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Last of 2013: Behringer UV-300 rehouse

Started by LaceSensor, December 31, 2013, 09:08:21 AM

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LaceSensor

Took the plunge and ordered my first Behringer!
Its the UV-300 Vibrato, I'm advised is a fairly faithful clone of the old vintage Boss unit.
£18 delivered from Amazon

This rehouse took the best part of 5 hours so isnt the most straightforward. Ive seen it done other ways, but this way was mine.

I removed the touch switch so I could replace with a better quality push-SPST footswitch
The Ins/Outs got removed also and replaced with switchcraft style enclosed jacks.
The Power jack was removed; really you could just tack wires to this but for completeness...
Lastly, I removed the LED to replace with a white one.

I decided to keep the board mounted hardware otherwise (pots, switch) as I really wanted to keep the latching mode, and could NOT be arsed desoldering those 9mm pots between lots of SMD...
Therefore, I had to make some standoffs. These were 4mm bolts, and I enlarged the previous mounting holes on the PCB to accomodate.
The bolts were too long so had to be dremeled to size...

The only tough thing space wise to get this in a 125B was I had to move C18 = 1uF cap that is near the input jack to the "SMD" side of the PCB.
What I actually did was just cut it off and splice on a sub-mini cap from my own stock.

The pedals works and sounds lovely.
Here are some shots of the build. The final touch was to massacre the old box for the control panel, which I dremeled away then sanded down and super-glued to the case.
The case is white, and I sanded the top for a contrast (I got a few boxes which are slight blems on the top, but actually really like the effect!)

Drilled holes, slight oversize cos covered by the panel anyway :)


Test Fit for the jacks


How it all was modded / made to fit! Inc standoffs...note C18!


Pretty neat internals in the end!




The sacrificial Lamb


LaceSensor

Added a DPDT under the PCB that parallels a 330nf cap with c15 (47nf) for extra slow sweep.
Cool mod!




pickdropper

Gutshots or it's a rehoused Behringer.  Oh wait....

Nice build.  :)
Function f(x)
Follow me on Instagram as pickdropper

HunkFunkPedals

I know this post is super necro...I'm rehousing a UV300 and cant get the TB switching to work right.

I am having an issue with the I/O pinout....

artstomp

..just sharing how I did my Behringer rehouse..

HunkFunkPedals


artstomp

I simply connected the 2 wires from the momentary stomp sw to the tact sw on the pcb...I did not remove the tact sw...just identify the 2 correct terminals (it has 4 terminals) of the tact sw, the ones that are normally open and connect when depressed.

LaceSensor

Quote from: HunkFunkPedals on January 03, 2021, 12:57:10 PM
I know this post is super necro...I'm rehousing a UV300 and cant get the TB switching to work right.

I am having an issue with the I/O pinout....

What exactly is your issue here? In and output?

Identify the tip connectors from the jacks on the PCB...

Tremster

#8
Quote from: artstomp on January 03, 2021, 06:50:14 PM
..just sharing how I did my Behringer rehouse..
That first picture is brilliant!

I finished mine in copper hammertone:


HunkFunkPedals

Quote from: LaceSensor on January 05, 2021, 03:03:03 AM
Quote from: HunkFunkPedals on January 03, 2021, 12:57:10 PM
I know this post is super necro...I'm rehousing a UV300 and cant get the TB switching to work right.

I am having an issue with the I/O pinout....

What exactly is your issue here? In and output?

Identify the tip connectors from the jacks on the PCB...

Most Behringer pedals have a switched input. So there are 2 active input pads. I am having a hard time to TB the pedal. I've settled on putting a switched input. I am using the original switch location for a momentary switch only with another 3pdt for a bypass.

LaceSensor

You need to figure out where the flip flop is and short it so the pedal is always on
Ill check my notes if you havent committed already.
Then its a case of a simple true bypass arrangement.
I beleive, but could be wrong, that you lose the rise / unlatch setting when you true bypass it (for probably obvious reasons)

I did the Super fuzz clone too and it was simply a case of jumpering the flip flop transistor, and then rewiring the true bypass (as well as cutting the LED, which would otherwise be always on, too)

let me know if you need more help

Ian

HunkFunkPedals

I don't want to lose the functionality of the latch/unlatch but I also want to be able to independently turn on/off the effect with a separate LED.

I've basically accomplished this, but I don't know if TB can be achieved.