I've been on the forum for a short while now and have gained a wealth of insight from this community already. Thanks all!
Before joining here, I had never heard of Tayda. I keep thinking I will give them a try but I keep running into posts referencing their sketchiness. For example, Paul's picture of the one-legged tropical fish cap (epcos thread). I kind of suspect that the higher percentage of what they sell isn't going to cut it for me, but maybe there are a few gems.
I have a pretty distinct division in my mind about parts that are OK to use for my own personal builds vs. pedals I sell or build for good friends. Stuff for myself tends to be experimental / exploratory so if a part is less than reliable or has a fit/finish problem, I may use it anyway because I'm confident I can fix it if it fails. I feel completely different about stuff I intend to sell or give away. I tend to want that stuff to be bulletproof.
Given that sentiment, what items does Tayda sell that you would consider:
1. Rock-solid, kick it down a flight of stairs, sounds/looks/feels good? Ship it!
2. Useable for your own builds and experiments but doesn't cut it when your reputation is on the line
3. The jury is out. Seems like they could be good parts but we need more time/experience with them
4. Total junk! Not worth the baggies they came in
I would love to know your thoughts on this! So far, here is the little bit I've gathered:
1. (rock solid) LED's
2. (personal builds) switches, certain IC's, enclosures, caps & resistors, molex connectors
3. (time will tell) alpha pots
4. (utter crap) too much to list
If I were to put in an order today, I would feel safe buying LED's and molex connectors. What should be added (or subtracted) from my shopping list?
I am still on the fence about the pots
Not sure if I will order pots from there again.
No: resistors, caps, inductors, knobs (most), switches, connectors, voltage regulators, I'm sure I can think of more
Yes: LED's, enclosures, trim pots, pin headers, most IC's, pots, diodes.
Maybe: Ge diodes, wire, transistors, IC's
The Ge diodes I have from them are all good and mostly in spec (> 90%). Wire is marginal but usable and is OK compared to lots of wire from other sources. I've had two sets of fake JFET's and one possible set of fake op-amps (JRC4558). Fake JFET's are a risk nearly everywhere now. Saying that, most of the JFET's I've purchased from them are real and perfectly good. The two sets that were fake were very obviously fake. The op-amps could be real, but they certainly don't look like any JRC part I've ever seen.
Here's the thing about the pots. They are Alpha pots. The 9mm are pretty good and I'd use them in a commercial build. They 16mm are 16mm Alpha pots and are crap. My opinion is that the 16mm and 24mm Alpha pots are junk no matter where you buy them. I wouldn't put them in a commercial build no matter where I got them from. I do use them in my own pedals, but I won't let them anywhere near my guitars.
Their knobs are mostly cheap crap. But, if you are looking for little rubbery synth like knobs, the cheap ones they carry are actually OK. At this point, I stick with Smallbear for knobs and dream about finding a giant stock of NOS knobs manufactured when knobs weren't pathetic junk.
Whats wrong with their resistors/caps?
Is it an aesthetic issue (like small leads) or a numerical issue (out of spec/ huge tolerance). Apparently I've heard the ceramic caps are bad, but I am not sure what makes them bad
I'd use the following in anything:
Their resistors are fine if you don't mind thin leads. They're the ONLY reasonable way to get small quantities. I don't know what anyone's problem with their resistors is.
Silicon diodes are all fine.
Most schottky diodes, except I think the BAT41s, which seem to have the wrong Fv. I get 1N5817s and 1N60Ps from them all the time.
Cheap, common transistors -- 2N3904, for instance. Their BC108s and 109s are the same newer production ones sold everywhere.
I cheap, common ICs -- I sincerely doubt you will ever find a fake 4558 or 072 in their stock. Their Burr Brown stuff has been real from what I've been able to gather, but obviously you have to be careful with higher-value stuff like that.
I badmouth their FETs, but the fact is if you just need a generic FET, for a buffer or something, most of the time it's fine. I think we've more or less decided that they're out of spec, rather than necessarily fake. The J201s for instance are mostly too low gain, but hey, there's a use for that -- test them and match them up to stock specs for other FETs. Just don't design an effect using their J201s (oops!). But they aren't any cheaper than reliable sources, so why bother?
There's nothing wrong with their box caps.
I've been unable to find anything wrong with their tantalum caps.
Their multilayer ceramics caps are fine. I use them all the time in my mini builds.
I like their sockets; their single in line ones are actually a better fit for transistors than ones I've gotten elsewhere and paid more for.
Their 4Site enclosures are the same thing you'd get elsewhere. But I get all my enclosures from PPP because it's just not that much more (a few bucks?) and they come powdercoated.
Their toggles are fine in my experience as long as you aren't reheating and resoldering a bunch. They're not mountain switches, but neither are anyone else's, and you're only paying a dollar instead of five.
I feel like it's easier to ask about a specific component than to pick and choose about stuff. But I recently stopped using Tayda for most stuff ... and it had more to do with them moving into PCBs and using the names of the projects they're cloning than the quality of parts. Even so, I just give most of my business to Smallbear now because why both having to think about whether something is going to work?
The 3362P trimmers are the best deal anywhere.
Josh
I'll echo Jon's comments.
Resistors are fine (again, unless you have an issue with thinner leads). I've ordered thousands of resistors from them and only had one bag test out of spec, and I'm pretty sure they came from factory out of spec (i.e. 200k resistors marked as 220k), because they all tested exactly the same. So, that was 20 resistors out of 10,000+ I've ordered from them. Pretty good average.
Box caps are fine, and test well.
The new MLCC caps are very nice.
Ceramic caps - meh, not so hot, can't measure them because my DMM won't go down that low, but then again how many values do you really use (47p, 51p, 100p, 220p, that's really about it) on a regular basis.
Electros - have had some measure significantly out of spec, probably about 10% of the time.
Toggle switches - good value for the money, will not take three hits from the soldering iron, so if you're going to use them to compare various values, socket them. There are better switches out there, there are also a lot worse.
Opamps - had really good success with the typical ones we use, including PT2399. Burr Browns are the real thing, as are the TC1044.
Sockets - SIL are great, DIP are good. Buy the cheap spring leaf DIPs instead of the machined ones.
Diodes - what Jon said
Stranded wire - nice, and good price
Solid wire - same
Knobs - hit and miss. I like their Marshall style, not crazy about their Davies clones (mostly because of set screw issues).
Pots - like the split shaft and the PCB mount. Not completely sold on the new solid shaft solder lugs - the diameter of the shaft is definitely on the upper end of the allowable tolerance. Most pots I've purchased from them fall into +/- 5% of measured tolerance; don't think I've had any exceed 10% off spec.
