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Topics - pigyboy

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Requests / Rodenberg GAS-827 Overdrive for back engineering
« on: May 05, 2011, 06:27:53 AM »
I have a Rodenberg GAS-827 Overdrive here and was wondering if Madbean would be interested in back engineering it for the community. Don't know much about the builder but these are well made pedals.
Here is the link for the webpage. You have to use google page translator to view it in english.
http://www.rodenberg-amplification.com/de/gas827.html



Nice sounding pedal. I started to dig inside and it is all normal whole thru electronics with lots of swithes, clickless switching, etc. It is a clean boost and an overdrive in one box.
I don't have the time to do the project but if there is interest I can send it to Madbean for the full monty.

Cheer,
Chris

2

We are releasing our new record and have it up on here to listen to
http://soundcloud.com/the-rockweilers/sets
You can friend us at
http://www.myspace.com/therockweilersmusic
Let me know what you think
Cheers,
Chris

3
Open Discussion / El Musico Loco Pedal Giveaway
« on: October 19, 2010, 02:30:16 AM »
My friend Dennis talked me into giving away a pedal to celebrate the end of his 30 pedals in 30 days demo run on his youtube channel. If you want to enter follow the link and subscribe to his youtube page and then you have to leave a message under the contest announcement video. You get your choice of the Dinky Dong Booster or my version of the Frequency Central Little Angel Chorus.
Here is the link

Good Luck!

4
General Questions / RangeMaster input cap
« on: September 22, 2010, 02:52:50 PM »
What value of cap would give a full boost to the range master? I would like three choices, treble, mid and full.
Would .05u or .1 be enough or something bigger?

5
Open Discussion / Some people...
« on: September 22, 2010, 02:53:09 AM »
...just go up and beyond the call of duty. Thank you.  ;)

6
Requests / marshall supa fuzz
« on: September 15, 2010, 07:18:40 AM »
How about this now that Skreddy is sharing the schematic

7
Open Discussion / Great site for Transistor/Diode Identification
« on: September 07, 2010, 05:43:01 AM »
I have been using this as my main identification tool for about year.

http://english.electronica-pt.com/db/cross-reference.php

Great for finding what pin is what.

8
Open Discussion / Sparta's Gear Stolen in Texas
« on: September 02, 2010, 11:36:29 AM »
Creepy Fingers posted this on another forum and asked to spread the word. This is really lame:

Yo

My friend Dave from Eagles Of Death Metal forwarded me this. His friends in the band Sparta got their trailer stolen with all their gear...

Hello friends, friends of friends, friends of friends of friends....

Our trailer was stolen early Saturday, August 27th, from a parking lot next to the Marriott in downtown San Antonio, TX. We lost a substantial amount of gear, some of which is pretty unique, so we area keeping our fingers crossed it'll show up somewhere, someday... can you please pass this email along to anyone you know who tours or buys gear, especially if they live around central Texas. The pawnshops should get the list from the police report, but every little bit helps-
if you see this stuff out there please email or call our studio
Clap of Thunder
915-881-4737
booking@clapofthunder.com

thanks everyone, be safe out there
Jim Ward


GEAR LIST
-1961 Pelham Blue Les Paul Junior (SG Shape) w/ case stenciled SPARTA
-Blonde Fender Esquire black stripe across body, hotel key screwed into body w/ case stenciled SLEEPERCAR
-2008 White Gibson Firebird w/ case
-2001 Les Paul Wine Red Flame Top w/ case stenciled Sparta
-Fender Stratocaster Sunburst w/ case
-Epiphone Sheraton Blonde w/ case
-Squire P-Bass Brown w/ case
-Carter Pedal Steel Single Neck E9 w/ case
-Takamine EF360SC Acoustic in case stenciled SWIFT
-Kawai 88 key electric piano w/ case
-Roland Juno D Synth w/ case
-Fender Twin Amp 100w w/ case stenciled Sparta
-Ampeg SVT III in rack
-Fender Deville 4x10 w/ case
-Vox AC-30 in case stenciled SLEEPERCAR
-Vox 2x12 Extension cabinet in case stenciled SLEEPERCAR
-Acoustic Bass Cabinet 1x15
-Marshall 2000 2x12 Cabinet
-Electro Harmonix Swtich Blade A/B Switcher
- 4 Boss TU-2 Pedal Tuners
-Electro Harmonix LPB-1
-Ibanez Tube Screamer Keeley Mod
-Ibanez Tube Screamer
-Ibanez analog delay
-Klon Overdrive
-Boss DM-3 Analog Delay
-Boss DD5 Digital Delay
-Electro Harmonix Holy Grail Reverb
- 2 Ernie Ball Volume Pedals
- 2 Voodoo Labs Pedal Power 2s
-Rogue Volume Pedal
-Morely A/B Switcher
-Furman Surge Protector
-Sennheiser E840 Vocal mic
-Shure Beat 58 mic
-Ludwig "Butcher Block" drum set
16x22" Bass
16x16" Floor Tom
10x12" Rack Tom
-Ludwig "std Acrolite" Snare drum 5.5x14"
-Ludwig "Red Sparkle" Snare drum 5.5x14"

