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Statement from Lovepedal:

NEWSLETTER EXCLUSIVE
We are very excited to announce our relationship and representation of
Hermida Audio Technology!


I have known Alfonso for many years. He has always had an ear for great guitar tone and a passion for engineering some of the most sought after products in the guitar industry. His goal is to replicate as close as possible the dynamics and frequency response of the tube sound and then engineer products accessible to everyone from the bedroom player to those playing in front of thousands of fans.
His products and engineering chops are legendary: the Zendrive, Zendrive2, Tiki Drive and Reverb to his full set of compact speaker cabinets in both ported and open back configurations. His customer list includes some of the most demanding musicians out there.

We stand proud to be the sole manufacturer, global distributor and retailer for Hermida Audio Technology products. Our arrangement frees up Alfonso Hermida's time to do what he does best: push the envelope by designing some of the best guitar products.

We have lots of great ideas so get ready for a new era my friends.

Sean Michael - LovePedal

Would this shielded two conductor wire work as good as the RG-174u?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221196339272?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

After a week of tweaking and swapping transistors, I finally found a transitor combo that got me the sound close to the original 1965 Tone Bender MK1.

A couple of recent videos I made:

My Clone:



Here is the original 1965 Sola Sound Tone Bender.

I breadboarded the Tone Bender MK1 and used the Tonebender MK1 transistor set that small bear offers.  I've never played or heard the actual 1965 Tonebender MK1 so I'm playing this by ear based on what I have read online and specially from this forum.  I made a video of my results.  Did my tone bender MK1 breadboard come close to the actual 1965 tone bender MK1 using the small bear tone bender MK1 transistor set?  Is the Tone Bender MK1 suppose to sound like this?

Here are some specs:
Here are the voltage readings I have on the breadboard:  Source: 9.38v

Transistor set from Small Bear.  http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1311

Q1: 75 hfe, L83, Q2: 106 hfe, L113, Q3: 140 hfe, L157.


Fuzz at max:

Q1:
C= 0.00v
B= -8.51v
E= -8.97v

Q2:
C= -3.89
B= -9.19
E= -9.36

Q3:
C= -0.15
B= -9.34
E= -9.25

Fuzz set to min:

Q1:
C= 0.00v
B= -8.53v
E= -8.94v

Q2:
C= -0.03mv
B= -9.32v
E= -9.35v

Q3:
C= -0.10mv
B= -9.33v
E= -9.35v

I was using a 2010 Gibson Les Paul Junior with P90 pickups and a stock 2007 Fender Blues Jr for this video.

This electric desoldering iron comes in handy for sure and makes for a clean and fast desoldering job.  Only $12 at your local radio shack.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731&filterName=Type&filterValue=Desoldering

Well, now that I've really taken an addictive hobby on making pedals for the last year now, I've decided to upgrade from my Weller WP35 35watt soldering iron for a soldering station with temp control.  I need one that would also so shut off automatically when not in use for long period of time.  I've accidentally left the soldering iron on, after building a pedal and to leave my work area to test it



I found this one...http://www.circuitspecialists.com/soldering-station-60-watt-3dlf.html 



watcha think?

I have about 5 NPN pedals, fuzz face, tonebender, rangemaster...etc and need to power them with -9v.  Can I build a standalone road rage and power all my npn pedals with a daisy chain power cable like the spot one?  Is it possible, instead of installing a road rage in each npn pedal?

Ordering parts for the road rage charge pump and need to verify if this 15v voltage regulator is the correct one from tadya.

The BOM calls for 7815T, but the one at tadya is L7815CV.  Is this basically the same?

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/l7815cv-l7815-7815-voltage-regulator-ic-15v-1-5a.html

The bill of material only states BC550 for Q1 and Q2.  There are two types, BC550B (low noise, medium gain), and BC550C (low noise, high gain).  Which one would be ideal for this PT2399 based delay?

These are my recent pedal builds.  (L-R)  Madbean Cave Dweller Delay, dark and very hunting ambient delay, not your typical PT2399 Delay tone, but thats what makes this delay unique and different., General Guitar Gadgets Guv'nor, sounds close to the actual Marshall Guv'nor, but with an added clipping bonus, you can choose between the stock LED clipping tone, which is very open, punchy and tubby sounding or three diode asymmetric clipping, which sounds a little more compressed, bitty and nastier.  The last but not least, the General Guitar Gadget (PRO CO) Rat, cloned after the 85' white face rat.  I used LM308 chips just like the vintage 85' pro co rat.  Sounds like the rat indeed.

Just built two Cave Dwellers and just floored by its ambient delay effect, certainly does not sound anything like many other PT2399 based delays out there, but I want to build its bigger brother, the Cave Dweller II Dub edition.  I've searched and cannot find a pcb or even a vero layout of it.  I would etch my own, but I would rather go that route as the last resort. 

Just ordered a couple of PCBs and got a free Egghead PCB, but I noticed no info on what values to use for the components (no parts list), and no wiring diagram when I clicked on the "Egghead" icon in the projects page.  http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/index.html 

Well, I was going smoothly populating and soldering the cave dweller PCB until I got to "C10".  C10 calls for 1uf which is 1000nf from what I understand.  I've always assumed as a general guide to distinguish film caps from electrolytic, nf will refer to film caps and uf would refer to electrolytic caps.  Looking at the cave dweller layout, "C10" calls for 1uf, but in a film cap form!!!  I just ordered all the parts and yes ordered ONE 1uf electrolytic cap instead of a 1uf film, which should have been noted as 1000nf to make it less confusing.  Could I use a 1uf electrolytic cap?  Does the polarity matter?