FETS - I've had better success elsewhere, including random ebay sellers, and their price on those isn't so great that you couldn't go buy from somewhere else.
Enclosures are fine, but I find that by the time I do the finish myself, I've already paid more than I would from PPP, so I don't order too many from Tayda anymore.
Stomps are fine, though I've used them in limited numbers, I buy my 3PDTs elsewhere for a better price.
LEDs are fine, LED bezels are hit and miss, it's a good idea to have a reamer around to clean up the bottom of the bezels.
Quote from: midwayfair on March 18, 2014, 04:27:29 PM
I just give most of my business to Smallbear now because why both having to think about whether something is going to work?
yeah, this is kind of how I feel.
Quote from: ddog on March 18, 2014, 04:26:52 PM
Whats wrong with their resistors/caps?
Is it an aesthetic issue (like small leads) or a numerical issue (out of spec/ huge tolerance). Apparently I've heard the ceramic caps are bad, but I am not sure what makes them bad
There's more to the crapness of their resistors than just the thin leads. The leads also aren't well coated and don't solder well. They resistors themselves are flimsy. I've measured some and they measured low and out of spec. But, the main point is that you can get better resistors for less money buying in the 200 packs of the Xicons. After just a few orders, you'll have all the resistors you need for a long time and the total cost will be less.
Their MLCC's aren't even specified as to what type they are. It depends on what you are using them for, but if you follow the spec sheets and application notes, most IC's will call for a specific type of cap (power circuits often need X5R or X7R at least) and the recommended type for audio is C0G. The point that Tayda doesn't tell you what they are makes them unusable for me.
Quote from: gtr2 on March 18, 2014, 04:39:41 PM
The 3362P trimmers are the best deal anywhere.
Josh
I read that they are made by Alpha, same quality as the ones made by Bourns?
Hey RobA - what Pots do you use in your effects if not Alpha's? CTS full size?
Quote from: playpunk on March 18, 2014, 06:09:17 PM
Hey RobA - what Pots do you use in your effects if not Alpha's? CTS full size?
For my own pedals, I do use the Alpha 16mm, although I'm pretty much moving to the 9mm because the quality seems better to me. From my experience with them so far, I would use the 9mm Alpha's in a commercial build.
The problems I've had with the Alpha 16mm and 24mm is inconsistent taper and dead spots, particularly at the edges of the rotation. I've had a couple that have failed with at most two years of use as well. I haven't had that kind of issue with any other pot.
For my guitars, I mainly use Bourns pots and I think the quality is pretty good on these. My favorite pots I've got are these Vishay/Sfernice things I got for a headphone amp build. They are great but they cost way too much to buy and put in something on the floor (or for anything that needs more than a couple of knobs).
Here's what I buy from Tayda:
Box Caps
9mm pots PCB pots
Right-Angle PCB pots
3362p clone trimmers
Audio ICs (dual and quad op amps, OTA, PT2399)
Charge pumps
LDRs
LEDs
DIP switches
Enclosures
I avoid any of Tayda's hardware - switches and jacks especially. Their 3PDTs seem to be okay, never had any issues, but I'm usually in the "better safe than sorry" camp when it comes to 3PDT stomps since they're so integral to a circuit and the cost of failure is high. So I use them for test builds and even personal stuff without any hesitation, but I wouldn't use them in a build for a touring musician.
I should mention, since I haven't heard this complaint from anyone else: I've had some issues with their 3362P trim pots. I ordered a large quantity of them and most of them had an open circuit if they were turned all the way down - the wiper totally lost contact with the resistive element. So instead of zero ohms it was infinite. It wasn't too much of an issue since you only had to barely turn it up for it to get back on track, but it took me a very long time to debug. (This was about a year ago and the value was 100k, in case it was just an isolated defect in that batch.)
I do love the 9mm pots. My only trouble is that I'm a freak about board-mounting all my pots and toggle switches, and you can't board-mount switches if you use 9mm pots because the pots are a lot shorter and there's not enough clearance for a switch. But if the circuit doesn't have switches, or your perfectly healthy brain will allow you to put them offboard, then the 9mms are great.
The knurled-plastic-shaft ones are a lot of fun. As long as your PCB is mounted securely and your drill-holes are accurate, it's a nice way to fit extra controls onto a 1590B build without adding knobs, especially for "fine tuning" sort of controls that aren't used as often.
Quote from: aion on March 18, 2014, 07:37:26 PM
I do love the 9mm pots. My only trouble is that I'm a freak about board-mounting all my pots and toggle switches, and you can't board-mount switches if you use 9mm pots because the pots are a lot shorter and there's not enough clearance for a switch. But if the circuit doesn't have switches, or your perfectly healthy brain will allow you to put them offboard, then the 9mms are great.
Really? I was just about to send off a pretty big (= expensive) board to OSHPark where I have toggles and 9mm pots mixed. When I put them side-by-side, they look like they'll line up pretty much exactly (from aligning the deepest plastic ridge on the toggle with the metal tabs on the pot).
The MLCC caps are all over the place. Some are X series (good) some are Z and Y series (bad) and some are unspecified. I avoid all of them and get them from Mouser.
Like others, I like their LEDs, trim pots, sockets, 9mm pots and various other bits that come to mind. Their box caps are fine , but I prefer getting EPCOS and others from Mouser.
Almost all of their hardware is junk, the worst being any of their 1/4 plugs. I also skip their electrolytics and cheap ceramics. I'm not sure about their ICs, but the last Burr Brown chips I got had different markings than the ones I got from a different source.
The BC108 and BC109 transistors I got were significantly lower gain than others I have on hand. I don't know if that just reflects current production or just theirs.
I've gotten Germaniums that were in spec and some that were out. Every BAT41 I've received has been out of spec.
The knobs are also fairly bad.
I've been using Tayda for a while now and here is my what to/not order from them.
To:
Resistors (although I have noticed a difference in quality between these and the ones from PPP)
LEDs
Box Caps
ELE Caps
Greenies
IC's (TL072, TL062, TL071, TL061, PT2399, JRC4558)
Transistors (haven't had ant issues with the ones I got)
Enclosures
Sockets (I've ordered the machined and spring ones both are good)
Diodes (1n4001, 1n914, 1n4148, various zener seem good)
DC Jacks (need to source the plastic nuts though, my preference)
Pots (both 16mm an 9mm work fine for me.
