Hey Doodes,
Ok maybe not blown up but I needed to draw you in with a little yellow journalism. I was testing my build yesterday and as soon as I hooked up the board to power, R32 (the 10R 1/2 watt Resistor) would heat up and turn black, essentially burning from the inside out. I realized I didn't have a cap in c8 as I had added a socket in order to be able to dial in the FAT mod. I am not using the THICK mod just the FAT mod. I checked the schematic and realized that that shouldn't have anything to do with it right? I replaced r32, added a cap in c8, and checked out the tranny and that seemed fine as well. I was looking for some advice on how to trouble shoot this bad boy? Mainly cause I can't keep the power hooked up long enough to probe or take voltages without the resistor frying. I was checking out the schematic, could it be the voltage regulator? It was getting late so I didn't switch that out yet. Here are some pics of the board with the fried resistor. Let me know if anyone has any advice, if not I will keep plugging away and see what I come up with. Thanks homies!
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/673/LheCeh.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ipLheCehj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/904/Uz06VI.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p4Uz06VIj)
What are you using as a power supply?
For whatever reason, your board is pulling too much current and causing the resistor to overheat. Go ahead and jumper it instead. Make sure you get a good reading on your voltages afterward to make sure they are correct.
I am using there power breakouts from JMK's Testing rig. That is being powered by a standard boss power supply.
Same setup I used to test the previous 2 Sunking Boards I made. Only difference is I wanted to try one of the mods this time.
Quote from: murdog47 on September 02, 2014, 06:59:48 PM
What are you using as a power supply?
You may have a solder bridge or a whisker of stranded wire shorting to ground somewhere. I would recommend clipping one lead of your multimeter to a ground point (lug 1 of your volume pot?) and then testing every point on the board that should NOT have continuity to ground. It's a good exercise and shouldn't really take more than about 10-15 minutes.
If you have to fire it up again before you've found your problem, I'd recommend doing it without the ICs in their sockets. Test your charge pump (IC1) socket for approximately 9V on pin 1 and 0V on pin 3. If that checks out okay, add your charge pump and then test all the relevant power and ground points on the IC2 and IC3 sockets for appropriate voltages.
Good luck!
thanks for responding my man. You mean just pull that resistor out and solder in a jumper wire?
Quote from: madbean on September 02, 2014, 07:07:27 PM
For whatever reason, your board is pulling too much current and causing the resistor to overheat. Go ahead and jumper it instead. Make sure you get a good reading on your voltages afterward to make sure they are correct.
Thanks! This definitely seems like a good place to start. I really appreciate it. I'm hoping you are right about a solder bridge. I was probably going a little faster than normal considering I had already made 2 with no problems. Got a little cocky :-[
When checking the IC2 & IC3 sockets last, am I looking for the same voltages as the regulator? 9V on pin 1 0V on pin 3? Or are they different voltages? If they are different I'd imagine someone has probably already posted them in a another thread. I'll keep searching.
Quote from: mgwhit on September 02, 2014, 08:25:10 PM
You may have a solder bridge or a whisker of stranded wire shorting to ground somewhere. I would recommend clipping one lead of your multimeter to a ground point (lug 1 of your volume pot?) and then testing every point on the board that should NOT have continuity to ground. It's a good exercise and shouldn't really take more than about 10-15 minutes.
If you have to fire it up again before you've found your problem, I'd recommend doing it without the ICs in their sockets. Test your charge pump (IC1) socket for approximately 9V on pin 1 and 0V on pin 3. If that checks out okay, add your charge pump and then test all the relevant power and ground points on the IC2 and IC3 sockets for appropriate voltages.
Good luck!
Thanks so much for helping out guys! I really appreciate it!
Check out the power section of the schematic. IC1 should have about 9V on pin 8 and 0V on pin 4. IC2 should have not quite 18V on pin 8, and -9V on pin 4. If those look good, insert IC1 and IC2. The other pins on those ICs (1-3, 5-7) should have about half of what you see on pin 8 of IC1, which is your VB. This VB voltage should also be found on the + leg of C21. These are all approximate, of course.
