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Also I've never seen a zener diode that looks like that the ones I usually get are the orange glass types.

The codes on your wimas  look to me like the values you used are off. I don't know how experianced you are so don't take it hard but I'm gonna see if I can find my conversion chart for pf nf uf.  I had a hard time understanding them at first.  basically 1000pf = 1nf = .001uf... it looks like your code 1k 63 would be 1k(1000) pf or 1n or .001uf with a maximum voltage rating of 63 volts.

Please someone weigh in if I am off track as I am not familiar with these particular codes. don't always assume the supplier put what you ordered in the little plastic bags. they screw up values all the time. it's pretty easily done.

This is my zener diode http://www.banzaimusic.com/9-1V-Zener-Diode-5W.html, as a noob I ordered the 5W version   but it should work well, shouldn´t it?

According to this web http://www.wima.de/EN/marking.htm:

u1k63 = 0,1uF - Tolerance=10%(k) - 63V

http://www.wima.de/EN/marking.htm

u1=0,1uF , isn´t it?

And can we get some closeups of the whole solder side?

Ok, i´ll try but it´s difficult with the mounted pots.

Thanks for reply

Photos!













Tell me if you need a photo of any specific part

If it's not transistor pins (or the transistors themselves), check the values of R2, R3, R6 & R7 and confirm that they are Ohms and not Kilohms.  A Kilohm value in R2, R3 or R7 would result in significantly less gain/volume.  If that doesn't do it, yes, photos!  Good luck!

All values are ok checked by code and multimeter.

I had the EXACT same problem with my cosmo and the great folks here noticed I has the wrong capacitor value in C2. Triple-check ALL of your cap and resistor values. It sounds like you have a wrong value somewhere.

You are going to love this pedal when you get sorted!

I´ve read you thread before posting this and double checked the values. Now triple checked it and all values seem to be correct. Maybe I am missing something because its true thats you problem is really similar.

EDIT: In my case the only pot that is working properly is volume. Gain rises the volume and a little gain in the last seventh of the turn. All the other pots seems to change slightly the sound.

Sorry for the poor english, I´m getting more crazy trying to explain my problem than trying to resolve it.

Check your transistor pinouts. Sometimes the base is not always in the middle pin. What transistors are you using? Maybe we can look for a datasheet.


-Kaleb

BS170, BC109B and AC127

I´ve double checked them. I´m a little newbie in electronics so it could be wrong but I think the pinouts are ok, I´ve take for reference this page http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/tran.htm

The first time I connect the effect to the guitar the pinouts were back to front (I realized this later) Could I have burnt the transistors?

Hi, I´ve built a Cosmopolitan and it does sound, but not very much. The bypass works but when you switch on the effect, the volume is barely the same (or even lowder) as when in bypass (with ALL knobs set to max.) It sounds a little fuzzier and cracked, and the sound is very muffled.

I´ve checked wiring, solder joints, Pot values,....

Tomorrow when i get my camera back i will post photos. I start this post today in case anyone has had the same problem and can help me

Sorry for the late reply, I´ve been busy.

Awesome results, thanks for the help! The first I´ve tried (220uf) completely eliminates the annoying sound, but I´ve got a doubt. Should I keep looking for the best capacitor value? I mean, does it affects the sound in some way? or if it just works doesn´t matter?

Add a 33uF electrolytic (or any other polarized cap) in parallel with the LED. I believe you need to put it in opposite polarity with respect to the LED. Like this:
 
                    LED
(long lead)   ---|>|----  (short lead)
                |            |
------------|            |----------
                |            |
                ---|(------
                    cap

If it helps but u can still hear it, then increase the capacitance.

Here's a build report I did a long time ago with a color changing LED. You can see the cap across the LED.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1074.0



-K

Thank you, I´ll try it tomorrow. Could I start with a higher value? I have some electrolithycs here in my house but no 33uf.

I´ve build a Serendipity. The sound is very good in general but when the multicolor led changes his color it sound a weird beep. Here is a video with the problem:

Sorry for the crappy quality, I only have my mobile to record.


The only thing i´ve changed regarding to the project is the orientation of the led (same problem as here http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=55.0) and one capacitor from Film/Foil to ceramic (I don´t know if it is relevant)


BTW here is the led i´ve used: http://www.banzaimusic.com/LED-5mm-RGB-multicolor.html

Hope you can help me

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/archive.html

pork barrel version 2

Thanks! I knew the archives but I didn´t think previous versions could have PCB for print.

Anyway I still would know why some pedals have it and others have not, just curiosity.

Hello, my name´s Roque and I am from Spain. I´ve starting digging into the diy pedal world about two or three moths ago without any electronical knowledge. I made first two kits from musikding and then I decided to start making pedals from here because it´s very well explained and its easy for me to understand. So far i have sucessful built Serendipity and Boneyard (btw absolutely awesome sound both of them). Two new pedals are coming (Cosmopolitan and Deadringer), I´m sure they´ll be amazing as well. I love overdrives/distortion/fuzz but I want to do something different. I´m planning to do some chorus or hybrid like DMM but i´ve not found single sided PCB for any of them. Why there are some projects without this option? Is it because of technical issues? Economical?...

Thanks


(sorry if its a repeated question, i didn´t find anything)