Knobs (all kinds)
Toggle switches
Don't
3pdt Switches (they fall apart if you need to re-solder 3 times)
1/4 Jacks (don't take solder well)
Wire (my only experience is with the solid, and god forbid you need to move it a couple times)
Ceramic Caps (utter shit)
LED holders (they are MASSIVE)
LDR s
That's just my experience and i'm kinda new to the building industry. I've also been tossing around the idea of going to mouser or avnet for most of my parts.
Quote from: RobA on March 18, 2014, 08:29:58 PM
Quote from: aion on March 18, 2014, 07:37:26 PM
I do love the 9mm pots. My only trouble is that I'm a freak about board-mounting all my pots and toggle switches, and you can't board-mount switches if you use 9mm pots because the pots are a lot shorter and there's not enough clearance for a switch. But if the circuit doesn't have switches, or your perfectly healthy brain will allow you to put them offboard, then the 9mms are great.
Really? I was just about to send off a pretty big (= expensive) board to OSHPark where I have toggles and 9mm pots mixed. When I put them side-by-side, they look like they'll line up pretty much exactly (from aligning the deepest plastic ridge on the toggle with the metal tabs on the pot).
I might be wrong on that. I may have just done a rough visual comparison awhile ago and decided that it wouldn't fit, without doing any actual measuring. I'll check this evening and see if I was making that up.
Although, now that I think about it, I may have done it assuming an inside nut on the toggle switch. I normally put a nut on the inside as well as the outside of the enclosure just because I'd rather the tension was against the threads and not the metal frame of the switch. I broke a switch once by over-tightening the outside nut before I started doing this. The added height of the inside nut might be what made it too tall to fit.
Quote from: aion on March 18, 2014, 07:37:26 PM
I avoid any of Tayda's hardware - switches and jacks especially.
I stopped buying their black open-frame jacks a while back. I've had a few where the nuts won't thread or stay on and had one jack disintegrate in my hand as I was tightening it down. For 10 cents more you can get a lot higher quality from BLMS. I've bought a lot of their passives and ICs and haven't really had any problems. Also their toggle switches seem pretty decent for the price. And their shipping on small orders is very reasonable.
Quote from: aion on March 18, 2014, 10:03:07 PM
...
Although, now that I think about it, I may have done it assuming an inside nut on the toggle switch. I normally put a nut on the inside as well as the outside of the enclosure just because I'd rather the tension was against the threads and not the metal frame of the switch. I broke a switch once by over-tightening the outside nut before I started doing this. The added height of the inside nut might be what made it too tall to fit.
It is tight enough that getting a nut on there is questionable. The other thing is that it depends on if it's a DP or SP type toggle. The ridge on the DP's look like they add a bit of height to how low the toggle sits. Either way, I should probably prototype it on a smaller, cheaper board before risking the big one.
Isn't there the risk that they're sourcing a part from whomever has it cheapest at the moment and what may fit this time... next time the part is from a different manufacturer and therefore slightly different and not going to work with the board you had made up.
Their blue terminal blocks and leds are fine. 1/4' 90º jacks- trash, binding posts worthy of the round bin, flacid resistors worthless for breadboarding, the pcb mount pots (with the annoying plastic cover liberated) work well with the terminal blocks for breadboarding, for builds hate split shaft pots and the month long wait for orders. Just no point...
Thank you Digikey and Small Bear!
Quote from: micromegas on March 18, 2014, 05:36:47 PM
Quote from: gtr2 on March 18, 2014, 04:39:41 PM
The 3362P trimmers are the best deal anywhere.
Josh
I read that they are made by Alpha, same quality as the ones made by Bourns?
Ive bought bourn trimmers before and they are a million times better quality then the crappy little plastic ones tayda sell. It was a bit of an eye opener for me actually.
Edit: I should say though the 'crappy' plastic tayda trimmers are ok for 1 off dialing in but if you need one for a test pcb or something that requires accuracy (BBD Delay) I wouldn't use them.
Quote from: davent on March 18, 2014, 11:33:46 PM
Isn't there the risk that they're sourcing a part from whomever has it cheapest at the moment and what may fit this time... next time the part is from a different manufacturer and therefore slightly different and not going to work with the board you had made up.
Yep, that's the risk.
Quote from: pickdropper on March 19, 2014, 04:21:47 AM
Quote from: davent on March 18, 2014, 11:33:46 PM
Isn't there the risk that they're sourcing a part from whomever has it cheapest at the moment and what may fit this time... next time the part is from a different manufacturer and therefore slightly different and not going to work with the board you had made up.
Yep, that's the risk.
I think this sums up why I'm nervous about purchasing there. In particular, I don't see myself risking using any of their transistors or opamps.
I wouldn't worry too much about current production IC's and transistors from Tayda. Looking at their pricing I would say they are ordering bulk direct from the manufacturer.
Quote from: chromesphere on March 19, 2014, 04:30:45 AM
I wouldn't worry too much about current production IC's and transistors from Tayda. Looking at their pricing I would say they are ordering bulk direct from the manufacturer.
That makes sense. Is it over-skeptical to wonder if these manufacturers sell B-stock?
Jon mentioned that about the alpha pots. From my understanding alpha pots are made on a per order basis (believe it or not) so I assume that they could ask for an economy bushing or something like that to cut costs...maybe? Not sure about transistors though but I would say probably not as it looks like they are inline with the rest of their profit margin.
In reading this thread, it's interesting that even among people who endorse buying from Tayda, there are a lot of qualifiers listed. It's definitely a buyer beware type of place. I feel like with a place like smallbear, the only qualifier is that in most cases prices aren't rock-bottom. Quality doesn't seem to ever be in question. And with a place like Mouser there is documentation for everything. It's reassuring.
I still think 90% of their offerings are good or usable. But yeah, a bit of experience will show you what to avoid. Also if I can get a branded component at the same or slightly more price (or sometimes even cheaper) why would I go with say, chong caps? I still buy from them, I'm just more selective these days.
Quote from: Leevibe on March 19, 2014, 04:47:23 AM
In reading this thread, it's interesting that even among people who endorse buying from Tayda, there are a lot of qualifiers listed. It's definitely a buyer beware type of place. I feel like with a place like smallbear, the only qualifier is that in most cases prices aren't rock-bottom. Quality doesn't seem to ever be in question. And with a place like Mouser there is documentation for everything. It's reassuring.
Small Bear is a nice resource. I give them a lot more business than Tayda. I get most parts from Small Bear, Mouser and enclosures from PPP.
