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Fun with 3D printing…

Started by greysun, September 09, 2025, 03:06:03 PM

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greysun

I just got a distortion 3 board at the suggestion of another board member (thank you [mention]Bret608 [/mention] !) and had a TON of non-knurled 9mm pots.

I also got a 3D printer last weekend, so of course I said "I bet I could modify a Davies 1900 to better fit alongside these 1510s..." and so I did. By my preliminary tests on a blank board not in an enclosure, it looks like they'll work great.

With the side cutouts and the leftover 1900 tapered ridges, they fit well and seemingly will be easy to maneuver alongside the 1510s, which they won't be visually too "off" next to. Anyway, attached is the initial successful print - future ones will be in proper materials...

Gets me wondering: anyone here make cool stuff with their 3D printers?




jessenator

Very cool! That modified knob looks very nice. What will your final material be? 

I've done a few things, must not as successful as your knob 😅 did a decent drill guide, but took a couple tries. Also did some socket tools, but the PLA has softened and the 1/2"/foot switch socket is a bit dented. Not sure PETG will fair better, but haven't really gotten the ol Ender 3 out in a while. Might save the higher temps for winter!
"All you need is fuzz"   ~not Lennon

greysun

Quote from: jessenator on September 09, 2025, 03:23:44 PMVery cool! That modified knob looks very nice. What will your final material be?

I've done a few things, must not as successful as your knob 😅 did a decent drill guide, but took a couple tries. Also did some socket tools, but the PLA has softened and the 1/2"/foot switch socket is a bit dented. Not sure PETG will fair better, but haven't really gotten the ol Ender 3 out in a while. Might save the higher temps for winter!

Final material will probably be PLA of some kind that's a little less matte - the PETG I have is pretty matte (of course, I just looked at the PLA cream color I got for these knobs and it's PLA matte LOL - maybe I can clear coat em). For knobs I don't think they'll be as affected by UV or heat, which is what typically causes the warping/discoloration (so I'm told). PETG so far has been okay, but I can tell it's a bit more "touchy" in the printer, even with a filament dryer going. I got it for some HVAC vents in our condo, but did the knob quick with it cause it already loaded in the printer.

I have a small one (Bambu a1 mini) - but I'm hoping to make pickguard forms (I'll have to find creative ways of interlocking several pieces together), some pickup covers (I like what Novak does with his JM pickups, which I'll keep buying from him, but I have some ideas for ones he doesn't make), and little bits and bobs like a clip for a whammy on a mustang bridge or a custom telecaster plate.

would love to print one of those potentiometer/knob guages to tighten the knobs in their proper place, but can't find any plans for that. I've seen plans online for stompboxes, but I fear the foot of heaviness - I'd want a LOT of cross bracing under the hood for that to happen, and even then I'd fear warping or something weird.

If there's a non-Fusion program you're using for modeling, I'd love to hear about it - the internet is full of contradictions for which one to use, hehe...

jessenator

Quote from: greysun on September 09, 2025, 04:59:16 PMwould love to print one of those potentiometer/knob guages to tighten the knobs in their proper place, but can't find any plans for that
I've been thinking about this one, actually. Alpha's datasheet says 300* total rotation area, so it shouldn't be hard to make that work. I'll take a crack at it this week.

Quote from: greysun on September 09, 2025, 04:59:16 PMif there's a non-Fusion program you're using for modeling, I'd love to hear about it
I have the least engineering-est way I do models. If needed I'll use Illustrator for precise drawings/details, and then I import the EPS into Maya (it's what I learned on 20 years ago). 

I've done other non-music parts, in fact I need to print one again: this shower head bracket snapped pretty cleanly, so I was able to caliper measure it accurately.

As far as enclosures, I've done them, but I think they're more valuable as building platforms/templates than final housings. Injection molded ABS is about as sturdy as it gets with plastics. Never had good luck with PLA or PETG enclosures. And RF blocking is a serious issue as well: put a Cornish in one and it just screamed until I lined the inside with alumin(i)um foil.
"All you need is fuzz"   ~not Lennon

greysun

Quote from: jessenator on September 09, 2025, 07:56:59 PM
Quote from: greysun on September 09, 2025, 04:59:16 PMwould love to print one of those potentiometer/knob guages to tighten the knobs in their proper place, but can't find any plans for that
I've been thinking about this one, actually. Alpha's datasheet says 300* total rotation area, so it shouldn't be hard to make that work. I'll take a crack at it this week.

Quote from: greysun on September 09, 2025, 04:59:16 PMif there's a non-Fusion program you're using for modeling, I'd love to hear about it
I have the least engineering-est way I do models. If needed I'll use Illustrator for precise drawings/details, and then I import the EPS into Maya (it's what I learned on 20 years ago).

I've done other non-music parts, in fact I need to print one again: this shower head bracket snapped pretty cleanly, so I was able to caliper measure it accurately.

As far as enclosures, I've done them, but I think they're more valuable as building platforms/templates than final housings. Injection molded ABS is about as sturdy as it gets with plastics. Never had good luck with PLA or PETG enclosures. And RF blocking is a serious issue as well: put a Cornish in one and it just screamed until I lined the inside with alumin(i)um foil.
Ooooh - If you make one of those knob tools (giggity), I'd love the stl file. I was looking into it, but some pots say 270 degrees and others say 300, and then I got distracted and never looked at the data sheets... still tho! Would love it!

Still trying to think about what else this thing could help me make in the music area - cord management, pedalboard accessories... if anyone's seen something or done it, let me know while this printer is still an exciting novelty to me! Hehe...

jessenator

"All you need is fuzz"   ~not Lennon

jessenator

Alright here's the alignment "fork" part.

Tried to make it as condensed as possible for really narrow control spacing.

You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.

It should also be large enough to accommodate 22mm knobs

Still thinking about the block portion whether to have a screw anchor or whatever.
"All you need is fuzz"   ~not Lennon

greysun

Quote from: jessenator on September 11, 2025, 09:59:23 PMAlright here's the alignment "fork" part.

Tried to make it as condensed as possible for really narrow control spacing.

You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.

It should also be large enough to accommodate 22mm knobs

Still thinking about the block portion whether to have a screw anchor or whatever.
Ooooh, looks great! Yea, a bolt and block would be good. One side angled slightly for enclosures with an angle (I think they're usually the same angle?), and one side straight otherwise. I just made a 9/16-24 nut for a rehouse project I'll post about in the builds thread, but I looked up how to use Blender and this bolts plugin they have - it was pretty easy to follow and make something once I knew the conversions (of course, my 'bolt', which was an amp LED jewel housing, was ever so slightly TOO big, but I was able to get it after a few tries). Even modded it to hold the LED in place. Yea!

Could be easy enough to make a block that way maybe?