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BOSS CE1 PROJECT: MN3002 or TDA1022P: DOC UPLOADED

Started by drog_trog, March 14, 2018, 01:09:54 PM

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skyled

Here is what drog_trog sent me about wiring up the stereo output jacks:

Quote
you need a 4 pin jack
Tip
Sleeve
ring & Ring

The 2 rings are 'open' so that when a jack is inserted the 2 rings connect. Im struggling to remember the part number tho

To me, this is still clear as mud. I don't think this is how it works in the original Boss CE1 either.

skumberg

Just use a spdt switch if you can't find a jack. This way you could use that switch as a wet only switch. When the switch connects the grey and red wire, this will remove the dry signal from the mono jack leaving wet only. Connect the stereo jack tip at junction R49 between R52, this is your dry out stereo signal. So now your stereo jack will always give you a dry signal and your mono jack can give you wet/dry or wet only. This might be useful when recording. You can have the wet and dry to different channels.

Another popular mod is fake stereo when you invert the wet signal and feed that to the stereojack. Tonepad has this listed for the small clone I think.


madbean

I'd kinda like to take a crack at this as a project, but probably only a TDA1022 version. I've never even had an MN3004 in my possession.

RDL68

Quote from: marcinzera on March 08, 2019, 09:26:03 PM
Quote from: dani965 on March 03, 2019, 02:50:28 PM
Quote from: RDL68 on February 17, 2019, 06:40:00 PM
Quote from: marcinzera on February 17, 2019, 01:20:17 PM
Hello,

it's possible to buy somewhere PCB's?

He's on ebay selling the PCB's :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CE1-CLONE-PCB-KING-OF-CHORUS-USES-THE-TDA1022-512-BBD/254107550399?hash=item3b29fd82bf:g:8pQAAOSwm-FcKVxP:rk:11:pf:0


Bought him a PCB in august, never arrived.

Meaby somewhere is PCB layout to download?

Build DOC is in the first post of this thread.

It looks like the link above to buy the TDA1022P version PCB's has expired, so here is a link to all drog_trog's stuff on ebay & at the time of writing the CE1 PCB's are still available with everything else he's selling :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?item=254155604505&ViewItem=&_ssn=dfx_pedz&rt=nc

As for mine, I already drilled an enclosure last year to include various mods. I only ever got it working without any mods before moving on to other stuff, so I bought another enclosure to drill without the extra switch & pot holes. I might just leave it at that for my TDA version.
My MN3002 version can live in the "to do later" pile indefinitely & unboxed. I might revisit it one day if I end up with a few more MN3002's, but they're not worth paying overs for when there's an easier alternative. Also they sound the same to me, so it's more a case of what you have on hand (or can get).

kaeisy

Quote from: madbean on March 09, 2019, 02:00:19 AM
I'd kinda like to take a crack at this as a project, but probably only a TDA1022 version. I've never even had an MN3004 in my possession.
That would be great, Brian  8)!

peAk

Quote from: kaeisy on March 09, 2019, 07:20:12 PM
Quote from: madbean on March 09, 2019, 02:00:19 AM
I'd kinda like to take a crack at this as a project, but probably only a TDA1022 version. I've never even had an MN3004 in my possession.
That would be great, Brian  8)!

+Juan

madbean

Did anyone save the TDA1022 version of the project documentation?

RDL68

Quote from: madbean on March 11, 2019, 03:15:32 PM
Did anyone save the TDA1022 version of the project documentation?

There's only the one project DOC to use for both. All part numbers (& part count) are identical, no part changes whatsoever, apart from the different BBD's.
The only difference between versions is MN3002 is a 14pin chip & the TDA1022P is a 16pin chip, which resulted in a couple of parts being slightly re-positioned on the PCB. Obviously there'd also be a few changes to the PCB traces around the BBD's due to the different pinouts.

Earlier in the year Scruffie pointed out that the voltage requirement of the respective BBD's is very close but not identical. In most cases it would be fine, but due to the slight variance in tolerance from one chip to the next from the same batch (similar to how a batch of 100uf capacitors can measure anywhere from 80 to 120 or the hfe of transistors vary from one to the next), there may be rare instances where one particular chip may sound like it isn't quite tuned in well enough (& no trimpot in the CE1 design to tune in the BBD). Simply swapping it for another chip would likely sort it out as it would only rarely happen within the extreme end of the range. Ideally a resistor or two could possibly be replaced with a trimpot to better take care of it so it never happens at all.

madbean

#130
Thanks a lot for the info. So, it looks like the input of the BBD, MN3002 or TDA1022 is just fixed bias between +/-14v with a 100k limiter. So, I think a 100k trimmer/10k resistor between those two rails would do the trick and then lose some of the fixed resistors in the process to simplify it. The thing that was throwing me off is the MN3002 has a "bias" pin which the TDA1022 does not. But, I think it's just a matter of ignoring that connection on the TDA.

I think I know enough now to work it out. I think I could make a small conversion PCB to fit either BBD on the same board, too. Anyway, I'll strat a separate thread when I have something to show. Don't wanna derail this one with my own nonsense.

Ricotjuh

I have made my own pcb with the information that can be found here in this topic. However, there is a very large noise that fluctuates on the settings of the Chorus and Vibrato. This already happens without an input signal. I supply the pedal with a 12V adapter. No switched power supply. People who might have had more problems with this?

Scruffie

Works at Lectric-FX

Ricotjuh

Quote from: Scruffie on December 09, 2019, 01:42:23 PM
What kind of noise? Hiss? Chirps? Whine?

I will make a sound clip later this evening. Can hardly describe it. Perhaps a sound clip says more.