Quote from: upthepunxxx on September 02, 2014, 10:00:50 PM
When checking the IC2 & IC3 sockets last, am I looking for the same voltages as the regulator? 9V on pin 1 0V on pin 3? Or are they different voltages? If they are different I'd imagine someone has probably already posted them in a another thread. I'll keep searching.
Pull the zener (D3) out...
At first I wasn't sure how you knew what pins 4 & 8 should be. I thought you got it from the data sheet or it was just one of those things everyone but me knows. I re-read your comment a couple times and finally realized why you said look at the power section. It took me a bit but I see pins 4 & 8 for both ics now, and what there corresponding voltages should be. Well this all gives me some good points to jump off from. I'm gonna start there and let you know how it goes. Thanks again brotha,
I really really appreciate it!
Quote from: mgwhit on September 02, 2014, 10:27:24 PM
Check out the power section of the schematic. IC1 should have about 9V on pin 8 and 0V on pin 4. IC2 should have not quite 18V on pin 8, and -9V on pin 4. If those look good, insert IC1 and IC2. The other pins on those ICs (1-3, 5-7) should have about half of what you see on pin 8 of IC1, which is your VB. This VB voltage should also be found on the + leg of C21. These are all approximate, of course.
Quote from: upthepunxxx on September 02, 2014, 10:00:50 PM
When checking the IC2 & IC3 sockets last, am I looking for the same voltages as the regulator? 9V on pin 1 0V on pin 3? Or are they different voltages? If they are different I'd imagine someone has probably already posted them in a another thread. I'll keep searching.
Quote from: upthepunxxx on September 03, 2014, 12:26:33 AM
Replace it?
Quote from: Scruffie on September 02, 2014, 10:32:46 PM
Pull the zener (D3) out...
Nope, just take it out, cut one of the leads, whatever.
Edit: Just saw you have it in a socket, even better, pull it out and try powering up.
Sorry man, one last question. In order to take voltages on the sockets I have to plug it in. Should I remove r32 and jumper it or replace it with a new one before I do that? Everytime I plug it in it just gets super hot and I unplug it before it burns out again. How would I go about checking voltages while avoiding burning up the board right there?
Quote from: upthepunxxx on September 03, 2014, 12:35:37 AM
At first I wasn't sure how you knew what pins 4 & 8 should be. I thought you got it from the data sheet or it was just one of those things everyone but me knows. I re-read your comment a couple times and finally realized why you said look at the power section. It took me a bit but I see pins 4 & 8 for both ics now, and what there corresponding voltages should be. Well this all gives me some good points to jump off from. I'm gonna start there and let you know how it goes. Thanks again brotha,
I really really appreciate it!
Quote from: mgwhit on September 02, 2014, 10:27:24 PM
Check out the power section of the schematic. IC1 should have about 9V on pin 8 and 0V on pin 4. IC2 should have not quite 18V on pin 8, and -9V on pin 4. If those look good, insert IC1 and IC2. The other pins on those ICs (1-3, 5-7) should have about half of what you see on pin 8 of IC1, which is your VB. This VB voltage should also be found on the + leg of C21. These are all approximate, of course.
Quote from: upthepunxxx on September 02, 2014, 10:00:50 PM
When checking the IC2 & IC3 sockets last, am I looking for the same voltages as the regulator? 9V on pin 1 0V on pin 3? Or are they different voltages? If they are different I'd imagine someone has probably already posted them in a another thread. I'll keep searching.
I'd take Bean's suggestion and jumper it.
Sorry I think I said the charge pump was ic1, but I was just looking at the schematic again and it's ic3. Got off too late tonight to check anything, hopefully tomorrow proves more fruitful...
