I honestly can’t believe how easy it was to diagnose the issue using the audio probe. I thought it would be this long, arduous process. I checked the rest of the main PCB and it’s solid. So…it would be possible to wire the 2 foot switches, 2 resistors, 1 cap, true/buffered bypass switch, and LEDs without using the PCB foot switch, right? It’s just a matter of following the traces to their respective components and probably some jumpers and wiring to the foot switches? I am so determined to get this thing working before the weekends’ done. The new episode of the JHS Show is entitled, ‘You Need A Phaser.’ It’s taunting me.
It would probably be easier just to wire it as true bypass and leave it at that.
If you want to repro the whole thing, first I'd try just correcting any issue on the pcb with jumpers. Unless you totally toasted it, that would be easiest. Otherwise, you could mount the slider switch and other components to perfboard or stripboard. The tricky thing there is getting all your solders and jumper on without the grounding out once you mount the switch. I haven't looked but I'm guessing the switch isn't chassis mounted, only pcb mounted. If that's the case, also a problem.
If it were me, if I could fix the board with jumpering, I'd just put one switch in as true bypass and try and get another board. But if you have some perfboard and spare components, wouldn't hurt to try.
Curious if you overheated your switches initially. I caution to only do one lug and let it cool.
Good luck and happy you got it nearly sorted.