One thing you have to take into account in a lot of non-US buyers is shipping costs. I only order from Small Bear twice a year because their shipping rates to non US addresses are brutal. Last order I placed with SB was delivered in a 6 X 6 X 6 box, total parts value was under $100, and I paid $40 in shipping. For a $100 Tayda order I pay $15 typically. So there's another 25% difference in price.
Long story short - order fro Tayda in smaller quantities to find what you like and what you don't to start with.
Don't know how to delete a post......
Quote from: GermanCdn on March 19, 2014, 05:19:54 AM
One thing you have to take into account in a lot of non-US buyers is shipping costs. I only order from Small Bear twice a year because their shipping rates to non US addresses are brutal. Last order I placed with SB was delivered in a 6 X 6 X 6 box, total parts value was under $100, and I paid $40 in shipping. For a $100 Tayda order I pay $15 typically. So there's another 25% difference in price.
Long story short - order fro Tayda in smaller quantities to find what you like and what you don't to start with.
Is that the flat shipping cost or are there duties, taxes, fees, etc added to the cost? I ask because I just shipped a 6x6x6 box @ 1.5lbs to SK, Canada for $12! That is pretty steep! Ugh...
I could be wrong, but I think SB include administrative costs in their shipping -- you have to pay it, even if you pick up, according to their website.
Quote from: Stomptown on March 19, 2014, 06:07:24 AM
Is that the flat shipping cost or are there duties, taxes, fees, etc added to the cost? I ask because I just shipped a 6x6x6 box @ 1.5lbs to SK, Canada for $12! That is pretty steep! Ugh...
I can only speak for my neck of EU woods but over here once a package is over $30ish in value (this is (value+shipping)! ) and/or over 500g in weight, then it gets automatically forwarded to the customs office for inspection. Nothing ever gets out of there unscathed, it's only a matter of which duties and taxes you'll get hit with, depending on the actual package content. As a rule of thumb, we're looking at 40-60% added to the (value+shipping) cost for anything coming in from outside of EU.
So for a $100 parts value from SB, I'd most likely end up paying $200+when all is said and done.
Which is why I buy a lot of small packages from Tayda, to stay under (or around) the cost limit and the weight limit. I never include more than one Hammond box in my Tayda orders. If I need three, I'll put in three orders and spread the rest of what I need across all the packages. It costs a buck or two more but really, anything that keeps me from getting molested by the customs office is fine with me.
Quote from: RobA on March 18, 2014, 11:02:07 PM
Quote from: aion on March 18, 2014, 10:03:07 PM
...
Although, now that I think about it, I may have done it assuming an inside nut on the toggle switch. I normally put a nut on the inside as well as the outside of the enclosure just because I'd rather the tension was against the threads and not the metal frame of the switch. I broke a switch once by over-tightening the outside nut before I started doing this. The added height of the inside nut might be what made it too tall to fit.
It is tight enough that getting a nut on there is questionable. The other thing is that it depends on if it's a DP or SP type toggle. The ridge on the DP's look like they add a bit of height to how low the toggle sits. Either way, I should probably prototype it on a smaller, cheaper board before risking the big one.
I checked it this morning and it'd be pretty tight even without the nut on the toggle switch. You could get a little bit of extra height by using an internal nut on the 9mm pot to bump it up a little, but the bushing isn't very long on those so you can't get much out of them.
The other issue is that some toggles (the ones I had on hand, anyway) have the epoxy coming partway up the lug, so if the PCB comes flush against the plastic casing, the solder might not make great contact with the lug. It'll still work fine, but it just won't be as strong a joint as if the PCB was positioned a little higher.
Quote from: chromesphere on March 19, 2014, 03:49:05 AM
Quote from: micromegas on March 18, 2014, 05:36:47 PM
Quote from: gtr2 on March 18, 2014, 04:39:41 PM
The 3362P trimmers are the best deal anywhere.
Josh
I read that they are made by Alpha, same quality as the ones made by Bourns?
Ive bought bourn trimmers before and they are a million times better quality then the crappy little plastic ones tayda sell. It was a bit of an eye opener for me actually.
Edit: I should say though the 'crappy' plastic tayda trimmers are ok for 1 off dialing in but if you need one for a test pcb or something that requires accuracy (BBD Delay) I wouldn't use them.
I'm talking about these:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/cermet-potentiometers/3362p.html
Not the ones they call trimmers that are the 6mm one turns, those are junk.
Josh
Quote from: gtr2 on March 19, 2014, 01:53:49 PM
Quote from: chromesphere on March 19, 2014, 03:49:05 AM
Quote from: micromegas on March 18, 2014, 05:36:47 PM
Quote from: gtr2 on March 18, 2014, 04:39:41 PM
The 3362P trimmers are the best deal anywhere.
Josh
I read that they are made by Alpha, same quality as the ones made by Bourns?
Ive bought bourn trimmers before and they are a million times better quality then the crappy little plastic ones tayda sell. It was a bit of an eye opener for me actually.
Edit: I should say though the 'crappy' plastic tayda trimmers are ok for 1 off dialing in but if you need one for a test pcb or something that requires accuracy (BBD Delay) I wouldn't use them.
I'm talking about these:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/cermet-potentiometers/3362p.html
Not the ones they call trimmers that are the 6mm one turns, those are junk.
Josh
These are good if you need accuracy:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/cermet-potentiometers/3296w.html
I use the 6c "junk" ones all the time. I've never had any trouble. I do measure them first, though, if I care about getting the full marked value; their tolerance is terrible, over 20%.
Quote from: aion on March 19, 2014, 01:24:08 PM
...
I checked it this morning and it'd be pretty tight even without the nut on the toggle switch. You could get a little bit of extra height by using an internal nut on the 9mm pot to bump it up a little, but the bushing isn't very long on those so you can't get much out of them.
The other issue is that some toggles (the ones I had on hand, anyway) have the epoxy coming partway up the lug, so if the PCB comes flush against the plastic casing, the solder might not make great contact with the lug. It'll still work fine, but it just won't be as strong a joint as if the PCB was positioned a little higher.
Thanks for taking a look. The toggles I've been looking at don't have the epoxy coming up the lug, but I checked a couple in some builds I have and they do. On top of that, I have some other toggles, made by Apem I think, that are even slightly taller in the body than the Talway or Tayda toggles. So, it gets a bit more complicated. Looks like I'll need to rethink my plans. Thanks again for looking at what you have and letting me know.
Well, that's the first time we've been hit for duty on a Tayda order, so that's the last time we'll be using them. When the charge is only fractionally less than the actual order, it's another source of parts out the window.
£15 import limit, fifteen fucking pounds. Utter bullshit.
/quite annoyed about it.
