Messages

Thanks,

I will post up voltages for all IC's tonight and check all parts again.

I have tried two sets of IC's both from Dr Tweek who seems a very reputable top bloke.

EDIT - VOLTAGES

tlo72      
1   1.8 varying to 5
2   3.9   
3   2.7 varying to 4.8
4   0   
5   3.8   
6   2.8   
7   2 varying to 4.6
8   7.8   

4558d   
1   6.15
2   6.15
3   6.05
4   0
5   5.88
6   5.88
7   5.88
8   7.8

mn3101   
1   7.8
2   4
3   0
4   4
5   0.5
6   6.8
7   6.8
8   0.25
mn3007   
1   7.8
2   4
3   5.15
4   0.5
5   5.2
6   5.18
7   3.95
8   0

^Arghhhh,  I finished my Sea Urchin last night and above halfway on the delay it sounds terrible and motorboats.  Also i built the one chip chorus and that has troubles so I guess my PT2399's from Tayda are s*** as well. Only bought 3 though.  Not glad that you have 20 that are rubbish but by posting you have saved me a lot of messing around ..so a big THANK YOU.

Wired the ground in and tried with single coils. Still exactly the same. 

The tayda site had been down for maintenance the last couple of days so hopefully they are just getting it back up and running

Thanks 

I have tripple checked all parts but we all know once you have made an error sometimes you just can't see it.  I did some voltages yesterday and those on the 4558 looked high compared to some posted by Lacesensor in another thread.  I have an  audio probe built into my test rig so will give that a go but I am not great at following a circuit.

There is a ground at the bottom but I will wire in the one at the top as well.

I built the 3007 version and yes I have been using Humbuckers.  I will get my Strat out and give that a try

Some pictures - Its not boxed up and there is no switching.  The pots are there until I can get some proper board mounted ones

Marmaliser, I added a second gut shot picture. I wired the LED as instructed in the PDF from the resistor to the switch on the 3pdt. I used the standard wiring diagram found at the top right of the project page. Just ignore the LED wiring on this diagram and follow the pork barrel LED instruction. Hit me up if you can't get it going.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/StandardWiring_MBP.pdf

Thanks I have started a new thread here http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2994.0  Your photo helped me to make sure everything was the right way round etc.

Hope you guys can help me out here with my first madbean build

(1) Project Name - Pork Barell Chorus - Latest version

(2) General description of the problem - With the 10k Trimmer all the way to the left I get a nice clean signal but after about a third of the way around the chorus kicks in but I am getting a fair bit of noise and if I strike a chord I get a bit of distortion as well.  The sound stays the same with the trimmer all the way clockwise

(3) Steps that you have taken to try to resolve the issue - I have tried all new Transaistors and IC's with no change.  Both pots alter the sound as you would expect

(4) List any substitutions you used for parts/values
R40 - 39r instead of 33r

Thanks in advance

Looks sweet , Could you do me a little favour and take a better pic of the guts, I am having trouble with my Pork Barrel build at the moment and this might help

Nice Build and love the Bee.

At first I liked the yellow knobs and then it started to remind me of Joyo / freekish pedals

I used the recommendation about using an enclosure to snap the board, and it worked very well.

 

Have  read of Kitrae's excellent muff site which should have the answer but also a whole lot more
http://www.kitrae.net/music/music_big_muff.html

I use the actual enclosure for breaking vero.

Turn it upside and remove the bottom.
Place your vero over the edge in line with where you want it to break
Place the bottom back on and hold it together or even screw it back on
Snap the vero - Nice and clean.

Was the amount unpaid the postage amount? I am sure on my few small orders with them that whilst going though the  paypal process some pages  had the postage included but others did not.