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Mutron's rotary switch

Started by midwayfair, October 26, 2012, 06:35:35 PM

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midwayfair

Brian, is there a reason this can't be a single pole rotary? Looks like 1 node four throws. Am I missing something?

madbean

Yes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.

Haberdasher

and to piggyback 1 more question about the mutron in here....how crucial are the 1n8 values c6 & c9?  is 1n5 OK?
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midwayfair

Quote from: madbean on October 26, 2012, 06:55:58 PM
Yes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.

Yeah, I don't think the prices are any different ... I just have both here.

Thanks. :)

madbean

Quote from: Haberdasher on October 26, 2012, 07:03:06 PM
and to piggyback 1 more question about the mutron in here....how crucial are the 1n8 values c6 & c9?  is 1n5 OK?

In this case I'd say "moderately critical". It won't ruin the effect, obviously, but the values used are chosen to emulate vocal formants, I believe. You could put small ceramics in parallel with a 1n5...300pF or close to that.

midwayfair

1.5 makes it a little bright in the higher range settings, but it doesn't sound bad. Definitely loses some beef in the lowest range settings. I did brian's suggestion and just soldered some 300pF caps on the bottom of the board until my next parts order arrives.

This thing sounds great, Brian. Swirly, gigantic sweeps. The higher gain settings remind me of the organ in The Band's "Chest Fever."

jubal81

"If you put all the knobs on your amplifier on 10 you can get a much higher reaction-to-effort ratio with an electric guitar than you can with an acoustic."
- David Fair

madbean

Good call. Personally, I do prefer the rotary in this case mainly cause I like having a chicken head knob on there :)

But, yeah, an OnOnOn should do the trick if you like toggles.

MIM#1

#8
Ok, looks like the rotary switch isnt going to fit in my enclosure  :-[ [I'm using an old VOX auto wah shell, those funky triangular things.The guyatone crossover box circuit that was in it really sounds terrible[ kindof a low-output Dr. Q + tone suck  ;)] ,so I'm ok with altering this enclosure as it will be perfect for the Mutron III!]
I think I can follow the above diagram using a Dpdt on/on/on but specifically, which 3 wires from the nautilus are output one,two and three?
Brian, maybe you could include this option in your PDF as its a way more common part and a better option where space is at a premium.
Thanks for your help everybody!

madbean

In is "A", HP is OUT1, BP is OUT2 and LP is OUT3.

MIM#1

#10
Crystal clear now  8)

MIM#1

#11
One final [I hope] question....
If I wanted to just hard-wire it to the bandpass setting, how would I go about it?

Never mind, looks like you just connect A to BP  ::)

MIM#1





Ok, My Mutron build is complete and It fired right up 8)
Since I used a vintage enclosure I didnt want to do any drilling, so I opted for the sweep and volume pots to be trimmers, and the hi/low and range switches to be board mounted. The volume pot is all the way off and theres still a bit of boost so I'd like to ask how I can lower the volume just a hair.Its actually pretty cool as is as theres a slight boost when activated which helps those garcia type licks stand out a bit. The photo shows it hardwired for low pass but I've since settled on the bandpass setting as its the closest to the guitars original tone and funky as hell.  ;D
What a great sounding filter, Thanks MADBEAN!

Haberdasher

man does that look awesome
you should make a build report!
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Now carrying Matched JFETS

jkokura

Heck yeah! Repurposing enclosure for the WIN! I love how that enclosure looks like it was MADE for this project. I also really like you're creativeness in using non-typical parts for the sweep and switch parts.

One thought I had - perhaps replace the wire that hardwires you into LP mode with inline sockets for the HP/BP/LP pads. Then you could easily 'pick your pass' using the wire to just poke into the socket spot you want.

However, that would leave things a little prone to failure because the wire could fall out, so perhaps using something else to do so would be better?

Jacob
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