Quote from: mgwhit on September 03, 2014, 03:51:50 AM
I'd take Bean's suggestion and jumper it.
Hey homies! I Jumpered r 32 and checked my voltage regulator socket voltages and everything checked out. I checked out ic1 and 2 with the regulator in and those checked out. I added everything back with r32 still jumped. I got signal this time but for some reason the gain pot doesn't do anything. The volume pot works but never fully turns the volume all the way off. Gonna do some prodding tonight and investigate further. Ill keep you posted. Again thanks for the help thus far! I love me some troubleshooting!
If your volume pot works, but never quite kills the signal, its lug 1 isn't properly grounded. Test for continuity to ground. Bad joint maybe?
Now that you can keep it running without the resistor burning up, post all voltages for all three ICs. There's probably something still pulling too much current, so I wouldn't let it run for long. The fact that your Gain pot isn't working may suggest a bad joint somewhere in that feedback loop, but there also might be something wrong in your VB voltage divider (R29, R30, C21).
Awesome! Thanks so much man. I did a ground test last night to make sure everything that wasn't suppose to be going to ground was not going to ground. Also maybe I should re hit the lug 1 pot. I was using that as my ground point when taking voltages and it seemed fine. But after hearing you say that I will double check it and re check voltages again. What exactly was r32 doing? Was it controlling the voltage before the transistor? Like is it bad that I am running the circuit to test things out without that resistor not there? My thinking being that it was burning up for a reason? Anyways I will check out the pot lugs tonight as well voltages and test for ground again. And also see whats up in the voltage divider section of the circuit. Thanks so much for helping me out! If you are ever in LA Ill buy you a beer or something.
Quote from: mgwhit on September 05, 2014, 12:12:54 AM
If your volume pot works, but never quite kills the signal, its lug 1 isn't properly grounded. Test for continuity to ground. Bad joint maybe?
Quote from: mgwhit on September 05, 2014, 12:12:54 AM
If your volume pot works, but never quite kills the signal, its lug 1 isn't properly grounded. Test for continuity to ground. Bad joint maybe?
Now that you can keep it running without the resistor burning up, post all voltages for all three ICs. There's probably something still pulling too much current, so I wouldn't let it run for long. The fact that your Gain pot isn't working may suggest a bad joint somewhere in that feedback loop, but there also might be something wrong in your VB voltage divider (R29, R30, C21).
One more thing. Its cool to just run the FAT mod right? I jumpered the THICK mod, exactly how I would if I was building a stock version (jumper wire from pads 1-2), but wired up a switch to the FAT mod and soldered capacitors for c6 & c8. Should I have omitted c6 since I am not using the THICK mod? Could that have Anything to do with my current troubles? Or at least why the gain pot isn't working? Maybe even screw with IC1B voltages?
The Fat Mod and the Thick Mod are completely independent. Assuming you jumpered the Thick Mod off (correctly), you could safely omit C6. And given that those mods are built onto the board, I don't think there's any way they could be messing up your voltages.
Here's one last thing I can think of to test tonight. Try continuity between lug 2 of your Gain pot and the positive leg of C21 (leg of R29 right across from it). Really try to get the tip of the pot lug rather than the PCB pad because we want to test the quality of the solder joint.
So I went back through to check all components. Surprise surprise! I Found a mistake. I put a 390nf cap instead of 390pf in c9. I can see how that would upset ic1s voltages, but is that the reason r32 was burning up? Gonna change out the cap and put a resistor back in r32 and see what happens. Wish me luck!
Quote from: mgwhit on September 05, 2014, 03:40:04 AM
The Fat Mod and the Thick Mod are completely independent. Assuming you jumpered the Thick Mod off (correctly), you could safely omit C6. And given that those mods are built onto the board, I don't think there's any way they could be messing up your voltages.
Here's one last thing I can think of to test tonight. Try continuity between lug 2 of your Gain pot and the positive leg of C21 (leg of R29 right across from it). Really try to get the tip of the pot lug rather than the PCB pad because we want to test the quality of the solder joint.
