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I know Smallbear got purchased a while back but this is the first time I have ordered from them since that happened. Its been over a week and my shipment still hasnt shipped.

Is this the new normal with them?

I don't want to be "that guy" and I am super appreciative that Synth Cube bought them but it just seems a bit extreme to me.

Has anyone used this?

If so, do you like it?

So anyone have any methods for cleaning sealed pots? I am about to restore an older Mackie mixing board and will be dealing with a lot of these.

The methods I have seen so far are:

--Take them apart by bending the crimped tabs. This method probably works the best but you only get one shot because those tabs can only be bent a couple/few times

--Heat (not drill) a tiny hole in the plastic to inject cleaner/lube. Close hole up with some type of sealant.

--Add cleaner/lube from the top of the shaft and allow it to find its way between the shaft clearance.


Just curious if anyone else had any ideas?

Also curious what people use. DeoxIT5? FaderLube?

I wont make this long, and I know its not pedal related, so hopefully won't be an issue

Anyway, any of you had lower lumbar back surgery? If so, what kind, what was the outcome, comparing before to after, etc.

I hear success stories, I hear horror stories, ....just looking to hear people's experiences.

New Sit Stand Desk Day!

So my back is basically fried. I have had herniated discs for about 14 years now that flare up from time to time. I recently had a bad flare up that had me bedridden for almost three weeks. Had spinal steroid injections a couple of weeks ago so I am doing better now. I am a pretty active guy so this crap gets me beyond depressed when it happens.

Anyway, my spinal doctors have been telling me forever that sitting is like the worse thing for your back, especially when you have issues like I do. That's usually when I can start to tell I am going to have a flare up; I'll be sitting, working for hours straight, go to stand up and bam...feel like I need a minute before I can walk.

So I finally bit the bullet and got an electronic sit/stand frame for my studio/office. While we have this style of desk at our main office, I work mostly remotely now. I basically took my studio desk that I already had and just removed everything below the table top and installed the frame. I opted for a more expensive frame since it seemed to be able to handle a lot more weight and had a better warranty. Hopefully with eliminating sitting while working (8-10hrs a day), I can lessen flare up frequency. Its definitely not easy standing up working all day because it kills my feet but I'd rather have that pain than a flare up.

Lastly, take care of your back!!!! If you are free from back pain, don't take it for granted because you don't want back issues. Trust me. 

Just curious if there is anything common we order that's tough to get at the moment?

I have a backlog of stuff I need to build so just wanted to get a heads up.

What are people opinion on the best amp kits?

Was looking around Mojotone but wanted some feedback

Looking for a project that uses MN3008s because I have 4 that I need to eventually do something with.

I am not looking for a scaled down version of a MN3005 delay, but rather projects that were designed for the 3008.

I already have the VFE Choral Reef, so anyone besides this.

appreciate any ideas

So I am trying to go through the process and I am at the point where my order is placed, I've waited 30 minutes, and I am trying to upload my UV template.

When I go to submit, I am getting this: "Error: You cannot call create unless the parent is saved"

Anyone know what this means?

Also, the instructions clearly state it wants a Illustrator vector .ai file, but next to the Choose File button it says "ONLY PDF FORMAT FILE PLEASE"

Which is it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Your Tone Virus and Head Trip kicks some serious ass.

Bravo, Sir.

Does anyone know if Mouser carries these?

I placed an order at Smallbear a week ago but still hasn't shipped out.

Looking for an alternative. Hoping Mouser since it's one day shipping

.....I always come back to the Tube Screamer.

Just recently built a Madbeans Green Bean (2014) and it's just heaven for me. I have a 90s reissue that I have used for many years as well.

I have used/built most of them (Fuzz Faces, Big Muffs, Benders, Rats, Klons, Overdrivers, etc.) and they all have their place, but there is just something magical about the TS to my ears. 

I realize the majority of the forum loves fuzzes, and I know its apples and oranges but.....just had to get that off my chest. 

Just curious how it went?



Looking for a unique, challenging build, but not sure about this one. This might be more than I want.

Maybe this could be cool to do at the end of each year. I know I like to see tools people use. Try to keep it more towards DIY audio stuff.

I'll start with something pretty simple that I didnt think too much of when purchasing them but now I can't go without. I have used everything to tighten pedal hardware and while this falls into the line of "nice to have".....for me it's now a "must have"

https://lovemyswitches.com/rocket-sockets-pedal-building-socket-set/

For years I have been using Papilio for the waterslide decal paper which was fantastic but it looks like they dont carry or stock it anymore.

So I ended up getting some Hayes Paper Waterslide Decal Paper from Amazon since it has a lot of great reviews but it's absolute crap. Stuff just friggin turns into sludge trying to get the backing off. Doesnt matter if you do a short dip in the water or a longer soak. I have been doing waterslides forever and know all the tricks but nothing worked. This stuff just isnt any good.

