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cool, that might help a bit to understand what bean did since the schematic he mentions is where this whole curiosity began.

what ever happened to the pcb, pdf etc? been looking for it and the drawing above also references the schematic i found that bean posted a couple years ago. trying to work out what was modded so maybe i can teach myself. finally.

thanks guys

I've been looking for assorted kits that would have most anything you'd need for pedal building, most have some stuff, but a lot of things I'd not really use.

Was thinking maybe someone knew of one or maybe Brian or small bear would be interested in the idea of selling kits, I'd love to get a few that have most of not all the common parts and go mad scientist with it.

My buddy gave me his pedal since he is going full Quad Cortex (I've got one too, but... I love analog too. ), anyway the pot had a lot of dead spots and cleaning it 4 times didn't get me anywhere.

Issue with the original which was a B10K, dead spots and occasionally rocking the knob would get it to catch.

So into my remaining parts I went and all I could find was the A25K left over from a Fishman Fluence Mick Thomson set and while it feels a bit like I am turned up more than should be needed it works fine with no noticeable change in tone, however I do think the taper towards the end becomes more aggressive, though on my MM the resistance appeared rather smooth.

All in all, I wouldn't bother myself to order a B10K and swap it, but if I do make a order perhaps I will add one on for stock sake.

don't be silly kids, remember to remove the bypass jumper that you installed 3 years ago. also mayb make a note on tape inside the enclosure lid about it. 

mistook it for a resistor or diode that i had to install wonky, new potentiometer fixed my tone pot issue. 

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/_folders/1590A/pdf/The_IMP_v2.pdf

So I built this pedal like 3 years or so ago, Brian has the sales record so he could confirm roughly when. 😂

Tested in a plastic container, worked great, boxed it and broke the tone pot. Too rough.

Fast forward to today, I replaced and confirmed the tone pot was bad, tested the new one, installed and it is stuck wide open.

So need to know the traces to track my issue down so I can finally put this one to bed. What else could be causing it to stay open?

I'm thinking a short, I was careful installing my input jack, it might be touching, doubtful, what else could be preventing the sweep?

Side note the forums don't like letting me reply on my phone or computer.

I keep getting a you already posted error. 🤷

Keep in mind this is upside down and the output is on the left.

The way I've chosen to do the wiring is following the path starting from my amp and send is on the left.

Upright input is on the left and output on the right.

The path follows as below:

Input to volume pot to send to return to output.

When a patch cable is inserted into send the tip is lifted and breaks the connection to return and when a cable is inserted into return the connection to send is also broken and the path continues through what is plugged in to the output.

It is grounded from input to send to return to output and at the box.

I should have ordered a larger pot, but the 12mm will do fine and the tack solder will hold up fine.

Keep in mind this is upside down and the output is on the left.

The way I've chosen to do the wiring is following the path starting from my amp and send is on the left.

Upright input is on the left and output on the right.

The path follows as below:

Input to volume pot to send to return to output.

When a patch cable is inserted into send the tip is lifted and breaks the connection to return and when a cable is inserted into return the connection to send is also broken and the path continues through what is plugged in to the output.

It is grounded from input to send to return to output and at the box.

I should have ordered a larger pot, but the 12mm will do fine and the tack solder will hold up fine.

This should do what you are asking:  Normally thru the pot to the output, but plug a cable into the first NMJ4 and it reroutes signal to that cable and to your 2nd box.  From the 2nd box output, you can come back into the second NMJ4, which will bypass the pot and hit the output.  Or you can just take the output cable of the 2nd box somewhere else and not come back at all. All cables are standard TS guitar cables.  The input jack on your amp may be switching something, depending on whether there's a cable plugged into it or not, but the input cable is standard TS.
 

Ordered 2 #NYS2122 from small bear, input and output will be run of the mill jacks, I think I can modify the schematic you came up with and manage to figure it out.

Thanks for the help, hoping these jacks work as I'm wanting, seem like when the tip pin opens it will do fine to re-route the signal path.

I haven't been using the old box lately since it didn't seem to be required with a captorX on the amp, but will definitely help to fine tune for attenuation reasons.

Will post a drawing of what I decided to do, pictures when completed.

Should be fun. Thinking I may use thicker wiring on this, but doesn't seem necessary.

This should do what you are asking:  Normally thru the pot to the output, but plug a cable into the first NMJ4 and it reroutes signal to that cable and to your 2nd box.  From the 2nd box output, you can come back into the second NMJ4, which will bypass the pot and hit the output.  Or you can just take the output cable of the 2nd box somewhere else and not come back at all. All cables are standard TS guitar cables.  The input jack on your amp may be switching something, depending on whether there's a cable plugged into it or not, but the input cable is standard TS.
 

Cool design, but I need the pot at all times to be active. Just need to break after the pot and before output to add in pedals. I think I can work based off this design though. I've got to put an order worth the shipping together also a new build from Brian would be cool.

Welcome back!  If you can post a sketch of how you want to connect it in your signal chain, we can make some recommendations on which jack(s) will do it for you, I've built a few boxes like you describe.  In the mean time, here are the various switching configs available in Switchcraft (pdf file) and Neutrik (png file.)

Tried to reply the other day, but for some reason forum thought i'd already posted.

NJ4 would likely do the job, but i'm not certain how to use it, notice my amp has a odd jack with 4 wires going into it and similar looking to the NMJ type.

basically i'm trying to recreate the box i have now send>input>potentiometer>output>return, but stick a jack after the pot to redirect the signal path to or away from the jack and disconnect the output from the pot if a cable is inserted to become something like...

send>input>potentiometer---o\ o--->output>send
                           |  ^
                           V  |
                           |  ^-----<----,
                           |             |
                           '->box send>--^
i can't draw in text for much, but it's the general idea, so i don't have to keep unplugging things and can just have it self contained, can't mount on the back of the amp now because of where i had to put it so i am using 3ft cables. 😂

What not use a pedal and have the 3pdt being the FX loop in/out of the path. Add 2 pots, one in each loop.
FX loop pot attenuates before the FX so the preamp doesn't push your pedals too hard
The other pot just attenuates when loop is bypassed. It's still just 2 cables to/from the amp and let's you switch the loop in and out and level match. You could obviously do this on the amp with a toggle too.

Either way, use ISOLATED jacks or you could get a ground loop if the amp and pedals end up on different circuits.
I would start with isolated jacks and don't connect a ground to them, letting the amp handle the cable grounding.

i have some toggle switches i could use, but wanted to make it more automatic.

Why not build something  like the JHS black box (just an example for a visual)and put the effects after, or did you want something with a volume pot to sit on top of the amp?


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I already have, but I need to rebox it, so might as well upgrade it. After 3 years it's coming back home with the amp I let go of. Get them both back tomorrow.