Quote from: juansolo on March 19, 2014, 06:22:28 PM
Well, that's the first time we've been hit for duty on a Tayda order, so that's the last time we'll be using them. When the charge is only fractionally less than the actual order, it's another source of parts out the window.
£15 import limit, fifteen fucking pounds. Utter bullshit.
/quite annoyed about it.
what a coincidence I just got effed in the ass by the import cunts on a tayda packed too.
I think they have got wise to it. It was good while it lasted, alas.
Is what I'm saying... it appears all the EU countries have the import limit set really low. 15gbp is roughly the same as here. I circumvent it by ordering 20ish in value and <500g in weight and haven't had a problem since.
OTOH, if I had Mouser/Farnell/whatnot available to me, I probably wouldn't be ordering from Tayda or ebay at all. As it stands, crap or not, Tayda covers about 80% of my pedal parts purchases.
Luckily I don't build to sell...
Im gonna weigh in here as I am sat bored in a hotel in Denmark on my own !
I buy a lot of stuff from Tayda, as it is affordable, the shipping is ridiculously cheap to the UK, and they seem to have a pretty good range.
Stuff I DO NOT buy from Tayda:
1 - Enclosures. I prefer to get powdercoated ones, either from bro's on here, or via Rapid in the UK. the rapid ones are excellent, but plain. They dont do cool transparent/sparkles etc. However, as the most expensive part of a pedal I can justfiy ordering in small quantities from Rapid, and in doing so shipping is free
2 - Jacks - I buy Neutrik ones from Banzai in Europe. They have high shipping but I buy 100 of them at a time and it makes it ok.
3 - electrolytics - sometimes I buy them from Tayda at a push, but as mentioned above you can get branded ones for similar prices. I use rapid.
4 - wiring. I buy tinned wire from GPCB and shielded from dr Tweek
Stuff I do happily buy and use from Tayda regularly
1 - simple ICs (TL07x etc)
2 - LEDs
3 - Box caps
4 - resistors of wierd values in small quantities. NEVER had an issue
5 - rotaries. These are the same Alpha ones as anywhere else, and they have the short lever on them, saves dremel. Not had an issue with them yet
6 - pots. Alpha. same as id buy anywhere. Cheaper. Many types.
7 - trim pots. The 3362 type are fine and work in anything ive used them in...YMMV
8 - sockets.
9 - vero. They do nice peices of pre-tinned very for peanuts.
as above I just got fucked for import, so thats added $25 to the order, so I think ill just be doing small orders that wont attract import duty from now on.
Based on peoples chat here I might look more into places like Mouser. I used them recently for some transformers I couldnt get elsewhere and the service was fine. Shipping costs are high unless you spend £50, though.
Quote from: muddyfox on March 19, 2014, 06:54:58 PM
Luckily I don't build to sell...
I sell stuff I build and touch wood never had anything fail.
if a part does fail, its likely to be the footswitch or the electrolytics, both readily fixed.
We used to get stuff from Tayda (as of today if we can't get stuff through any more there's no point in using them any more). Mainly it was pots, odd enclosures and bits and bobs. Don't use them for most components anymore.
Same here, got a letter through the post today saying I had to pay customs charge before they deliver my package from Tayda. I'm back to work tomorrow so sods law says it turns up when I'm out.
Still, £21 tax on a $200 order isn't too bad. Even with the import tax, a big enough order of pots still makes it cheaper to get them there rather then anywhere else.
Sent from my thumbs using Tapatalk!
Quote from: RobA on March 19, 2014, 03:52:37 PM
Quote from: aion on March 19, 2014, 01:24:08 PM
...
I checked it this morning and it'd be pretty tight even without the nut on the toggle switch. You could get a little bit of extra height by using an internal nut on the 9mm pot to bump it up a little, but the bushing isn't very long on those so you can't get much out of them.
The other issue is that some toggles (the ones I had on hand, anyway) have the epoxy coming partway up the lug, so if the PCB comes flush against the plastic casing, the solder might not make great contact with the lug. It'll still work fine, but it just won't be as strong a joint as if the PCB was positioned a little higher.
Thanks for taking a look. The toggles I've been looking at don't have the epoxy coming up the lug, but I checked a couple in some builds I have and they do. On top of that, I have some other toggles, made by Apem I think, that are even slightly taller in the body than the Talway or Tayda toggles. So, it gets a bit more complicated. Looks like I'll need to rethink my plans. Thanks again for looking at what you have and letting me know.
How about a mini toggle? You would have to figure out the lug spacing and create a part (or you could just use pads) but it wouldn't be too hard. They sell them at rat shack if your interested in seeing if they would work...
I've had an odd one with PT2399's from Tayda. When doing a Sea Urchin I had to externally connect a couple of pins. Found via this post
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=7512.msg64852#msg64852
Took a while to find but they technically work.
Quote from: bassybeats on March 20, 2014, 01:52:28 AM
I've had an odd one with PT2399's from Tayda. When doing a Sea Urchin I had to externally connect a couple of pins. Found via this post
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=7512.msg64852#msg64852
Took a while to find but they technically work.
That's all PT2399s, and a flaw in the Deep Blue Delay's design (which did little to correct the factory example schematic), nothing to do with Tayda's chips.
Ahhh thats good know. I take that back.
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Ok, so I finally took the Tayda plunge. I bought a bunch of LEDs and molex connectors. It seemed like a safe purchase based on the feedback here. It was a crazy feeling having 90 items in my cart before I hit the $5 minimum! I'm kind of excited.
Yeah they are good for a lot of things. And they are cheap too!
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So, their J201's should be avoided? it's just that musikding is taking forever to put them back in stock, and i was thinking to order them from tayda, but since their not safe....
I would steer clear... the few batches I got from them varied wildly.
You could go the route of smd j201 and adapter boards? SMD J201s have all been great to me so far.
I popped 10 J201s on my last tayda order to see what they're like, i'll put them on my JFET matcher when i get home and post the results. Need to build a pedal to put them in!
I've had success with their inductors, using them as chokes in the power supply. They fit in the space of a 1/4watt resistor, so it makes it easy.
(http://cl.ly/image/1U3y0D3n0x47/inductor-EC_85.jpg)
Ok, out of the 10 J201s, 1 was completely dead, these are the voltages using Rullywow's JFET Matcher board.
.264
.100
.245
.096
.159
.150
.190
.096
.140
Quote from: sturgeo on July 03, 2014, 04:09:54 PM
Ok, out of the 10 J201s, 1 was completely dead, these are the voltages using Rullywow's JFET Matcher board.