I doubt that bad value in C9 is what is causing your voltage/current issues. It would certainly make your pedal sound terrible, though. ;)
I can't believe we haven't suggested this before, but why don't you measure the current your board is drawing before you put that 10R resistor back in? Probably won't help us debug anything, but at least we'll know the extent of the problem.
The reason I said pull the zener earlier is that when they go bad (and they can easily) they will draw as much current as they damn well please, directly following the 10R? Likely candidate.
I thought Bean had ditched it for over voltage protection, I remember it being the issue on previous Sunking boards.
Quote from: Scruffie on September 07, 2014, 04:02:35 AM
The reason I said pull the zener earlier is that when they go bad (and they can easily) they will draw as much current as they damn well please, directly following the 10R? Likely candidate.
Thanks for the clarification! I couldn't figure out why a functional zener would cause a current problem. I get it now.
What would happen to a malfunctioning zener once you jumpered the burned out resistor? Wouldn't it burn out?
I'd still like to see a current measurement, though. I tend to forget that I even have that on my multimeter since I use it so infrequently.
I'm trying to think the best way to measure the current in its current state? Since I have r32 out right now, can I just run my multimeter right into those pads? So it's in the circuit? Or is that the complete wrong way? I guess I could wire up the batter snap and measure it that way right? Thanks again for all your help man, I've Learned so much more in this whole debugging process than I have in the last year!
Quote from: mgwhit on September 07, 2014, 04:19:55 AM
Thanks for the clarification! I couldn't figure out why a functional zener would cause a current problem. I get it now.
What would happen to a malfunctioning zener once you jumpered the burned out resistor? Wouldn't it burn out?
I'd still like to see a current measurement, though. I tend to forget that I even have that on my multimeter since I use it so infrequently.
As long as you can make good contact to the pads, that should be the perfect place to measure it. Be sure to start with your highest setting and the appropriate lead and work your way downward.
Based on what Scruffie said, I'd make sure that zener is removed from the circuit. If you get a reading that isn't high enough to blow that 10R resistor, then we can assume the zener was the problem.
Edit: Also remember to immediately return your multimeter to read voltage when you're finished. If you try to read voltage using a ground reference with your multimeter set to current, you'll blow the fuse.
Rad! Thanks man, I'm gonna try it when I get home from bowling league tonight. I think I have bigger problems though. Possibly issues with my grounding. I had ordered another couple boards to see if I could build one that works and test it against the bad one. I built it the exact same way I built the other one. Meaning jumpered the thick mod and wired up the fat mod. This time I omitted c6 though. Fired it up and everything looked good. However I lowered the volume pot all the way and still got signal. So I'm guessing it's not grounding properly. Then I lowered the gain pot and when it's almost all the way off I get this weird octave up sound but pretty quiet. But the word thing is that everything else works completely fine. The volume tone and gain pots work fine except for when the pots are in those positions. I didn't get a chance to really see what else was going on as I had to leave. I also didn't check the fat mod switch now that I think about it. The frustrating this is that in the past couple months I've built 2 of the stock versions for a buddy I jam with, and they work great! Long story short, I'm messing something up big time and I need to figure it out. STAT!
Quote from: mgwhit on September 08, 2014, 12:46:52 AM
As long as you can make good contact to the pads, that should be the perfect place to measure it. Be sure to start with your highest setting and the appropriate lead and work your way downward.
Based on what Scruffie said, I'd make sure that zener is removed from the circuit. If you get a reading that isn't high enough to blow that 10R resistor, then we can assume the zener was the problem.
Edit: Also remember to immediately return your multimeter to read voltage when you're finished. If you try to read voltage using a ground reference with your multimeter set to current, you'll blow the fuse.
So I measured some voltages as well as current draw last night. I attached the IC voltages as a text document. I think everything looks pretty standard...?
