Author Topic: Building a Pharaoh Fuzz on a old Mudbunny board: a few questions.  (Read 899 times)


  • Diode Destroyer
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Hello guys,

I'm trying to plan my new build, which as the title says is a Pharaoh fuzz.

But since i'm a noob in most of this stuff, I'm having troubles to know for sure how I have to mod the normal build.

First the madbean schematic, the things that will differ on the Pharaoh are highlighted.

This is the Pharaoh schematic I'm using as reference.

And then the PCB with the critical points highlighted as well.

Points 1 and 3 are easy enough, no problems there.
The caps on 5 and 6 change from non-polar to polar tantalums, I marked the + side on the pcb, but I'm not sure i got that right...

Finally, regarding regions 2 and 4, the schematics are a little bit different. The diodes and the caps are in different orders, does that make a difference? I'm guessing it makes no difference, but I'm only assuming that because the pharaoh is a muff clone...
The other thing is how to bypass the diodes in region 4 to make the switch mod? I'm fairly confident how to connect the germanium and silicon diodes to the switch, but I have no clue how should I connect that to the board...

I would like to have this stuff sorted out before I begin the build, so any help on confirming would be great.



  • Solder Ninja
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Re: Building a Pharaoh Fuzz on a old Mudbunny board: a few questions.
« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2018, 10:37:45 AM »
For the clipping diodes and cap order, I don't think it makes much of a difference.

I wouldn't worry about using tantalums but it looks like you have them in the right orientation on your diagram if you want to use them.

To do the switching for the diodes in section 4, use a DPDT switch (on-on or on-off-on which bypasses the diodes in the middle position). Solder lug 2 of the switch to one side of D3 (or D4 it doesn't matter which) then solder lug 5 of the switch to the opposite side of that diode. That's how you attach it to the board. I do suggest mounting the diodes to the switch (lugs 1 -> 4 and and 3 -> 6) prior to attaching the leads to the PCB though. You can see how it's laid out here