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when you order the poly film from futurlec about half of them are wimas.  The other brand is usually avx I believe.  They are cheap and sound good to me!  Give em a month though to get there.  I order caps and resistors from there.  I can get bulk prices without buying bulk    Well sort of... I do make sure when I buy the caps I order enough for the quantity price break,  but it's not 200 like needed for mouser.

im getting ready to order from them and i noticed in the pictures of their box caps its all WIMA's. now i gotta jump on those low prices!! did you have to ask them for the price break or are you referring to the already low price?

what about vishay 0.1% ?
would love to try a build built with those and normal metal film, just to see if there's a difference

sounds like military components for building jets!

that DS nano looks freakin cool!!! At school i tend to run to the tektronics o-scopes. They function better than the bk precision ones we have. Some of those instruments i waste so much time trying to get them to trigger or read properly to find out they are crap and its not me.
Kinda off topic. Has anyone been to TRW electronics swapmeet? its a little south of LAX, last saturday of every month. I imagine you could find one there for super cheap, that is if you a Los Angelean!

Check out futurlec for cheap caps and metal film resistors. i think its 30 for a dollar!!! and they have cheap bc 108/109's!!! tayda electronics has really cheap green caps and resistors (50 for a dollar!)

Do you have a multimeter? Try testing the pot. You can either test it with continuity or resistance. Touch from lug 3 to lug 2 and turn the pot fully one way. See if it goes from full resistance to 0 (or vice versa). Then with lug 1 to lug 2. If you get resistance or continuity then the pot should still be good and working! I've have weird shorting issues before. Look at how the jacks are orieneted. If would short if the tips where touching the enclosure(ground). I've rubbed all the components on a fresh build not working to find out the transistor wasn't in the socket enough! You never know. Also did you check continuity on the footswitch??

Is the trimpot you used from tayda??

[quote/]Interesting.  I knew that metal was supposed to be quieter.  I did not know that higher resistance means the possibility for higher noise.  Thank you.
[/quote]

Yes they would be quieter. Carbon Film are %5-%10 tolerance which means plus or minus the tolerance percentage of the value. So if you have a 10K ohm %10 carbon film it will be between 9K-11K which is normal for it. But a %1 metal film would be between 9.9K-10.1K!! Thats a huge difference and you will have a much more precise value with the metal film. But correct me if I'm wrong, even big pedal companies (for example EHX) are notorious for using whatever parts are available and cheapest to acquire. So go ahead and experiment. Nothing is wrong unless you don't like how it sounds!!!

its not too bad. You'll get used to it after awhile. A conversion chart helps a lot in the beginning. or get this!!! ---->http://cgi.ebay.com/VC99-3-6-7-Auto-range-digital-multimeter-bag-/290531843784?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a50c1ec8

This is what i use. For $30 bucks you can't go wrong and if you wanna bid on one you might get it cheaper. My next step is an old school one that shows leakage as well!!

Not in the immediate future, although I will offer another batch of the hand-made ones soon.

+1

Great information! You rock man!

WOW! you got soo many. I gotta get mine populated!

Thats a great looking build! I can't wait to get mine up and going!

yes! more learning material!!!

that seems useful! i have to say my multimeter capacitance meter doesn't like to read anything in the pf range but this kit reads 1 pf - 500 uf!!! thats awesome!! for 14 dollars

This would be a great project but i imagine quite complex! I have always wanted to try one of these but have never gotten close to one