Current Draw for the board that was blowing up r32 is:
6.6ma read from R32 (10ohm 1/2 watt resistor in) with everything in circuit except IC1
8.4ma read from R32 (10ohm 1/2 watt resistor in) with everything
I didn't really remove IC1 for a particular reason. I was measuring current draw then realized I had it out. Since it was a different current draw, I figured I would include the reading.
Trying to figure out my next move...
Yeah. Wow. Did you already remove the zener? Those currents shouldn't have burnt out the 10R resistor. The voltages look good, too.
Quote from: mgwhit on September 09, 2014, 11:06:04 PM
Yeah. Wow. Did you already remove the zener? Those currents shouldn't have burnt out the 10R resistor. The voltages look good, too.
No those currents wouldn't but if the supply voltage wasn't steady (say it spiked), the zener may have been trying to level things out being a shunt regulator and the 10R wasn't correct for it to operate properly as such so it murdered the 10R trying.
Basically... zeners can really suck... figuratively and literally if something isn't right, they're okay for BBD voltage regulating (although I stopped using them) as current draw is pretty low so even if something goes wrong, if the resistor is large enough you're generally okay as something else would have gone wrong first usually anyway but to regulate an entire circuit, you have to really plan for them.
Not yet, I am going to try that when I get off work. Pull the zener, put r32 back, and see if it still heats up. Im pretty sure I haven't done it yet? It starts getting confusing trying to keep track of all this troubleshooting, especially when I have to do it over the course of a couple days! I do remember pulling the zener and measuring it on my DDM and it seemed fine. Not sure if they will still pull way too much voltage even if they check out on the meter...?
Quote from: mgwhit on September 09, 2014, 11:06:04 PM
Yeah. Wow. Did you already remove the zener? Those currents shouldn't have burnt out the 10R resistor. The voltages look good, too.
the saga continues! So I fired up what I am calling board 1 last night (the original board that kept burning up r32). I replaced d3 and removed c6 (shouldn't change anything but i am not running the thick mod so there was no need for it). R32 was stable so I took some voltages. They were great the other night, but I think when I was checking them I some how shorted out out the regulator as I was getting some wacky voltages? Not sure what happened there but I changed it out anyways and rechecked voltages and everything looked the way they were suppose to. Only problem was that the volume pot still wasn't shunting signal to ground when turned all the way down. And the gain pot was still doing that weird oscillating octave sound when turned all the way down (it works fine when turned up.) I checked the 2nd board I made to compare and the volume and gain pots do the same thing?
Anyways, I decided to take Board 1 all the way back to stock, since I had successfully built two stock sunkings with no problems. I removed the jumper, wire and cap for the FAT mod. And you know what the gain pot stopped doing the oscillating octave thing! Im still having trouble wrapping my head around that one. The volume pot still won't shunt all signal when turned off.
So, I know what I will be doing this weekend, poking and prodding all weekend long trying to fix these boards. Im struggling with ordering more boards to try again and again until I get it right, however I think for financial and sanity reasons, figuring out what I am doing wrong first is the best option!
So the oscillating gain thing only happens when I have I the fat mod hooked up. Meaning I'm running alligator clips to a switch. When I remove it from the circuit (pull the clips). I can roll the gain knob all the way down without it doing that oscillation octave thing. Volume knob still won't completely kill the volume. I'm baffled. I searched the forum and didn't find anyother threads with this problem, so I just need to figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm starting loose it boys :'(
I think I figured out my gain knob problem! I ditched the super long test leads and hooked up a toggle straight to the wires. Voila no more weird noises! So far so good. now i just have to figure out my grounding issue with the volume knob!
PS
I know you dudes are busy with your own builds, but "talking" this out and responding to my own posts has actually been extremely helpful, almost therapeutic! I keep havering to re read when I spell check my posts. It makes me double check everything I am doing to troubleshoot. I highly recommend forum published internal dialog!
