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Excellent, thank you! I'm using a 1590b enclosure anyway so I have plenty of room!

Working on a Wigl board and ran out of 3mm LEDs. I had enough for D2 and D3 but wondering if a diffused 5mm red will be ok for LED3 which drives the photocells. Any potential problems with that or should I just be patient and order more 3mm leds?

So, I'm an idiot and forgot that the DT Hardwire SP-7 has a tap tempo mode for the speed knob. I got that sucker to slow way down. It doesn't sound as nice as the DOD 201 (probably a digital vs analog thing). I also found that it sounds better for my bass setup in the 4 stage setting rather than the 2 stage setting. Anyway, it's keeping me satisfied until I can build a slower version smoothie using the advice from midwayfair.

Math? Homework? 
I wasn't expecting this. ha ha.

Alright. Challenge accepted. My weekend is now booked. 

Thanks for your help!

Here's a schematic with the phase 45 differences I found on the googles if that helps anyone to help me. I understand very little of what's going on in there but I'm sure someone else will understand it.

Anyone tried or know how to mod this to make the speed go reeeeally slow?

I don't ever put the speed knob above 2 o'clock but I often wish I could make it go a lot slower than it does at the lowest point. So I'd like to make the current 2 o'clock position roughly the max speed and the lowest speed setting to be a heck of a lot slower.

So, how can I accomplish this? Change of pot value? change a few resistors? Is it possible? is it too complex that I shouldn't even bother?

FYI I'm using this for my bass rig as it was the best sounding phase (IMO) for bass. I have a bad stone, small stone, phase 95, phase 100, and Digitech SP-7 stereo phaser. I'm building a guitar pcb Dr. Phybes (90 w/ a script switch) for a friend and will be building myself a madbean smoothie (phase 45) in the near future. So if you're going to suggest using a different phase effect, don't bother cause this one is staying whether I can mod it or not  ...unless the smoothie beats it of course. 

Yep.  It's envirotex.  Pretty easy to work with after a bit of trial and error.

Nice! I'll have to give a try.



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That is a really impressive build.

Is that some kind of epoxy or glaze you used to coat the artwork like a Parks super glaze or envirotex?

Sweet oblivion, that is a lot of wires. Got any maranwra for that spaghetti? Mine had a that much wire for a simple boost pedal. Not pretty.


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Ha ha, I told you it was ugly. It wasn't quite as bad once I trimmed the wires back to solder to the pcb. 

Such a situation would've caused some havoc for just about anyone.

But you did a great job, and even cooler, you were able to troubleshoot your miswire successfully.

I probably would've drilled a new hole for the dc jack and found a way to plug the original hole (or not).  The stomp hole is placed a little high too.

Anyway, you're probably already thinking about the next 3 projects...!

I had thought about plugging the hole and drilling below the footswitch (where I'm guessing all that space is for a battery?) but since it was not for my own use I thought I'd rather keep the outside aesthetically pleasing.

I was a bit pressed for time otherwise I would've just ordered a new enclosure. Although, if I'm honest, I was intimidated about drilling so many holes into a blank enclosure but after drilling the hole for the toggle on this build I am far less intimidated by it. Experience breeds confidence. 

Hey, congratulations man, what a great first build too. Gut shot or it's a rehoused behringer!  Have you seen the first build threads floating around? Not pretty, we all had a first build.


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Ha ha. Ok ok ok. Here's what I got.

I'll have to get it back from my brother for the completed gutshot but here's the populated board and the wired enclosure.

You can see how the dc jack interfered with everything. I had to label the sweep pot so I wouldn't confuse myself when wiring the pots to the board.




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This was a Slow Loris build I did for my brother. Sounds glorious.

It didn't come without challenges though. The enclosure was a predrilled mammoth electronics 1590b that I already had around. Their placement of the DC jack (top and slightly left) and LED didn't exactly make things easy on the inside. I didn't post a gutshot cause frankly I'm embarrassed at how ugly it looks inside. In order to fit it in the 1590b I had to forego using pcb mount pots  cause the dc jack sits just above and slightly over the top left pot. As a result of that I needed to flip the board upside down and rotate it 90 degrees in order for it to sit flush. Components were too tall otherwise with 16mm lug pots, dc jack overhang and in/out jack placements. I drilled the hole for the clipping switch in the most convenient place I could think of without potential for getting stepped on and that ended up being slightly to the left but not terrible.

I had a minor miswire (learning experience) as I had a bunch of leftover white wire that I used to do the whole thing. All wires being the same color and as messy as the inside was I'm surprised it was only the one mistake. In the end it was an easy fix. It's all a tight fit but I taped the interior of the bottom plate and used drops of silicon adhesive and shrink sleeving to prevent any shorts.

All buttoned up you would never know the mess that lies inside. Ha ha. Looks good on the outside and sounds fantastic which is all that matters really.

Knobs ended up being (L to R) volume and gain on top row and cut and sweep on bottom. Which is an arrangement that I prefer actually.

Thanks for looking. Hope to post another build soon.

Would it not be simpler to just get a bigger pedalboard? 

Yes. Yes it would. Ha ha. But where is the challenge in that? I gotta cram as much as I can onto the one I got. 

If it's crunch you want... MI audio Crunch Box.

Here's an easy layout for one:

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/mi-audio-crunch-box-v2.html

Ditch a 3rd delay? Eliminate a fuzz? surely you jest. 
There are products out there that already do what I want and are passive, just none of them are very small nor do they use a foot switch to toggle between mono/stereo. The Rapco Horizon Stereoline for one. the NADY DB-2. I believe the Radial Engineering JDI Duplex is another, although that has about a billion more functions than what I need.
I was debating just rehousing a Rapco Horizon Stereoline and eliminating the low impedance XLR outputs and then figuring out if I can somehow make this remote footswitch to replace the stereo/mono rocker switch. That might be easier than trying to build this from scratch.
Maybe it's far more complex than I originally thought. The Wet/Dry signals are simply thru signals but then I would need to stereo sum and then split again in order to make dual mono. But if it's too much effort for what its worth I may just mount the Stereoline under the board and call it good. Switching might be a little inconvenient but that's life. 

Using a TRS cable gives you only three possible connections you can make (tip to sleeve, tip to ground, sleeve to ground). That's not enough to manage the four connections you'd need to make (in addition to grounding) for a stereo ABY. It may be possible to use a TRS switch to control an ABY, but the ABY will almost certainly rely on some sort of relay switching scheme.

You could manage a mono A/B (no Y) switch with a TRS cable, but it doesn't sound like that's what you're looking to do.

Actually that does help cause the way you explained it I realize its not actually ABY that I'm looking for it is technically more of an AB. So basically it's going to be setup like this;
Position 1: input A (wet) to output A. Input B (dry) to output B.
Position 2: inputs A & B to both outputs A & B (dual mono)

So really the footswitch just needs to switch from position 1 to position 2 and vice versa.