.264
.100
.245
.096
.159
.150
.190
.096
.140
Is that Vgs or something else? Going from memory, I think the spec on J201s is -0.3V to -1.5V. I am not quite sure what to make of those numbers.
Sorry they are Vgs, so basically, yup avoid J201s from Tayda!
Quote from: sturgeo on July 03, 2014, 04:55:28 PM
Sorry they are Vgs, so basically, yup avoid J201s from Tayda!
So it was positive VGS? Not even N-Channel. Guess their IQC department isn't doing so well.
No they are - as you would expect but not in the given range of true J201s
Quote from: sturgeo on July 03, 2014, 04:55:28 PM
Sorry they are Vgs, so basically, yup avoid J201s from Tayda!
ok then, thanks for warning me!
Quote from: sturgeo on July 03, 2014, 05:06:40 PM
No they are - as you would expect but not in the given range of true J201s
Unfortunately this is not always the case. I have had success with them lately. I really think it depends on the batch they get from their supplier. It really is a crap shoot.
Cody
Quote from: sturgeo on July 03, 2014, 05:06:40 PM
No they are - as you would expect but not in the given range of true J201s
Ah, so the voltages are negative.
Quote from: selfdestroyer on July 03, 2014, 05:55:18 PM
Quote from: sturgeo on July 03, 2014, 05:06:40 PM
No they are - as you would expect but not in the given range of true J201s
Unfortunately this is not always the case. I have had success with them lately. I really think it depends on the batch they get from their supplier. It really is a crap shoot.
Cody
I think this is true. But considering that Small Bear still sells them, I would be inclined to go there (although I realize they aren't as good of an option if you aren't in the US).
Quote from: pickdropper on July 03, 2014, 06:09:57 PM
Quote from: selfdestroyer on July 03, 2014, 05:55:18 PM
Quote from: sturgeo on July 03, 2014, 05:06:40 PM
No they are - as you would expect but not in the given range of true J201s
Unfortunately this is not always the case. I have had success with them lately. I really think it depends on the batch they get from their supplier. It really is a crap shoot.
Cody
I think this is true. But considering that Small Bear still sells them, I would be inclined to go there (although I realize they aren't as good of an option if you aren't in the US).
I do agree with that, I just add 4 to 6 with each Tayda order and test them when I get them. If they are good then its a win, if they are out of spec then I bag them and find other uses for them. I wish DIYSB still sold J201's, I got a nice batch of 40 from them 2 months ago.
Cody
Is there any equivalent to j201 to put in a weener project? i think i read that it was difficult to swap it for other model.
Quote from: selfdestroyer on July 03, 2014, 05:55:18 PM
Quote from: sturgeo on July 03, 2014, 05:06:40 PM
No they are - as you would expect but not in the given range of true J201s
Unfortunately this is not always the case. I have had success with them lately. I really think it depends on the batch they get from their supplier. It really is a crap shoot.
Cody
Yeah, I had a really good batch from them when Chi_boy first put out his boards for the Tweedy and Blackbird, I think out of 40 I had one bad one. Haven't ordered any lately, as I cleaned out Aron's stash last time when I ordered the Taptation chips (which came with out of spec digital pots).
Long story short - it's a crapshoot on the FET end of things. I bought 20 2N5952s from them, managed to get two quad sets and three twin sets out of them. Probably couldn't replicate that success again if I tried.
If the FETs bias up in circuit, then they are usable. If it's at the range of the trimmer, well, that's why we have trimmers and not fixed resistors.
So buy from the sources posted, but do not throw away J201's if they are out of spec -- you might yet find that they work in-circuit.
Quote from: sturgeo on July 03, 2014, 04:55:28 PM
Sorry they are Vgs, so basically, yup avoid J201s from Tayda!
If the FET tester is based on the Geofex matcher, then it doesn't measure VGS, but the voltage at which something or other is 10k, or something like that, can't remember exactly what it measures. It's useful for matching, but its not VGS, its always lower. Those are the figures I get with some of my genuine J201s.
I now use the ROG Fetzer valve FET testing circuit, which has no active components, it just measures VGS, and with a flick of a switch IDSS. Some Tayda J201s I had measured fine for VGS, but the IDSS wasn't in the expected range.
Quote from: marauder on July 03, 2014, 09:48:47 PM
If the FET tester is based on the Geofex matcher, then it doesn't measure VGS, but the voltage at which something or other is 10k, or something like that, can't remember exactly what it measures. It's useful for matching, but its not VGS, its always lower. Those are the figures I get with some of my genuine J201s.
I now use the ROG Fetzer valve FET testing circuit, which has no active components, it just measures VGS, and with a flick of a switch IDSS. Some Tayda J201s I had measured fine for VGS, but the IDSS wasn't in the expected range.
Ahh, thank you, it is based on the Geofex matcher, it does refer to the measured voltage as Vgs but as you say, probably at different parameters to the datasheet. Heres the info for those interested: http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/fetmatch/fetmatch.htm
I've not yet built any JFET pedals, just bought some to measure and see how they vary, as mentioned they can hopefully be biased, some are relatively close and if bought in larger batches I'm sure you'll get a better selection and hopefully no DOA ones.
As i'm in the UK unfortunately Small Bear isn't really an option, SMD adapter boards are next on my OSH Park order!
Any experiences with their rotatry switches? I need some for the meatball build and thought I might go with theirs
I bought some from ebay and they work fine. It's not actually soldered to the board yet (too many boards in the works ::) ) but I've tested continuity and it's all good. I bought from this guy here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-3-Pole-4-Position-PANEL-Wiring-ROTARY-SWITCH-3P4T-/390363700194?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae37d5be2
Sorry to resurrect this thread.
Has anyone had a bad experience with Tayda's bjts like 2n3904 & 2N3906? They say those are Fairchild and I wanted to buy a bunch of them..
Quote from: micromegas on August 26, 2014, 09:37:01 AM
Sorry to resurrect this thread.
Has anyone had a bad experience with Tayda's bjts like 2n3904 & 2N3906? They say those are Fairchild and I wanted to buy a bunch of them..
I've used a ton of them. Only had one bad 2n3904 and it was probably my fault.
Quote from: micromegas on August 26, 2014, 09:37:01 AM
Sorry to resurrect this thread.
Has anyone had a bad experience with Tayda's bjts like 2n3904 & 2N3906? They say those are Fairchild and I wanted to buy a bunch of them..
Those parts are so ubiquitous, I think it'd be very unlikely that you'll get a fake. It is possible you'll get an out of spec part, but that's always the case with Tayda.