Quote from: upthepunxxx on September 21, 2014, 03:14:28 AM
So the oscillating gain thing only happens when I have I the fat mod hooked up. Meaning I'm running alligator clips to a switch. When I remove it from the circuit (pull the clips). I can roll the gain knob all the way down without it doing that oscillation octave thing. Volume knob still won't completely kill the volume. I'm baffled. I searched the forum and didn't find anyother threads with this problem, so I just need to figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm starting loose it boys :'(
I have one more board left. I am going to try and recreate the build I did that worked, and hopefully that will help me figure out my problem with volume pot. If not then I am just going to keep ordering boards and troubleshooting till i get it! I feel I need a fresh start at this point. I've been staring at these boards every night trying to figure it out. I am sure I am way overthinking it and overlooking the obvious. So hopefully this starting over will give me a fresh new insight. Everyone else's volume control completely cuts off signal right?
I've got a build (different circuit) that's oscillating too. I've narrowed it down to a few components but haven't yet dialed it in.
One thing that you might want to check into is the possibility of a mis-marked bag of parts. Might be worth reordering some for your remaining pcb and see what happens.
There have been times when I've caught myself almost returning parts into the wrong bag.
I picked up a bench power supply that is DC 0-18v up to 2 Amps with auto shut off and adjustable voltage and amperage controls as well as Voltage and Amperage readout.
It was $49 bucks and I figure ten 9 volt batteries pays for the thing. You can set the amperage knob to just above where it cuts off. if you accidentally short the leads it shuts off the juice and as soon as you fix it it turns back on. You can also see how much power the pedal is drawing. I love this thing and think it was really worth it. If you're interested PM me. I don't have any interest in these things and do not represent any company.
Thanks for the tip amigo! Luckily I figured out the oscillating problem. My only problem now is that whenever I turn down the volume pot all the way there is still a little bit of signal. It definitely lowers the volume to a point, but for some reason it's not all going to ground. I've checked my grounds on pin 1 and ever resoldersd the pot. I checked all the surrounding components too.
I'll def keep an eye out for bad part batches. However I make sure to test every component before I put it in the circuit. Only thing is my ddm can't seem to get a good read on is high value electrolytics.
Quote from: wgc on September 24, 2014, 10:55:03 PM
I've got a build (different circuit) that's oscillating too. I've narrowed it down to a few components but haven't yet dialed it in.
One thing that you might want to check into is the possibility of a mis-marked bag of parts. Might be worth reordering some for your remaining pcb and see what happens.
There have been times when I've caught myself almost returning parts into the wrong bag.
Quote from: upthepunxxx on September 25, 2014, 05:49:01 PM
My only problem now is that whenever I turn down the volume pot all the way there is still a little bit of signal. It definitely lowers the volume to a point, but for some reason it's not all going to ground. I've checked my grounds on pin 1 and ever resoldersd the pot. I checked all the surrounding components too.
That might just be typical of the buffered version of this circuit. Check out the top of the schematic where the post-buffer, pre-gain signal runs through C18 and R27...and notice how it connects directly to the output jack through R21 regardless of the bypass switch position. How loud is it (compared to bypassed signal)? Does it react to the Gain knob setting? Again, I've never built this board, so hopefully someone who has will chime in.
Yea when the volume pot is all the way down the gain knob and tone knob have no effect on the signal and it's a lot quiter than the bypass signal. Well the bypassed signal from the jmk testing rig. I haven't boxed one of the these boards up yet since I was still unsure if I did something wrong. And when I have it hooked up to my testing rig I'm bypassing the switching. I just built another one to see what what would happen and it's doing the same thing. Everything else works fine. I'm starting to think that maybe I am not doing anything wrong?? I built one for my buddy and he loves it. That's what I'm comparing it to. I don't remeber if the volume pot completely killed the signal? Maybe I never even checked? I haven't got to talk to him yet to ask him about the volume pot, but I'm thinking that maybe it does the same thing and I didn't realize it. I mean I guess you would never realize it unless for some reason you wanted the pedal off but didn't want to hit the switch? Not sure why you would do that? I am just mainly concerned about a grounding issue. Unless I'm completely off and it's not suppose to do that at all. I'm gonna check out the schem tomorrow per your suggestion.