Anyway, just trying to see what people are using and having good results with.

Recommendations welcome!

Well, it's actually been a few weeks since I got this thing but it's still pretty new to me. I am plugging it in through Cubase as an external effect, rather than in a pedal board type setup. The thing is spectacular if you are into really crazy reverbs. Probably not the best choice for someone just looking for some regular reverbs.

My only two complaints are it's LFO can't sync to midi clock and there currently isn't a software preset librarian like there is with the Big Sky. Hopefully both of these will be addressed in a future update.

So I recently went back to my (2013) Aquaboy Deluxe (MN3005 & Road Rage) to see if I could maybe make some calibration adjustments and possible others modifications to make me like it more. I first tried calibrating by ear and I am currently using a scope.

One of the things right off the bat that I never liked was that I start to get self oscillation just a little passed the halfway mark on the feedback pot. That's even with T1 full CCW. Is there something I can experiment with adjusting so that I can only get self osc with the feedback at full CW?

I also tried running the clock at 6.8Khz and 6.5khz and I just still feel the repeats are just too degraded. Is it possible to run the clock even lower for cleaner repeats? I know that I will sacrifice delay time and I am okay with that if thats what it would take. Whats the lowest you recommend?

Reading through all three versions build docs, I see that in the latest revision Brian mentions this in the nerd notes:

Even though the circuit is running at 15v, I decided to leave the output voltage of the compressor
portion at the standard 3v as used on the DM-2. If you built older versions of the ABDX, you may
remember I suggested that if you wanted to run it at higher than 9v to change the voltage divider
resistors (here R15 and R16) to a larger value to increase the voltage output (pin7) of the compressor
(the idea being that a larger voltage there would increase headroom and also the bias voltage of the
pre-emphasis filter that follows).
After doing some more listening tests on the 2019 version, I ended up preferring the lower headroom
you get from the stock 10k resistors. To my ears, the higher voltage you get from an output voltage
of 5v or more ends up making the repeats too percussive and they have a tendency to sound more
"dithered" after 6 or 7 repeats. I did compensate for this in the expander portion of the compander
by including the 33k resistor on pin12 (R38). This bumps the output of the compander up about one
extra volt. This seemed to have no negative effect on the repeats.
If you want to tinker, then I suggest socketing R15, R16 and maybe even R38. Higher values for R15
and 16 will increase the output at pin7 of IC2. Lower values of R38 increase the voltage output at pins
10 and 11 (at low values it may stop operating). 

Is this something I can mod with the 2013 version? If so, how would I go about doing it? I feel, just like Brian mentioned above, the repeats right now are just too percussive. Don't get me wrong, I prefer analog delays and the darker, filtered repeats but I just feel right now this pedal is a little harsh, especially compared to the Total Recall.

Any advice on this would be appreciated.

What are people thinking?

Might be nice to talk about especially since people from all over the world frequent this site.

Didn't see this being talked about anywhere else in the forum. My apologies if I missed it.

Its me and I am back with another bridge question.

This is about a 6 screw vintage strat tremolo. My first late 80s strat had a hideous Kahler tremolo on it that I pretty much hated through the years. I recently removed the Kahler bridge and tried adding a 2 post Fender tremolo which I ended up hating as well. I finally just came to the conclusion that I just hate floating trems. I know you can block them but I don't want to do that either.

So that brings me to my question. I am going to plug up the two holes from the previous bridge and go to a 6 screw bridge which I already know I like cause I have Strats with this style of bridge. The problem is, my drill press isn't large enough to drill these new bridge holes. I wanted to see if anyone of you have had success drilling these by hand and how you went about it. I can drill a fixture on my drill press first and use that as a guide, I suppose. I am not worrying about getting the holes aligned because I have done enough of that with the pedal and synth stuff on our enclosures. I am more worried about drilling perpendicular to the body.

This Strat has sentimental value to me because it was my first guitar but it's beat to hell. So I am not trying to go about this the cleanest way possible.

Anyway, thoughts?

Not sure if anyone here would know the answer to this but I thought I would try anyway,

I have a 94 Custom Japanese Telecaster that I had since.....uhh 94. I have recently been doing some upgrades on my guitars and I thought about replacing the bridge (and some other things) on this but wasn't sure about what bridges are compatible. I have measured my current one with calipers and the only one that looks exact is the Gotoh Wilkinson modern tele bridge attached. 

I'd like to move to a more vintage style one but I couldn't seems to figure out if anyone makes one you can just switch out without having to redrill. I also couldn't figure out if the older Japanese models have the same spec bridges as the American ones.

I may need to post in the Telecaster forum but I thought I would try here first.