Envirotex questions for the experienced

[harryklippton]

Hey y'all, I want to try envirotex for the first time but I'm a little scared off by some of the cautions in the instructions. Particularly I'm concerned about setup and curing temps. Seems like if it's too cold, the epoxy becomes cloudy as it cures. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

To clarify: should I be worried about it being too cold for the epoxy to set clearly? My house fluctuates between about 50°F and 85°F because we heat with wood. And I'll be pouring in the garage.

[cooder]

I have never used it myself,but here's a great tutorial:
http://80.229.1.38/stompage/finishing.html

[harryklippton]

Thanks for the link cooder

[jimilee]

I don't foresee any issues. I pour, wait about 15 minutes and then hit it with one of those long lighters to dissipate most of the air bubbles. 72 hours curing time is ideal.


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[cooder]

I don't foresee any issues. I pour, wait about 15 minutes and then hit it with one of those long lighters to dissipate most of the air bubbles. 72 hours curing time is ideal.


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You're talking about extra strong Moonshine there aren't ya...? 

[jimilee]

I don't foresee any issues. I pour, wait about 15 minutes and then hit it with one of those long lighters to dissipate most of the air bubbles. 72 hours curing time is ideal.


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You're talking about extra strong Moonshine there aren't ya...? 

I am In Tennessee.


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[Stomptown]

I've been working with Envirotex for a while now and I've noticed a significant difference during the winter when temperatures fluctuate. It seems like the first 8hrs or so are most critical so I would start early in the day once your house has warmed up. If you have a small heated space, place it there to cure.

-Jon

[jjjimi84]

I agree with everyone else, wait until your house is moderate temperature and after pouring I hit mine with a heat gun on low settings to warm it up and get rid of bubbles.

[m-Kresol]

when I was still in university, I used to cure it at about 60 °C for 30 min. worked like a charm.
as others mentioned, the early phase is most critical and where air bubbles can emerge. Hitting it with a lighter or exhaling on it usually does the trick.
it usually takes one night to dry, but it's still soft. After another day it will be hard. I also suggest drilling/processing it after 3 days.

[PapaKev]

I'm a newcomer to this, so please bare with me.

I've been wondering, and reading a lot about how to finish a pedal. Spray finish, floor polish, epoxy etc.
I have also wondered about using a face plate. However, that seems like the last resort.

I've read about problems about all of the above. Spray finish not durable enough and epoxy air bubbles and running down the sides.

So I tried to think of a new approach, maybe its already been tried, but I haven't seen anything, or possibly it won't for a reason I'm not seeing.

What if you used a silicon mold for for pedal? Press it into the silicone face down. After the form is ready, pour epoxy into the mold. You'd have to pre determine how thick you wanted it to be. I'm thinking 2-3mm. I think bubbles would be easier to remove from the back. Maybe not. Once the epoxy has set and you remove it from the mold, you could easy sand down the edges and then buff to clear. The knobs and switches could hold it in place. You could also drill the epoxy without worrying about lifting decals. What am I missing? Thoughts?

[Stomptown]

I'm a newcomer to this, so please bare with me.

I've been wondering, and reading a lot about how to finish a pedal. Spray finish, floor polish, epoxy etc.
I have also wondered about using a face plate. However, that seems like the last resort.

I've read about problems about all of the above. Spray finish not durable enough and epoxy air bubbles and running down the sides.

So I tried to think of a new approach, maybe its already been tried, but I haven't seen anything, or possibly it won't for a reason I'm not seeing.

What if you used a silicon mold for for pedal? Press it into the silicone face down. After the form is ready, pour epoxy into the mold. You'd have to pre determine how thick you wanted it to be. I'm thinking 2-3mm. I think bubbles would be easier to remove from the back. Maybe not. Once the epoxy has set and you remove it from the mold, you could easy sand down the edges and then buff to clear. The knobs and switches could hold it in place. You could also drill the epoxy without worrying about lifting decals. What am I missing? Thoughts?

I can't imagine that would be easier than pouring Envirotex on top of the enclosure. It's really not as difficult as some make it out to be.  Like anything, there is a learning curve, but I rarely have issues. Just pour way less than you need and use a stirrer stick to tease it out to the edges. Add more as needed.  Lifting decals also shouldn't be an issue if you drill first and plug holes with painters tape before pouring.  Just make sure to use a step bit to drill through epoxy when finished.

[PapaKev]

I can't imagine that would be easier than pouring Envirotex on top of the enclosure. It's really not as difficult as some make it out to be.  Like anything, there is a learning curve, but I rarely have issues. Just pour way less than you need and use a stirrer stick to tease it out to the edges. Add more as needed.  Lifting decals also shouldn't be an issue if you drill first and plug holes with painters tape before pouring.  Just make sure to use a step bit to drill through epoxy when finished.

Can you apply thin coats with a foam brush, or does that create issues?

[jimilee]

I can't imagine that would be easier than pouring Envirotex on top of the enclosure. It's really not as difficult as some make it out to be.  Like anything, there is a learning curve, but I rarely have issues. Just pour way less than you need and use a stirrer stick to tease it out to the edges. Add more as needed.  Lifting decals also shouldn't be an issue if you drill first and plug holes with painters tape before pouring.  Just make sure to use a step bit to drill through epoxy when finished.

Can you apply thin coats with a foam brush, or does that create issues?

I think that would cause issues and end up being way more hassle than the previously mentioned method. I use enviro using the stirrer stick method. The hardest part is waiting the 72 hours for it to be rock solid.


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[PapaKev]

I can’t imagine that would be easier than pouring Envirotex on top of the enclosure. It’s really not as difficult as some make it out to be.  Like anything, there is a learning curve, but I rarely have issues. Just pour way less than you need and use a stirrer stick to tease it out to the edges. Add more as needed.  Lifting decals also shouldn’t be an issue if you drill first and plug holes with painters tape before pouring.  Just make sure to use a step bit to drill through epoxy when finished.

Can you apply thin coats with a foam brush, or does that create issues?

I think that would cause issues and end up being way more hassle than the previously mentioned method. I use enviro using the stirrer stick method. The hardest part is waiting the 72 hours for it to be rock solid.


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I see some of these being done on youtube with epoxy and it has left me nothing but horrified. If you know of someone who does it right, please post a link.  Thanks!

[harryklippton]

After starting this thread, I tried both envirotex and floor polish with some preliminary results in https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32155.msg309036#msg309036 this thread. I'm certain there is a lot of room for me to improve the technique of either, but I didn't find one easier than the other. I also didn't find the smell of the envirotex to be too noxious, which I was worried about doing indoors. I found the envirotex to be glossier and I probably put it on too thick, and the floor polish was really easy to dunk, shake out, wipe the sides, and let it dry. I like the results about the same as clear coat spray paint, which isn't going to work for me in cold weather.