On the other hand, those parts are so cheap from places like Mouser, Digikey, Farnell, etc., why even bother with Tayda?
Dude is not in the States or UK so shipping may be a concern?
I happen to know that there's Mouser within his reach but it still has a hefty minimum order to qualify for decent shipping.
Sorry, my personal demons... I cringe at every mention of Mouser, so much nice stuff there and so out of reach... :'(
Quote from: muddyfox on August 26, 2014, 12:51:26 PM
Dude is not in the States or UK so shipping may be a concern?
I happen to know that there's Mouser within his reach but it still has a hefty minimum order to qualify for decent shipping.
Sorry, my personal demons... I cringe at every mention of Mouser, so much nice stuff there and so out of reach... :'(
Yeah, I knew he wasn't in the US. It's too bad Farnell doesn't ship to more areas.
eBay may actually be another reasonable option. Some of the sellers out there have better quality than Tayda, of course it is somewhat luck of the draw.
Quote from: pickdropper on August 26, 2014, 12:48:10 PM
On the other hand, those parts are so cheap from places like Mouser, Digikey, Farnell, etc., why even bother with Tayda?
Mouser is not that cheap here in Spain, we have a 21% VAT and you need to make a big order to make it worth.
Plus I saw Tayda sells a pack of 50 2n3906 and 50 2n3904 for about 3$ on Ebay... with free shipping
Quote from: micromegas on August 26, 2014, 03:10:58 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on August 26, 2014, 12:48:10 PM
On the other hand, those parts are so cheap from places like Mouser, Digikey, Farnell, etc., why even bother with Tayda?
Yeah, that makes sense. Are there any large electronics distributors that deal with Spain and have lower requirements? Just curious.
Mouser is not that cheap here in Spain, we have a 21% VAT and you need to make a big order to make it worth.
Plus I saw Tayda sells a pack of 50 2n3906 and 50 2n3904 for about 3$ on Ebay... with free shipping
Quote from: pickdropper on August 26, 2014, 03:18:13 PM
Are there any large electronics distributors that deal with Spain and have lower requirements? Just curious.
Mouser is not that cheap here in Spain, we have a 21% VAT and you need to make a big order to make it worth.
RS-components is what people use at my University, but price&shipping is not a concern for them...
Mouser works great and is cheap for larger quantities, but the 21% VAT is what kills us...
I never went with mouser for quite the same reasons... Only large orders are cheap. I was thinking about getting some resistors in bulk (200 each), but the facts that I would never end up using many of them and that I get discount with our mechanic which makes them as cheap in lots of 10 made me give up on buying bulk.
Just not worth it for me.
I wonder if it would be worth putting together a giant spreadsheet (google doc?) of all of the vendors that people use in various parts of the world.
Don't get me wrong, I would use Mouser any time. They have quality parts and as I'm fully committed to the DIY hobby world now, I could also go for bigger amounts of parts. The reason I'm not doing it is only that I get great discount and free shipping via my workplace, which frankly just beats Mouser
Quote from: micromegas on August 26, 2014, 09:37:01 AM
Sorry to resurrect this thread.
Has anyone had a bad experience with Tayda's bjts like 2n3904 & 2N3906? They say those are Fairchild and I wanted to buy a bunch of them..
Don't forget to check out Chromospheres store (DIY Guitar Pedal Shop). He is still working on building his inventory but the shipping is always super cheap and super quick! He currently has 2N3904s and 2N3926s so if you want reliability I would order with him. Plus he is a great guy and they are dirt cheap and $0.03 per transistor! Here is a link:
http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6
IMO Tayda is fine up until the point you decide to sell a pedal. If you think you may sell a build down the road or if you aspire to start a business selling pedals I would stay away from Tayda. They'll keep you up at night waiting for the dreaded "my pedal no longer works" email!
Quote from: Stomptown on August 27, 2014, 02:58:54 AM
Quote from: micromegas on August 26, 2014, 09:37:01 AM
Sorry to resurrect this thread.
Has anyone had a bad experience with Tayda's bjts like 2n3904 & 2N3906? They say those are Fairchild and I wanted to buy a bunch of them..
Don't forget to check out Chromospheres store (DIY Guitar Pedal Shop). He is still working on building his inventory but the shipping is always super cheap and super quick! He currently has 2N3904s and 2N3926s so if you want reliability I would order with him. Plus he is a great guy and they are dirt cheap and $0.03 per transistor! Here is a link:
http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6
IMO Tayda is fine up until the point you decide to sell a pedal. If you think you may sell a build down the road or if you aspire to start a business selling pedals I would stay away from Tayda. They'll keep you up at night waiting for the dreaded "my pedal no longer works" email!
+1 on this. I've ordered from him a few times now and it only took a few days to get to the states. He's got great prices on caps and resistors. Also some cool mojo stuff.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey thanks for the vote of confidence guys!
A bit of back story about my webstore. I have changed my approach with the stock of late. When I originally set up the store my goal was to price compete with the big T. I have recently shifted gears and decided to focus on the quality and reliability of the stock instead of the price. Trying to price compete with Tayda is a self destructive and, well, just plain dissatisfying endeavour.
I also personally find building with quality components to be more enjoyable. Nice quality aluminium knobs, named brand components, etc. I just end up with a more appealing pedal. Tayda have some good stuff don't get me wrong. You just have to dig a little to find it.
Anyway, I wont go into my personal list do's and dont's with tayda stock I think that's been thoroughly covered. :D (batt snaps, sil sockets, most of the transistors, alpha pots, etc are fine imo).
I've ordered from Paul before (many times) but didn't knew he had 2n3906 & 2n3904 in stock :o.
Time to prepare another order... :)
I ve ordered some mn3008 chips from paul's store and everything was legit
and the shipping was too fast, if you think that he is sending them from Australia.
So Paul is one of the best way to go if you like for many reasons.
You get your stuff really quick and they are legit and also you helping a small bussiness to grow.
Paul is a godsend for Aussies, usually you get it the next day (and I love his wire).
Tayda is still only 7 days normally though so it's ok if you're not in a hurry.
Don't know if anyone here as asked the same question already, but what about their LM7815? Are they safe? I needed one for a Harbinger One project.
Quote from: HailToTheBlues on November 09, 2014, 10:24:19 AM
Don't know if anyone here as asked the same question already, but what about their LM7815? Are they safe? I needed one for a Harbinger One project.
I haven't used the 15V regulators from them, but I have used several others of the fixed regulators and the LM317 and LM337 variable regulators and all of them have been fine.
