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Anybody heard of using Future floor polish on pedals?

Started by gordo, November 30, 2020, 11:15:21 PM

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gordo

These are printed right on the pedal so not sure the ink but it's not soluble.  I've been doing the same with laser printed decals.
Gordy Power
How loud is too loud?  What?

gordo

Here's one I did last night.  It's a laser decal.



Outside of the fact that I had the text too close to the knobs you can see that tightening down the footswitch knob raised the decal at the bottom.  I pin-holed it and brushed on more floor polish but can't get it to settle down.  Up around the toggle switch I was much more careful and didn't disturb it.

Still, I think it's a clean and non-smelly alternative.  I'd think if you have a sprayed topcoat on the decals you'd be fine.  The floor polish shouldn't attack the topcoat on the decal.  But then again...you're still spraying that smelly topcoat...
Gordy Power
How loud is too loud?  What?

jimilee

Quote from: gordo on December 19, 2020, 03:52:57 PM
Here's one I did last night.  It's a laser decal.



Outside of the fact that I had the text too close to the knobs you can see that tightening down the footswitch knob raised the decal at the bottom.  I pin-holed it and brushed on more floor polish but can't get it to settle down.  Up around the toggle switch I was much more careful and didn't disturb it.

Still, I think it's a clean and non-smelly alternative.  I'd think if you have a sprayed topcoat on the decals you'd be fine.  The floor polish shouldn't attack the topcoat on the decal.  But then again...you're still spraying that smelly topcoat...
The labeling is probably my most common error. Is that like a keenly green teeth or some other funky chorus?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex.  All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

mauman

Quote from: Brad Hill on December 19, 2020, 06:32:24 AM
Are these inkjet or laser prints on the waterslide decals?  Just curious to know if the Pledge reacts with the ink.  Am I safe in assuming you'd still have to do mist coats over inkjet?
I use laser, haven't tried it with inkjet, I would assume you still have to mist it since inkjet is water soluble while laser toner isn't.

mauman

Quote from: gordo on December 19, 2020, 03:52:57 PM
Here's one I did last night.  It's a laser decal... tightening down the footswitch knob raised the decal at the bottom...
Gordy, is that the same as laser water slide paper?  If so, have you tried baking the decal to adhere it?  The waterslide I use can take up to 300 degrees F or so, I bake it there for 30 minutes when I apply one directly over powder coat, or at 200 F when applied over spray paint (I talked to RustOleum and they said that's the max for the automotive enamel I use sometimes.)  Really helps adhesion, better than the solvent/vinegar stuff. Then I apply the Pledge, let it cure and populate the box.  Mike

davent

Quote from: jimilee on December 19, 2020, 04:38:30 PM
Quote from: gordo on December 19, 2020, 03:52:57 PM
Here's one I did last night.  It's a laser decal.



Outside of the fact that I had the text too close to the knobs you can see that tightening down the footswitch knob raised the decal at the bottom.  I pin-holed it and brushed on more floor polish but can't get it to settle down.  Up around the toggle switch I was much more careful and didn't disturb it.

Still, I think it's a clean and non-smelly alternative.  I'd think if you have a sprayed topcoat on the decals you'd be fine.  The floor polish shouldn't attack the topcoat on the decal.  But then again...you're still spraying that smelly topcoat...
The labeling is probably my most common error. Is that like a keenly green teeth or some other funky chorus?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's where the vector pak comes in handy, place the knobs on your artwork then fit the lettering to the knobs, delete the knob before printing. Then its just a matter of putting the decal on the enclosure straight.
dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown

If my photos are missing again... they're hosted by photobucket... and as of 06/2017 being held hostage... to be continued?

jimilee

Quote from: davent on December 19, 2020, 05:55:47 PM
Quote from: jimilee on December 19, 2020, 04:38:30 PM
Quote from: gordo on December 19, 2020, 03:52:57 PM
Here's one I did last night.  It's a laser decal.



Outside of the fact that I had the text too close to the knobs you can see that tightening down the footswitch knob raised the decal at the bottom.  I pin-holed it and brushed on more floor polish but can't get it to settle down.  Up around the toggle switch I was much more careful and didn't disturb it.

Still, I think it's a clean and non-smelly alternative.  I'd think if you have a sprayed topcoat on the decals you'd be fine.  The floor polish shouldn't attack the topcoat on the decal.  But then again...you're still spraying that smelly topcoat...
The labeling is probably my most common error. Is that like a keenly green teeth or some other funky chorus?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's where the vector pak comes in handy, place the knobs on your artwork then fit the lettering to the knobs, delete the knob before printing. Then its just a matter of putting the decal on the enclosure straight.
dave
Yeah, that's where the lazy comes in. Ah, it'll be alright....sometimes my brain tricks me into thinking the label is way too low.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex.  All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

gordo

Honestly, I've been doing this long enough that you'd think I'd figure it out.  I'll try the knob trick though because I really only use a few different sizes.

Jimi, this one is the PedalPCB Caesar, which is a clone of the Walrus Audio Julia.  I blatantly ripped of the graphics.  It's a nice variation on the CE-2 with added blend, the option to use Sine or Triangle for the LFO, and a nice touch is being able to set the delay time (which kinda pushes it into the BF-2 flanger zone).  As long as I've been hanging around here I've never built up a PorkBarrel.  It's on the bench now and I'm looking forward to comparing them.  My original CE-2 got sold a very long time ago.
Gordy Power
How loud is too loud?  What?

jimilee

Quote from: gordo on December 19, 2020, 07:07:46 PM
Honestly, I've been doing this long enough that you'd think I'd figure it out.  I'll try the knob trick though because I really only use a few different sizes.

Jimi, this one is the PedalPCB Caesar, which is a clone of the Walrus Audio Julia.  I blatantly ripped of the graphics.  It's a nice variation on the CE-2 with added blend, the option to use Sine or Triangle for the LFO, and a nice touch is being able to set the delay time (which kinda pushes it into the BF-2 flanger zone).  As long as I've been hanging around here I've never built up a PorkBarrel.  It's on the bench now and I'm looking forward to comparing them.  My original CE-2 got sold a very long time ago.
Wow, sounds neat. I've never built the pork barrel either (that I can remember anyway), but I did build the BYOC chorus, which sounds fantastic on bass. It started on my board the whole time I was gigging. I used it on slow songs to kind of fill space in a 3 piece band.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex.  All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

Bio77

Damn you!  Now I have to build this one  ;D

Looking good!  8)  Do you know if the floor polish flakes off?  Pedals that I have sprayed with clear get flaky after a few month on my board.  It's pretty cool that you can put this stuff on without tearing the pedal down.  Thanks for the report.

mauman

Quote from: Bio77 on December 19, 2020, 11:51:33 PM
Do you know if the floor polish flakes off?  Pedals that I have sprayed with clear get flaky after a few month on my board...
I haven't had any problems with flaking and I have some that are more than 2 years old. As Gordy says, it's not as tough as polyurethane.  It also softens with alcohol and you can strip it with ammonia, but it applies better than poly.  BTW, I've also stripped Minwax polyurethane and Minwax polycrylic with 100% ammonia.  Mike