Anyone built one that can check out the volume pot for me?
I really appreciate you still offering your help!!
Quote from: mgwhit on September 25, 2014, 06:38:52 PM
Quote from: upthepunxxx on September 25, 2014, 05:49:01 PM
My only problem now is that whenever I turn down the volume pot all the way there is still a little bit of signal. It definitely lowers the volume to a point, but for some reason it's not all going to ground. I've checked my grounds on pin 1 and ever resoldersd the pot. I checked all the surrounding components too.
That might just be typical of the buffered version of this circuit. Check out the top of the schematic where the post-buffer, pre-gain signal runs through C18 and R27...and notice how it connects directly to the output jack through R21 regardless of the bypass switch position. How loud is it (compared to bypassed signal)? Does it react to the Gain knob setting? Again, I've never built this board, so hopefully someone who has will chime in.
Problem solved!! So I went ahead and boxed one up thinking I'll if I want to turn down to volume all the way it means I want the pedal off, so I will just end up switching it off. Basically submitting to the fact that it was a totally livable problem, especially since i was pretty much just gonna play at high gain levels anyways. So I boxed it up and voila! Problem solved. The signal is totally killed when you roll the volume pot down all the way. I'm not sure if it has something to do with connecting the pots to the enclosure ground or something with the buffer. I still need to figure that part out. I was just stoked it works!!
Just fired up my buffered bypass Sunking II and it also set the 10R ablaze! I'll try the jumper.
Oh no! I feel your pain brother! I socketed r32 and put a jumper in there to take voltages. Once I got my voltages stariaghtedned out I ended up replacing ic3 and d3. I was then able to put r32 back in without it burning up. Double check (and most likely replace) d3, but I'm pretty sure that's what was burning up r32 on my board. Let me know how it goes.
Quote from: murdog47 on September 30, 2014, 07:02:57 PM
Just fired up my buffered bypass Sunking II and it also set the 10R ablaze! I'll try the jumper.
Pulled D3.....R32 still smoking
Jumpered R32 problem solved. Voltages all look good. Not sure what the issue is/was. Sounds good now :)
Awesome! Yea man sorry i didn't get back to you, it got a little crazy at work this week. Stoked you got the board back up and running. Sounds like you did the same thing I did ;D
Quote from: murdog47 on October 01, 2014, 11:23:20 AM
Jumpered R32 problem solved. Voltages all look good. Not sure what the issue is/was. Sounds good now :)
Still not sure with the voltages I'm reading why the heck R32 would be burning up like that. And why I haven't seen more people having the same issue. Must be a gremlin in there somewhere. A Klon curse if you will ;D
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w466/pmurray47/Gremlin_2_zps0201636a.png) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/pmurray47/media/Gremlin_2_zps0201636a.png.html)
The current version of the Sunking 2 schematic shows that 10R resistor as 1/2W. Were you using a 1/4W resistor?
I was using a 1/2 watt'r
Quote from: mgwhit on October 02, 2014, 12:56:43 AM
The current version of the Sunking 2 schematic shows that 10R resistor as 1/2W. Were you using a 1/4W resistor?
Quote from: mgwhit on October 02, 2014, 12:56:43 AM
The current version of the Sunking 2 schematic shows that 10R resistor as 1/2W. Were you using a 1/4W resistor?
Nope 1/2W
Crazy. I'm voting for your Gremlins theory.
concurred!
Quote from: mgwhit on October 02, 2014, 03:10:45 AM
Crazy. I'm voting for your Gremlins theory.
I say we get some Chinese Concrete Resistors and give it a go!