Edit: Actually, I take that back. All of the fixed regulators have been fine, but I did have some of the variable regulators pop -- as in explode and send shrapnel around the room. So, I've actually got the regulators on my do-not-buy list. That could be an over reaction on my part because I have had multiple others of theirs work perfectly well.
Quote from: RobA on November 09, 2014, 10:41:07 AM
Quote from: HailToTheBlues on November 09, 2014, 10:24:19 AM
Don't know if anyone here as asked the same question already, but what about their LM7815? Are they safe? I needed one for a Harbinger One project.
I haven't used the 15V regulators from them, but I have used several others of the fixed regulators and the LM317 and LM337 variable regulators and all of them have been fine.
Edit: Actually, I take that back. All of the fixed regulators have been fine, but I did have some of the variable regulators pop -- as in explode and send shrapnel around the room. So, I've actually got the regulators on my do-not-buy list. That could be an over reaction on my part because I have had multiple others of theirs work perfectly well.
So since the LM7815 is fixed, do you think it'll be fine?
Quote from: HailToTheBlues on November 09, 2014, 11:01:23 AM
Quote from: RobA on November 09, 2014, 10:41:07 AM
Quote from: HailToTheBlues on November 09, 2014, 10:24:19 AM
Don't know if anyone here as asked the same question already, but what about their LM7815? Are they safe? I needed one for a Harbinger One project.
I haven't used the 15V regulators from them, but I have used several others of the fixed regulators and the LM317 and LM337 variable regulators and all of them have been fine.
Edit: Actually, I take that back. All of the fixed regulators have been fine, but I did have some of the variable regulators pop -- as in explode and send shrapnel around the room. So, I've actually got the regulators on my do-not-buy list. That could be an over reaction on my part because I have had multiple others of theirs work perfectly well.
So since the LM7815 is fixed, do you think it'll be fine?
I can't say for sure that they are, but I'd guess that they would be. They are cheap enough that I'd give them a try if I were making an order anyway. If they measure in spec to 15V, I'd say you were OK. The couple that I had pop blew up within 30 seconds of being on the breadboard.
On the other hand, the regulators are cheap enough pretty much everywhere that if I had to get some other parts somewhere else, I'd pick the regulators up there. So, for me, I get my regulators from other sources like Mouser.
I use their:
Davies clone knobs
Enclosed jacks (perfect for 15th builds)
Pots
Sometimes resistors if I need some and making an order
Ceramic and film caps for same reason as resistors.
78L05 regulators
PT2399
My through hole stocks are dwindling though, and I generally only order the parts I need now.
Quote from: RobA on November 09, 2014, 11:08:03 AM
Quote from: HailToTheBlues on November 09, 2014, 11:01:23 AM
Quote from: RobA on November 09, 2014, 10:41:07 AM
Quote from: HailToTheBlues on November 09, 2014, 10:24:19 AM
Don't know if anyone here as asked the same question already, but what about their LM7815? Are they safe? I needed one for a Harbinger One project.
I haven't used the 15V regulators from them, but I have used several others of the fixed regulators and the LM317 and LM337 variable regulators and all of them have been fine.
Edit: Actually, I take that back. All of the fixed regulators have been fine, but I did have some of the variable regulators pop -- as in explode and send shrapnel around the room. So, I've actually got the regulators on my do-not-buy list. That could be an over reaction on my part because I have had multiple others of theirs work perfectly well.
So since the LM7815 is fixed, do you think it'll be fine?
I can't say for sure that they are, but I'd guess that they would be. They are cheap enough that I'd give them a try if I were making an order anyway. If they measure in spec to 15V, I'd say you were OK. The couple that I had pop blew up within 30 seconds of being on the breadboard.
On the other hand, the regulators are cheap enough pretty much everywhere that if I had to get some other parts somewhere else, I'd pick the regulators up there. So, for me, I get my regulators from other sources like Mouser.
Well, since none of the supliers that i'm going to order from, as the lm7815, would i better of ordering them from some suplier in ebay?
Quote from: HailToTheBlues on November 09, 2014, 11:13:29 AM
[...]
Well, since none of the supliers that i'm going to order from, as the lm7815, would i better of ordering them from some suplier in ebay?
I don't think it has to be an LM7815 specifically for the Harbinger. I think any of the L7815 in the TO-220 formats will work. As long as it has the same pinout and is the 1 amp version, it should be OK. Those are common enough that they should be available most places. I wouldn't trust Tayda any less than eBay on this part. They are very common and cheap, so I doubt if there is much of a reason to make a knock off. On the other hand, both Tayda and the suppliers on eBay probably just pick them up off of Alibaba, so it probably doesn't matter much where you get them from.
Quote from: RobA on November 09, 2014, 11:45:33 AM
Quote from: HailToTheBlues on November 09, 2014, 11:13:29 AM
[...]
Well, since none of the supliers that i'm going to order from, as the lm7815, would i better of ordering them from some suplier in ebay?
I don't think it has to be an LM7815 specifically for the Harbinger. I think any of the L7815 in the TO-220 formats will work. As long as it has the same pinout and is the 1 amp version, it should be OK. Those are common enough that they should be available most places. I wouldn't trust Tayda any less than eBay on this part. They are very common and cheap, so I doubt if there is much of a reason to make a knock off. On the other hand, both Tayda and the suppliers on eBay probably just pick them up off of Alibaba, so it probably doesn't matter much where you get them from.
Is this the same thing? Since it is 1,5A, i'm thinking no: http://www.banzaimusic.com/7815.html
It would be nice to know which part that actually is -- manufacturer etc, -- but it probably is the right part. ST Micro lists their L7815 as up to 1.5A even though the spec sheet for it does all of the speed values at a load of 1.0A.
I'd go with that one and then check the spec sheet to be sure after I had the part in hand, but I'm nearly positive it'll be the right one.
I need beat up looking hardware to look right on my builds so usually propane torch the stainlees steel nuts and washers to age and patinacize them. Can you guess which hardware came from a Tayda Alpha dpdt look-a-like, and they were fired together... to be fair one is from a Tayda 3pdt stomp.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_6865_zps00629fbf.jpg)
Quote from: davent on November 11, 2014, 02:38:08 AM
I need beat up looking hardware to look right on my builds so usually propane torch the stainlees steel nuts and washers to age and patinacize them. Can you guess which hardware came from a Tayda Alpha dpdt look-a-like, and they were fired together... to be fair one is from a Tayda 3pdt stomp.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_6865_zps00629fbf.jpg)
Lol!
Tayda sell low quality parts!? How can that be possible when all their parts have 5/5 customer rated reviews?
Classic! :P