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Messages - Thomas_H

#346
Build Reports / Re: Bubba Fet - Work in progress
April 15, 2013, 10:39:37 PM
Probably you will already know that but you need to run all logic ics on the same voltage which quirks a liittle as the 4066 should run on 9v to do the switching right. I dont think the 74hct will help as its specification is 2-6v.
Either use all cmos 40xx  or 74C types.

40106 is a cmos schmitt trigger.
Hope this helps
Thomas

#347
Just to clarify, i am not the pedalsync guy, i did design the pedal controller mentioned here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=8130.0

Basically what you need is an adjustable gain stage in front of every effect loop return.
Out of experience a driver to boost signal strength is only needed in front and/ or  behind the whole looper.
So would it not be the better solution to either modify the pedals in question with an additional LBP1 booster which has a very small footprint or put only a few such devices into the looper you want to build?

Of course any other good booster like madbeans bacon bits can be used as well.
#348
Hi Thorpy6,

I just found this thread. I have developed the pedal controller that was mentioned and will try helping you to find what you need. The part I do not understand yet is the buffer/driver you mentioned.

Do you want to level out the signal for each loop separately or what do you want to do ?

Thomas
#349
I once built the sansamp gt 2 clone frome tonepad.
Be aware that this represents what could be done a few years ago. If does produce good sounds to use if you play it into a PA but buying one of the cheap JoYo clones of the more recent pedals from tech 21 should be the better choice.
#350
Genius means that they are complicated in a way. Either there are a lt of components (approx 80-100) or they are very dense so some good soldering practice is required. or both ;)
If you do have an electronics background that does involve using a soldering iron you still can tackle it.
You also should be familiar with resistor corlor code and capacitor labeling and their usual sizes.
This is essential to really make no error in populating the board. Even for experienced builders it can be very hard to fix a high densit board.

You may want to start with one of the easier builds and you will gather the experience needed to build the more complicated ones at a later stage.
#351
How do you store your resistors ?
I am not sure what the best way is to do that but I found that using a drawer cabinet is not optimal - once you have your values sorted into it you are fine - but when a new value comes in later - do you really rearrange all values to get it in between ? NO!

So for quite some time it looked like: ;D


Yesterday I saw this box. And I had an idea!

I found some strong paper and cut it into strips. Then I labeled it and put it into the plastic bag. Securing the bag and the paper with some clear film.



Before that I made sure the box holds 3 rows the width of the playstic bags and used the cover cut to stripes as dividers.



It took me three hours to complete the job but right now I have the ultimate sorting and storing utility fro my resistors.

After I had completed a little more than half of the bags I noticed that I was distributing resistors into existing bags more than creating new bags  ;)



Right now I know that I am overstocked in about 10 values and understocked in about 5. I also know now that I have 77 different resistor values  :-*

#352
The LAvache is not really boosting the signal very much. A lot of the amplification is eaten up by the clipping diodes. Depending on what you put there you only have 0.7V-1.4Vpp left. The rest ist clipped and therefore not there anymore. The original build was in front of an Amps preamp as far as i understand it. To get more you may want to put a boost after it.

#353
Is it very expensive? All 19" units are very expensive. First  you need a cage like structure to enclose lots of air. Then you need to stick in lots of x HE units filling up the empty space. Then you put in more smaller modules to get the last air removed.
Sometimes i think a massive block of aluminium would be a lot cheaper  :-*
#354
Looks great.
My youngest boy (5) always wants to clip off the resistor wires after soldering. And he does a good job with it :-)
#355
Hi Josh,
I had looked into the image thing but making it into a part did not occour to me yet.
Thank you
Thomas
#356
Open Discussion / Re: One year of DIY :)
March 08, 2013, 06:56:15 PM
This is great. One year of pedal building and so good. If you keep that pace ...
;)
#357
Warming up the oscilloscope is an analog thing. Not applicable for digital stuff. The tubes in the analoge ones (not really thetubes but the amplifiers) need to heat up a few minutes. After that you need to calibrate the zero-line. If you calibrate right after power up it will be off when its warm.

It will take you a while looking at circuits (especially distortion units) and having the right idea how the signal should look like :)

However, over time you will get used to it and the oscilloscope is a great tool. Have fun learning.

I am so glad my scope does not have digital features like yours as I would spent too much time looking at it instead of building pedals. I already spent too much time making pedals instead of making music!
#358
HI selfdestroyer.

I myself own a Hameg 204-2 which is more then 20 years old now. You know, as they had real tubes - as in analog TV :-)

They are a good tool if your audio probe (I am sure you have one? ) does not help you anymore.

Assume you do have an effect which needs troubleshooting as the signal on the Out is clearly not what it is supposed to be.

What you do:

Set your scope to somewhere around 1ms/div. This should make you see audio signals. Feel free to go up/down later to see more detail or more signal over time.

a) Put a defined signal to your input (Like Tiny tester from JMK http://www.jmkpcbs.com/JMK_PCBs/DIY_Projects.html)
b) Use your probe to look at your signal inside the circut. First ground the probe, then use your circuit schematic to poke around at the right places looking at the signal.

- Signal range is around 10mV - 100mV from Guitar in and 500mV - 2V on the output. Thats the range you are working at and which you need to set in your scope.

You poke around and find that one of your transistors in the circuit has a signal in - and nothing goes out. Good idea to check the orientation of the transistor and - hey-you made it (at least in this made up scenario)

Hope this helps as a starter. Have fun !
-Thomas
#359
Open Discussion / Re: Breadboard pots
February 27, 2013, 06:05:05 PM
I am also using the PCB-mounted pots. But I like the idea of putting the wires where you need them like davent did :-)
#360
Global Annoucements / Re: 02.22 - New Swag in teh Store
February 26, 2013, 05:55:58 PM
Cool, I actually might order one on the next occassion.