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Help, did my friend fry my Lowrider

Started by glops, November 05, 2012, 06:59:45 PM

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glops

I let my friend borrow a couple of pedals for recording but he said he didn't use them because he didn't have the right power supply. Now that they are returned my Lowrider has a weird power problem. I measured the jack with my one spot and got no reading. I changed out the DC jack and have the same issue when I connect the 9v wire coming from the board to the jack. When I disconnect it, I get a good 9volt reading. Now, if my friend "accidentally" used a power supply with way too many volts would fried components cause this to happen? It seems like i would still get a proper measurement when the 9v wire was connected. This is annoying.

Thanks for any help,
Richard

TwistdDeth

He could have use the wrong polarity, like center positive instead of center negative. Just a thought.
Select, bend, trim, place, solder, repeat

Om_Audio

Quote from: TwistdDeth on November 06, 2012, 02:02:46 PM
He could have use the wrong polarity, like center positive instead of center negative. Just a thought.

Learning about the polarity markings on power supplies and pedals changed my life. And has since saved the lives of more than a few pedals and devices since! Also learning mA ratings are "flexible" was liberating.
:)
Hope you get it sorted,
C
Sent via soup cans and string.

jkokura

If it were just the wrong polarity, it could just be a fried diode. Check the polarity protection diode first.

Jacob
JMK Pedals - Custom Pedal Creations
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Om_Audio

Quote from: jkokura on November 06, 2012, 03:06:27 PMCheck the polarity protection diode first.

Jacob

Is a polarity protection diode standard on most projects? Good to know if so! Sorry for the interruption.
C
Sent via soup cans and string.

eldanko

Quote from: Om_Audio on November 06, 2012, 03:36:56 PM
Quote from: jkokura on November 06, 2012, 03:06:27 PMCheck the polarity protection diode first.

Jacob

Is a polarity protection diode standard on most projects? Good to know if so! Sorry for the interruption.
C

Yep.  It's D1 on most of the MadBean projects - 99% of the time a 1N4001 on the BOM.  Definitely look there for signs of trouble first!
www.danekinser.com - Music, Builds, other nonsense

madbean

In the case of the LR, it's actually D7 and it is a 1n4148. Lift that out and try powering it up. If it works, just replace that diode. BTW: 1N4001 is fine there, too.

glops

Thanks, guys. I'll try D7 tomorrow. I hope that's it, I really love that pedal and would hate to bury it!

TwistdDeth

Quote from: Om_Audio on November 06, 2012, 02:13:06 PM
Quote from: TwistdDeth on November 06, 2012, 02:02:46 PM
He could have use the wrong polarity, like center positive instead of center negative. Just a thought.

Learning about the polarity markings on power supplies and pedals changed my life. And has since saved the lives of more than a few pedals and devices since! Also learning mA ratings are "flexible" was liberating.
:)
Hope you get it sorted,
C

I learned my lesson the hard way with a Dr. Rock O.D. I bought a wall wart that came without the secondary plug. I got confused as to which wire was positive, I thought the Striped wire was negative. Plugged in the Dr. Rock to test it, psssffffffffttttt and a little puff of smoke marked the death of the Doc.
Select, bend, trim, place, solder, repeat

glops

Aha! I finally got back to it tonight. Lifted D7, no dice. Reflowed some joints. One of the IC sockets was accidentally unsoldered. Still nothing.

THEN, I noticed my 220 uf cap was rated at 6.3 volts! Replaced it and then I finally got something with the circuit engaged. Lots of whining ang hiss. Replaced the ICs and bingo! My fup from the beginning actually helped in the long run. Before, the circuit had some weird flubbing subsonic noise and now the pedal sounds like it sound and really good!

Om_Audio

Sent via soup cans and string.