Callsallus 2022 issues.

[Derpinador]

Ok, now I'm trying to see wtf I did to this 1. I hope nothing fried when I put the previous wrong 470uf cap in (the 4v "popcorn") My voltage readings were either 18.3 or fast fade from 5 to .02 before I put the IC's in. I put the chips in sequentially, 4558's(cheapest to replace) followed by the 1458 then the 4013, then the 4049 aand finally the mn3k7, nothing smoked but all the pins jumped to .03 lower than the positive pin on the power jack. I socketed C23, has 2 120's in for now. I have sound on bypass, goes utterly dead on except teh spiked power on the ic pins turned on and the led is off. I ran a continuity test on the 3pdt and got connection where it's supposed to be.

Now wtbf I miss?

[Derpinador]

other side of board, forum freaked posting both on same msg

[thomasha]

This is a huge board, let's divide an conquer.
- First, check if everything is correctly grounded, i.e. offboard parts connect to the board ground. That is always my first mistake.

- Check if you get stable voltage readings without the ICs: Are you using a 18V PS or a 9V and a voltage doubler?

- No sound when engaged means you also don't have the clean path working (NE5532, IC1 and 4558, IC2).
Get this part working first.
It would be helpful if you post the voltages at the IC pins, with IC2 and IC1 in their sockets and write them down here. If you can, make an excel table, so you can check changes.

- If it works and voltages are OK, let's move to the tricky part, the BBD circuitry.
With the Reg on 0, Manual, Rate and width about halfway:
1- Add the LFO (IC5) and check voltages. Pins 1 and 7 should oscillate. Write voltages down here
2- Add IC6 (pin 7 should vary when you adjust the Manual control). Write voltages down
3- Add IC7 (4013). Pin 1 and 2 should have a high frequency clock signal. On the multimeter it looks like 1/2 of the supply.
4- Add IC8 (4049). Check voltage at pins 12 and 2. Again, stronger clock signal
5- Add the BBD chip and read voltages, write them down. If you have an audio probe, check if there is signal at pin3 (input ) and pin 7 (output). I once had a fake MN3007 that had weird voltage readings and no signal output
6- Add IC4 (4558). It just adjust and filters the signal after the BBD.

You can check if the ICs have voltage at the supply pin. If one IC affects the voltage after the regulator, you may have a problem around it.

[Derpinador]

I did write them here. I'm using B's suggested dunlop psu. and empty sockets it was either at 18.3, for pin 1 sometimes, frequently at pin 4 on 8pin chips, which were supposed to be 0, the constant drop voltages on every other pin starting at 4~5 volts and slowly tick downs to .03. and as I added IC's ALL pins were at the range of 18.19 to 18.2. The cap going off like popcorn happened the 1st time I started to check the pin voltages and I just set aside until that amp sized cap arrived.

[Derpinador]

Gave a once over glance, the polarity diodes actually worked, the power header was turned around. Somedays I do live down to the nickname...out of the box had some hellacious ground noise but now I might be fine adjusting the trimmers.

[Bio77]

Is your regulator in upside-down?  It's hard to tell from the pics. 

Aside from that, I think you should be adding a bit more heat before you flow in your solder (either more time or a higher iron temp).  Ideally, you want the solder to flow through the hole to the other side of the board. 

[Derpinador]

Thanks Bio but it was just my cranial flatulance about the polarity. My Tourbus was all over like that as well but worked just fine w/o anything producing smoke. I put a 51pf cap in the c23 socket(s) like you would a 60 and now it's just setting the trimmers for 'optimal' flanging w/o self oscillation. Preferring this 1 over my Current Lover because that 1 has a heavy need for a boost pedal after it with the vol trimmer maxed out.


It's a 60 watt Weller, it's plenty hot enough, more than 20seconds guarantees delaminating the copper layer on 'thinner' boards, IE I think Brian's are among the few I've held on longer and NOT had them pull up and 1 or 2 from others that more than 10secs pulled traces/solder pads off in the solder sucker when I had to reposition a potentiometer or replace a resistor (looking at you cheaparse o-scope that I had to put 1/4's in because the printing was so bad on the 1/8th watt it came with ><).

[blackhatboojum]

Preferring this 1 over my Current Lover because that 1 has a heavy need for a boost pedal after it with the vol trimmer maxed out.

I would revisit your current lover.  You shouldn't be experiencing volume drop with the volume trimmer maxed.  You should be experiencing a boost in volume.

[Derpinador]

Preferring this 1 over my Current Lover because that 1 has a heavy need for a boost pedal after it with the vol trimmer maxed out.

I would revisit your current lover.  You shouldn't be experiencing volume drop with the volume trimmer maxed.  You should be experiencing a boost in volume.

I checked the voltages and values but that volume drop is why I even considered buying the Collo. I'll go back through but I don't have many expectations, if it's 1 of the chips I'm getting out the dremel because those are not socketed.

[thomasha]

I checked the voltages and values but that volume drop is why I even considered buying the Collo. I'll go back through but I don't have many expectations, if it's 1 of the chips I'm getting out the dremel because those are not socketed.

Before you do that, check the parts values, and if possible measure them.
Most of the time it is a wrong cap or resistor. 10k instead of 100k, or 2R7 instead of 2k7, and so on. With caps it is more difficult to check everyone, but I would also suggest that.

Sometimes your supplier just mixed some values. With 1% (blue) resistors red and brown are hard to tell apart.
With SMD parts it's even worse, caps in the nF and pF range have no number printed on them. You have to actually measure them to be certain.

[Derpinador]

I'll post a new thread for the Currentlover, this 1 is generally straightened out.