build

Started by beneharris, January 25, 2017, 09:06:59 PM

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beneharris

I finally finished the new board, and an etch I did. The only thing I used that I didn't put together was the 3pdt board (thanks Ben from rullywow).

Boy has this been a learning experience. I originally had this measured out for a 1590b but forgot to measure it vertically. So I had to do a 125b. It's slightly too big. I might pick up a few of Peter from vfe's new Hammond size as that would be perfect.

The etch still needs work, and I need to find some bitchin knobs. But I'm pleased otherwise. Fired up first try. I got a bag of 1k pn3565 on ebay, so I have those in with some 2n3565s to see the difference. I can't hear any. The hfes match as close as I can and the sound is indistinguishable to my ears, which is nice because now I don't have to spend $3 each!









JackSkellington

It is nice!
One switch is for the Fuzz/OctaFuzz. What about the other two switches?

Thanks. ;)
«Just because I cannot see it doesn't mean I can't believe it»

beneharris

Quote from: JackSkellington on January 26, 2017, 01:33:58 AM
It is nice!
One switch is for the Fuzz/OctaFuzz. What about the other two switches?

Thanks. ;)

Thanks!
The one further left is to swap between two sets of transistors. The middle is to swap between two sets of diodes.

bcalla


Timko

Was the issue with your etch that the top and side words didn't transfer to the enclosure or that they didn't completely etch? 

beneharris

Quote from: Timko on January 26, 2017, 09:30:58 AM
Was the issue with your etch that the top and side words didn't transfer to the enclosure or that they didn't completely etch?

They didn't transfer well enough. I ordered a brayer because I'm sick of that happening.

Timko

That's a good call.  The other things I do when doing etch transfers

* Sand the enclosure down with 400/600 grit paper to smooth out any imperfections.  Clean with naptha afterwards
* Use good glossy presentation paper
* Leave the iron on for a long time.  I bet mine sit there for between 20 and 30 minutes.
* Let the enclosure totally cool before soaking it in water.  That lets the ink totally separate from the paper.
* Use your fingers and a 3M pad to remove the paper after it's soaked.  The ink is pretty attached and removes only with steel wool.

Leevibe

That looks rad Ben. Nice job!

bluescage


kaycee

Looks good, nice ideas on the switching, something different.

beneharris

Quote from: Timko on January 27, 2017, 08:06:29 AM
That's a good call.  The other things I do when doing etch transfers

* Sand the enclosure down with 400/600 grit paper to smooth out any imperfections.  Clean with naptha afterwards
* Use good glossy presentation paper
* Leave the iron on for a long time.  I bet mine sit there for between 20 and 30 minutes.
* Let the enclosure totally cool before soaking it in water.  That lets the ink totally separate from the paper.
* Use your fingers and a 3M pad to remove the paper after it's soaked.  The ink is pretty attached and removes only with steel wool.

Thanks for the tip, I got my brayer in the mail the other day, so I'm going to give the etch another shot. Do you leave your iron on constantly? Mine seems to have a feature where it shuts down when it gets to a certain temperature, so a "cheaper" iron may be in order.

beneharris

I appreciate all the kind words, everybody.