Rub-a-Dub Reverb (Long Brick) w/ Video Demo

[whitebread47]

Here's the second Rub-a-Dub I've built.  This one has the long-brick unit in it.  Just a simple matte black enclosure w/ aluminum knob.  I used a 15k in R5 and there is a subtle boost when engaged.

I somehow accidentally drilled the DC tap in an awkward spot (upper left side), so I heatshrunk the connections to avoid any possible shorting out from the board.  This turned out to not be too much of a problem, as I accidentally ordered the long-pin PCB mount pot, so the board sits kind of high and just clears the DC jack.

Though there's not as much difference between the short and long bricks as I had assumed, the long brick seems to sound more hall like at lower setting than the short one.

This is the first build where I used only one color of wire for the most part (it would have been too confusing a few months ago).  Also my first time "teepee'ing" resistors.





Here's a video I recorded with my iphone.

[nzCdog]

Hmmm.... sounds tasty
Nice build and thanks for the demo

[wolfingsworth]

Well done! Nice finish and great sound!

[Om_Audio]

I am ordering parts for this build but how do you decide what types of caps to use? I see you used ceramic, elec, and that orange one for C1.
Thanks
C

[whitebread47]

I am ordering parts for this build but how do you decide what types of caps to use? I see you used ceramic, elec, and that orange one for C1.
Thanks
C

If you look at the board layout, the silkscreen shapes around the cap pads sort of suggest the type of cap to use.  Generally, I use electrolytics where polarized caps are needed and ceramics for anything measuring in the pf range and film for everything else.

[Om_Audio]

Thanks.
Maybe you could help with these questions too-
1. C1 is "22n" - but all I see on Mammoth is uf rated caps- what is equiv?
http://www.mammothelectronics.com/Vikiin-Polyester-Film-Box-Capacitors-p/300b-mmk5.htm
2. R11 is listed as 33R, is that just a typo to mean 33k?
3. Caps voltages, can I use whatever as long as it is above 12v? Will using 100v be bad for example?
Thx again,
C

[whitebread47]

Sure.  These were all questions I had myself just a few months ago.

1. 22n(f) is the same as 0.022uf.  Basically, I move whatever the nf reading is three decimal places to remember, such as 470n = .47 and 3n3 (or 3.3n, same thing) = .0033 and so on.  Here's a code chart I saved when I was trying to figure all this out: http://www.csgnetwork.com/capcodeinfo.html

2.  33R would be 33 Ohms.  This was confusing to me at first as well.

3.  Most caps I use are about 16v or more.  Since this reverb runs on 9v, anything 16v or above should be fine, but I usually buy 25v caps or higher just so that I can use them in higher voltage builds I might do.  I've used a lot of 25v and 35v electrolytics from Mammoth, though Tayda is much cheaper if seeking bulk.

100v is fine voltage-wise, as that's more of a handling rating as I understand it.  I've used Mammoth's 100v polyfilm caps a lot as well as the 63v box film caps no problem, though the box ones will fit better.  I wouldn't go with very high voltage caps like the 630v or the orange drop caps because the leads are spaced further apart.  Generally, the smaller the voltage rating the more likely it will fit an effects PCB, just make sure they're rated a little higher than what the effect runs on.  Though there are some exceptions, this is true for Mammoth's stock if that's where you're buying all your components.

Hope this helps!

[Om_Audio]

Parts ordered, thanks SO much for your help!
C

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

Very nice sounds on your demo! I'm really gassing to grab a few boards and build one of each!