-Zlidjian 22" K light ride
-Zildjian 21" Sweet ride
-Zildjian 18" K medium Crash
-Zidjian 15" Vintage Hats, no markings but have Zidjian stamp on them

-DW serires 9000 cymbal stand x3
-DW series 9000 snare stand x2
-Tama "Iron Cobra" High Hat Stand (strap model)
-Tama "Iron Cobra" Single Bass drum pedal
-Pork Pie Throne

-22"x22"x52" Flight Case

9
General Questions / Low Gain Fuzz Design to Share
« on: August 23, 2010, 06:31:22 AM »
Hi,
 I have a new fuzz designed for low gain pnp germanium transistors. Kind of a combo of a Mosrite Fuzzrite and a Fulltone '69.  I found a supply of about 150 low gain very old germanium transistors that sound great in this design. I have it all done up on eagle and built several prototypes. It sounds fat and has very little background noise. I can post this if people are interested. Might be a fun project to get some people involved in.

10
Open Discussion / Pyledriver
« on: July 28, 2010, 03:01:59 PM »
What was the Pyledriver based on?

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I saw a post by Jamiroking who is starting his first project. Great to have you on board!  I thought maybe a soldering tutorial would help some people. This is by no way a complete primer just some quick ramblings. 
So, here's what to do while you wait for your boards:
 
 Learn to solder the best you can.
 Search the net for some tutorials. Youtube may have some good ones.
 Basic rules I follow are:
1.Keep the tip of the iron cleaned and tinned with solder. Use a small dab of solder on the iron to form a        "bridge" that transfers the heat to the component and board then sparingly feed enough solder to form the joint.
2. Remember that boards and components like transistors are easily destroyed by heat from the iron.  
3. I use one of those big magnifying glasses with a light in it that mounts on the edge of the desk. I think it is 15x and it makes things WAY easier.  It also makes your work look better and you have less chance of cold solder joints.
4.Get good thin, solid, silver solder that has NO ROSIN core. I never use any rosin core(I think that is what it is called, rosin core or resin core) and buy some liquid flux. It comes in little pen sized bottles so you can squirt a little on the place you need it.
5.I tack the side of one lead of the component I am soldering to the board with a small solder bridge. This allows you to cut the leads to the right length before you solder it permanently and it holds the components to the board so they don't fall out when you turn it over. . I use the lead of a .5 watt resistor as my guide to how tall I cut my component leads. I always cut my leads before I do my permanent solder joint to the board.
6. After I mount a few components this way I pop it in my little Pana-Vise under the magnifying glass. I feed solder over the top of where I cut the components til it forms a concave(looks like the sides suck in) volcano around the component lead. If the volcano bulges you are using too much solder.  The cores of most component wires are copper and will corrode and oxidize over time. When you cover your cuts with the solder it prevents this.
7. You want to try to 'tin' or coat the traces of your pcb's if they have exposed copper traces between the solder joints.  Don't do this if you feel unsteady with the soldering iron or think you may short out two traces by globbing too much solder on them. The solder keeps the copper from oxidizing, turning green and corroding. I am not sure how MadBean does all his boards. Meaning if they come pre-tinned or not. I think I read he is not pre-tinning them anymore. I don't blame him as if you don't have a wave soldering machine to do it it is very time consuming by hand.
8. Clean the traces of your board before you start.  I use either paint remover and a towel, a piece of steel wool or the easiest is a pencil eraser. Just scrub them till they are shiny and then try to keep your fingers off!
9. I do jumpers, resistors, diodes and any components that ride low to the board first. Then small caps, big caps on up in size of the rest of the components.
10.Clean and inspect your work. Use rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush to scrub the traces clean and shiny. Use Q-tips to shine up the solder joints. Clean, clean clean....

 Everybody else feel free to add any ideas to this

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Open Discussion / How to tell if a pedal is true bypass?
« on: June 01, 2010, 03:05:52 PM »

Hi All,
Has anyone ever heard of checking if a pedal is wired true bypass by plugging the pedal into an amp with nothing plugged into the input of the pedal while powering it with a power supply? If it is true bypass then it will be totally silent when the switch is engaged to switch to circuit off/out?

To me this sounds crazy but has anyone else ever heard of this?

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