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Nice score indeed! I have one almost exactly like it with a JB in the bridge and an SH-2N Jazz in the neck. Decent pickups make a huge difference in those guitars!

Oh I don't think anyone took offense, I was just jokingly giving you some grief    I'm stoked for the new builds too - just dropped over a hundred bucks on boards. That's the most I've spent in a while.

In the announcement post, Brian said he'd have the docs up in a day or two. Cut him some slack

A lot of people get an MIM in the color/neck they like and just upgrade as they can afford it. They're really pretty decent guitars, and with the right upgrades can be quite gig-worthy instruments.

So, I don't think it's out of production. He still has a website and you can buy them from there -

http://www.butleraudio.com

However if you just want to DIY it (and that's what we do, right?), have a search over at freestompboxes.org. I seem to remember a huge thread over there with an etchable layout.

You have it in backwards. Electrolytic caps are polarized. The side with the stripe is negative while the other side (with the longer leg) is positive. The square pad on the PCB indicates the pos. side.

It's been said a couple of times, but True Detective. Oh my goodness. Definitely my favorite thing on TV at the moment. If you have HBO (or access to an HBOGo account) do yourself a favor and watch that show.

I'll throw another endorsement out there for True Detective. It helps that Harrelson and McConoughey are top notch actors, but that is one hell of a well written and directed series.

You should be able to lower the 50n input cap a bit - try a .01 or .033

I think most use the method from FSB. Rig a switch to reduce R14 from 15K to around 1.5k. There are a number of ways to do this - introduce a parallel resistor, put both values on a DPDT, etc.

Also I think Arc uses a trimpot to vary how much that value is reduced.

There are a couple other ways to increase bass as well, like playing around with the 3n9 cap.

I've played the Classic 30 and the 15" Delta Blues version. Both were workhorses and took pedals pretty nicely. Although, as sp3k mentioned, not every pedal sounds good with every amp - it might be worth taking a few of your regular pedals into your local guitar shop and hearing for yourself.


I have zero experience with the HRDx, but I played one in a guitar shop and wasn't fond of the drive channels. If you're using it as a clean pedal platform, have you considered the Blues Deluxe?

Look around the site for the DeadRinger project doc - the schematic will help shed some light.

Wow, props dude - that's hard core! Think I'll just stick with the mnemonics I learned in tech school. I guess I'm a wimp too, lol.

More likely you just need to hit that pot with some contact cleaner.

EDIT: I should qualify that the contact cleaner may be a temporary fix. The scratchiness is usually a result of dust/corrosion built up between the wiper and the resistive wafer. So, you'd be essentially just moving the dirt around. Ultimately, replacing the pot would be the permanent fix. That said, the contact cleaner may buy you a few months or even longer.

You can always use two Bluesbreaker boards in a pinch. Several folks make that board in a fabbed version - Rej, Aion, GGG, Tonepad

This one -

http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=13121