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Messages - Topsy

#1
I got 8.52V on the +9 pad on the board so it should be fine ..
#2
now i'm not getting the correct measurements on the Pin 1 & 6 from the tube . i don't understand anymore ...  :-X :-\
#3
mhm i've resoldered it but still measuring the same voltages on there, any other tips on what could be the next guess ? could I be doing something wrong in my measuring ?
#4
Quote from: WormBoy on April 18, 2017, 07:39:37 PM
Then it is a good idea to check your soldering of the IC socket. And, check if the IC gets 9v on pin 8 and ground on pin 4. At least this is a very clear sign of where things go awry. Hurrah for the audio probe  ;)
I got 0.26V on both pin 8 and 4 .

Quote from: WormBoy on April 18, 2017, 07:39:37 PM
C21 is not in the audio path, so that's ok  :)
besides making a fool of myself , that's a relief ;)

Well that's a relief haha!
#5
Also not getting audio at C21 or beyond either.
#6
So with the audio probe I'm getting audio up until PIN 3 on the IC3. no audio on pin 1&2 and the R14 resitor after that is not receiving audio either .

I have two of the same TL072 IC chip and tried both of them ending up with the same result.
#7
Thanks for the heads up , I am definitely enjoying the learning experience. Part of the frustration comes that this is part of an experiment I am conducting as part of my final major project with a deadline on the 24th of April >_< . I do love the troubleshooting part though it is what gives me a deeper understanding of what I am doing as opposed to having everything just working out and me not knowing how the f it works hehe. I will do some further testing and work on my soldering skills and post my findings here !  8)
#8
Silly of me to test them like I did haha, so on PIN 1 I get 60V and on PIN 6 I get 52V
#9
So I set my multimeter to 20V DC(then tried with 200V) metering and placed the probes on pin 1 & 6 , i'm not getting any reading on the metering.

Thanks for staying on top of this Wormboy , appreciate it.
#10
I checked continuity on all the circuit and it all works except for R2 and R3 with each other but it's a bit confusing on the schematics as there is an (opt) note but not sure if it's for Pin 7 to R2 only or maybe R2 and R3 shouldn't be connected . Otherwise it's all good :\
#11
Diode destroyer indeed.. well the tube is warm !
#12
Quote from: WormBoy on April 12, 2017, 04:19:42 PM
I would not recommend this as a first project: tight PCB, relatively high voltages, and large currents ... I first build dozens of simple pedals before daring to start anything with tubes ;D. So, don't be surprised if it is difficult to get this working properly (and perhaps even impossible with advise-at-a-distance only).
Hah thanks , that makes me feel better actually ^_^ .

Quote from: WormBoy on April 12, 2017, 04:19:42 PM
First question: what are you using to power the circuit? This circuit draws 300 mA just to heat up the tube. Did the tube glow (softly) when you tested? What voltages on the tube sockets?
I'm using a TC Electronic power supply that outputs 670mA . Yes the tube glows softly , after reading your post i might have touched the wrong pins while trying to figure out how to check voltage on the tube socket...because the small led died but the tube is still glowing and warming up and my power regulator is still hot so ..
#13
Update : continuity check is working out , i'm following the circuit and checking each component one step at a time. I will post the findings here !
#14
Hey guys,

1) Valve Driver V1.2 (kit called Tube Driver on Musikding.de, which is where i bought the kit from)
Build document : http://diy.thcustom.com/?wpdmdl=3217

2 / 3) This is my first project and I bought 2x kits knowing that I'd probably mess it up, the first one i boxed it and everything turns out i had multiple errors. Second attempt I decided to rock it before I box it as recommended and here are the issues :
-First test , audio was running through but only the volume knob was working with a very small range (clock wise only from approx 8 o clock till 11 o clock, beyond that there was no impact on the sound). Other knobs didn't have any impact on the sound.

After further research I realised that I had my IC2 in the wrong orientation, so I bought another one and fixed it.
I set up a small testing rig again, now I have no audio running through at all BUT when I crank my preamp and hear the noise , I can hear that the Bass and Treble knobs are indeed in effect as the noise gets more or less bass-y or treble-y as I twist the knobs .
The 5mm led lights up when I power up the pcb and the tube gets a little warm so the juices are flowing.

4) as far as I know I've used all the correct parts -_-' so no substitutes..etc

I have bought a breadboard and I have a multimeter, but given that I am seriously unexperienced. I am unsure on how to put these to good use in my case. I tried doing a continuity check but my multimeter never beeps with any connection on the pcb (only when the probes touch each other when i test them) which leads me to believe i'm doing it wrong.

I have attached a couple of pictures hoping that someone could point out an obvious mistake I have done : http://imgur.com/a/fkOy2

! Thanks for your patience and tips , I hope I've used the correct format to ask for tech help.

-Topsy
#15
Thanks a lot for all the answers :)

I did a first build (which I failed at, for various beginner reasons) and boxed it with no problems so I was wondering how important it was to cut these notches off .. but now I see that they indeed don't stay flat against the enclosure if these notches are still in place!